All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Need new tiresThe wheels are cast aluminum with only a 6 lug pattern. The tires are ST 225/70R-15 load range D. The lines I posted above are cast into the back side of the spokes. I have continued looking and have found a chart that references the lower of the 2 tire max weights as load range C @ 50 psi. I have also seen references to the upper weight as load range E @ 80 psi. Is there a reason why they put both on the wheel? Is it a from/to rating? I did go to the local Discount Tire and all that kid could do is punch numbers into a computer. The choices around here for tires are Discount Tire, Wal-Mart and Firestone.Need new tiresNeed to replace the 5 year old tires on my TT and need some advice about upgrading. The trailer is 38 feet and has a GVWR of #9975 and currently has Load Range D tires from the trailer manufacturer. I want to upgrade to Load Range E for a little extra comfort level (no extra weight) but do not know if the rims are suitable for the additional pressure. I pulled a tire and looked on the back of the rim for some sort of psi marking, but nothing that simple to be found. The rim has 5 spokes and these are what what on the spokes: 1) Tire max load #2150 2) Tire max load #2830 3) A960 15x6J 4) 5H-1143 and 6H-1397 5) Made in Taiwan Around the center ring there were several QA stamps and the letters DOT-T ET0 I have tried researching the numbers on the 4th spoke and found nothing related to rims. I am a little confused as to why the rim would have 2 Tire max load markings. Any advice on these rims or do I need to bite the bullet and get some new rims to go with the tires? Thanks in advance KenRe: Big truck woesSince this post has resurfaced, I thought I would take a moment and update. I originally had an EcoBoost F-150 pulling a StarCraft 315RKS (36' 9" box + 2' for tongue). The F-150 had plenty of grunt and brake for the 10K pound trailer, but was blown around by large rigs on the highway. I have just finished my 2nd month with my new F-350 long bed diesel. It is everything my little F-150 wasn't. Yes, I do still feel a little push when the big trucks go by, but NOTHING like what I felt before. And actually, fuel economy has improved. The best the F-150 got in town was 12-13 mpg and 13.5 on the highway with 9.5 with a trailer. The 3.73 rear end on it and the trailer package ensured that it was never going to be a stellar performer. The new F-350 is averaging 13 in town and 15 highway and came down to 11.5 with the trailer so that is very acceptable. BUT the F-350 has so many things the F-150 did not, like REAL trailer mirrors :) All in all, I think the upgrade TV was the way to go, now I need to get out on the road more and prove that it was the right decision. Thanks for all the help. Ken, Marlene Scooter, Pippa & VelcroRe: Big truck woesJust went out this morning and test drove a F-350 with the 6.7 diesel. With the crew cab, it was rated for 14,000# for a conventional pull. If I can just get enough back on the F-150, that would sure make the decision REAL easy. KenRe: Big truck woesTail wagging the dog is a very appropriate description. On a side note, DW has agreed to go out looking at trucks tomorrow :D KenRe: Big truck woes Slate CM wrote: coolbreeze01 wrote: I would suggest a 3500 for your trailer, but then I wouldn't pull a skate board with a 1500. :? Do you mean to say that my truck with 380hp/400torque, 4 piston caliper disc brakes, traction and stability control, c-channel frame, 4.30 gears and 6 speed trans with a 7200 GVWR isn't good for towing anything? :B With the exception of 3.73 gears, you just described my F-150 :) KenRe: Big truck woesThank you all, you have given me plenty to check and research. Just to clear up a few things, it is only the copilot and I, unless you count 4 pawed children (no sand boxes and tree houses). I did run by and check the trailer, and it is 8,679# dry and max 1,296# cargo, so 9,975# max loaded. Little more than I remembered. The Reese hitch that we have does have the friction anti-sway pads in the trailer bracket and the truck does have the anti-sway electronics, though for the record, it does more to scare you into stopping vs doing anything useful. Based on many of the comments here, I am leaning toward working on the DW to convince her that I need a new truck :). I think we would be more comfortable improving the situation with a heavier vehicle rather than patching it and still being underweight. Thanks again KenRe: Big truck woesThe hitch that I have is the #66155 weight distribution hitch (may be off on the exact model as trailer is in storage). The reason I want to get this working properly is that now that we have retired, we want to spend more time on the road. The trailer is ~7600# loaded. Since we are looking at more road time, I had been leaning toward the bigger TV as the solution. If the solution is a heavier truck, does that eliminate the WD hitch? KenBig truck woesI have been reading with interest several of the posts regarding new tow vehicles. I am on the fence about whether to upgrade the TV or update the one I have. I have an existing F150 Ecoboost with the 4x4 option and the trailer towing package. My trailer is an Autumn Ridge (315RKS) 38 footer with a Reese weight distribution hitch. The truck seems to have plenty to be able to tow and stop the trailer. The issues come in when a large truck passes and the trailer and truck seem to get sucked over. I had the dealer adjust the trailer bracket last time I was in to see if it would stop some of the front end "float", and it did. It rides down the road much better, but that has caused significant wear on the top leading edge of the trunion bar. Is the sucking in when being passed something that can be adjusted out, or is this a case where I would be better off with a heavier truck? Or is there a better hitch option for this combo than the Reese? Any guidance on this would be appreciated. Ken
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 21, 202544,029 Posts