Mickeyfan0805
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Re: Ultimate payload monster?
Bedlam wrote: Payload specifications are not realistic. Are you telling me that if you choose a lighter engine, you can load more on an identical rear axle? Axle or wheel rating minus empty rear weight is closer to truth. While I am far from well-versed in such things, I would assume that gross weights do play a role in how things are calculated as well. I know that combined axle weights often exceed the stated gross, so it clearly isn't a 1 to 1 relationship. That said, as an example, a lighter engine would mean less weight being stopped by the brakes, potentially allowing an increase in the stated axle weight. Again, I'm not studied up on how they calculate these, but I can certainly see how a lighter engine could, in fact, allow for a greater rating for the rear axle.395Views0likes0CommentsRe: New vehicle - MSRP?
pasusan wrote: Thanks for the replies! I should have mentioned - we'll probably wait till next summer, just want to get started on the thinking... I guess that's another question - is there a best time of year to buy - like buying this year's model just when the new models come out? I appreciate all the thoughts and advice.:) Good thoughts on here so far - certainly can't compare auto sales to RV mark-ups. It's a totally different world. Different vehicle styles tend to have different mark-ups, so some shopping around online can help give you a better sense of potential prices. As for time of year, yes, there are some better times than others. There are holiday and seasonal sales that can be had, but the least costly option is often at the turn of the model year. Buying a 2022 model year, as the 2023 models are coming out, is often some of the best pricing you will find. You are limited to inventory available to the dealer (local or regional, typically), and your new car will be a model year older than some other new cars, but the price is among the lowest you can find. Whether that trade-off is worth it is up to you.305Views0likes0CommentsRe: US 23 Frankenmuth to Ohio
As others have said, no issues. Watch your route through Ann Arbor so you stay on 23, and watch your timing so you avoid the traffic. Can't recall about rest stops, but the service plazas once you get on the OH turnpike are very easy and accessible.367Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tires and their pressures
schlep1967 wrote: The door sticker only applies to the original tires that were on your truck. If you replace them with the exact same tires that door sticker will still apply. If you replace them with anything else go by the tire or the load/pressure table provided by that tire manufacturer. This is the key. If you want to go by charts and precise weights, that's fine. If not, max pressure as listed on the TIRE is what you should run while towing. The stickers are meaningless once the OEM tires are off the truck.609Views0likes0CommentsRe: Roadside Assistance
jimh425 wrote: MarkTwain wrote: AAA does not offer good roadside assistance for RVs. What’s your beef with it? Btw, it also covers my vehicles including motorcycles. I also get AAA discounts at places like hotels and car rentals, and of course, maps. When I was searching a few years back, I found a note in their details saying that towing coverage was for trailers under a certain length (I think it was 30'). I couldn't get a good answer on whether or not they would cover mine at 35', so I went another route. None of these make their policy details easy to find.693Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hitch Selection - TW Questions
Boomerweps wrote: Baja Man wrote: Based on one of the responses... Does weight in truck bed need to be considered when selecting a WDH? Ex. TW is 900# and truck bed has 500#....hitch and bars need a 1400# rating? Chains vs solid bars? Short answer. NO. By that logic, you’d have to add all weight in the TV, people, etc. The WDH is sized by the trailer towed. WDH weight gets added to truck payload and rear axle load. In the example above, you would get the next size up available, like a 1000# rated or even a a 1200# rated, depending on your choice of WDH sizes. I use 400-600# rated bars, next sizes are 600-800 & 800-1200, interchangeable on my hitch head. I could use the 600-800# bars now, depending on my TT loading for tongue weight, but I’m trying to keep the TW within my WDH specs. I am NOT an expert by any stretch in these things, which is why I go by what the manufacturer states. That said, cargo in front of the rear axle does not lift the front axle, it lowers it - so passengers and cargo in front of that point are not included in the numbers. That is why this impact is limited solely to gear and passengers behind the rear axle. If you use the Equal-i-zer guide to select your hitch size (see here) they clearly include this in their recommendation. An 1,100 pound HW with nothing in the bed calls for a 1,200 pound hitch. An 1,100 pound HW with 200 pounds behind the rear axle calls for a 1,400 pound hitch. Everyone goes by their own judgements on how to set-up their rigs, but it is black and white that at least some hitch manufacturers DO included cargo weight behind the rear axle in their recommended calculations.471Views0likes0CommentsRe: Truck - family of 5 and 65lb dog
Since you asked, 'What do you do?' I will tell you what we do. We had an HD Suburban with the 8.1L that served us beautifully for quite some time when the kids were little. All three kids and the dog (90-100 pounds) had plenty of space, and it handled our 35' trailer with ease. After being stranded on the road multiple times in the summer of 2019, we had to throw in the towel and give it up. So... Facing the same decision as you, our choice was to move to a pick-up and limit how often the dog travels with us. Any of our in-state/weekend trips include two vehicles. I head up early to set up and DW brings the kids and the dog a few hours later. Our longer duration trips (typically 1-2 per year) have the dog staying home with a sitter. For us, this option seems to be working. Our longer trips tend to have us 'out and about' a lot, meaning the dog would be left alone in the camper. In these cases, he's better at home. For our shorter trips, taking two cars is beneficial as our kids are older and sometimes we need to vary our arrival and departure times. It's not perfect, but it works for us.279Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hitch Selection - TW Questions
Baja Man wrote: Based on one of the responses... Does weight in truck bed need to be considered when selecting a WDH? Ex. TW is 900# and truck bed has 500#....hitch and bars need a 1400# rating? Can't speak for all hitches, but Equal-i-zer specifically includes any cargo behind the rear axle in the calculations for hitch size.471Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hitch Selection - TW Questions
I agree with rexilon. With that GVWR, even a 15% hitch weight would be under 1,200 pounds. That would likely be my target. The only caveat would be gear in the bed. If you are heavily loading your bed, that does come into the equation and might change the need.78Views0likes0CommentsRe: Still very tempting to buy my totaled TT back
I think this has a whole lot to do with your knowledge base and readiness to repair. Yes, it seems 'useable' to you, but what do you really know? Do you have the capacity to know if the frame and axle are still true? Was the hitch-head bent or warped in any way during the accident? How many internal components on the appliances are loose that will fail once it spends some time on the road? Are the cracks in some of the walls that will lead to delamination problems once the stress of travel is exerted on them? This list goes on and, for me, is the reason I would not take on a trailer that had been in a severe accident. I'm pretty good with the DIY stuff, but many of these are simply beyond my ability to predict based on a simple walkthrough of the camper. If you feel you can judge it properly and want to do the work - go for it. For me, the unknowns would simply be too significant.119Views0likes0Comments
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