All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Considering move from class A to C IAMICHABOD wrote: TechWriter wrote: IAMICHABOD wrote: I would suggest that you look into one on a Chevy Chassis there you will have none of the heat problems from the doghouse,a larger cockpit area,better handling, and a much smoother riding RV. Why Chevy? What's the matter with a Ford engine/chassis? If you read THE CLICKY it pretty much spells it out.:S That's a old thread.. I have a 2021 Ford E-350 Super Duty with the 7.3 and zero heat from the doghouse.. I also own many work vans for my business and Chevy and Ford has near the same leg room.. The new Ford E-350 Super Duty has good leg room and the best V-8 ever made, Godzilla 7.3LRe: Considering move from class A to C ezgoin wrote: Hi all, Senior citizen here. I’ve been considering moving to a class C (from class A) thinking it may be easier and more comfortable to drive. However, after reading some of the threads regarding the heat issue around the dog house, I’m not sure I need more heat. (I live in Arizona.) Is the heat and noise issue as considerable as some mention? Having never driven a class C, I assumed the driving would be less stressful, but now I’m starting to rethink the idea. Have any of you made the move I’m considering? Thanks, Bill Maybe the older class C have the heat issue but I have a new 2021 class B+/C with the 7.3 and there is zero heat from the doghouse and the motor is very quiet.. Stays cool around the doghouse even here in Las Vegas heat.. I am now getting 11.5 mpg average.Re: Anyone have the new Ford 7.3L V8? SHRED wrote: My new 2021 E-450 chassis motorhome will come equipped with it and the 6 speed transmission. Just curious how it compares to the Triton V10. I just sold my 1995 class C with the old 460 workhorse. It was a great engine. I got a new 2021 BT Cruiser with the 2021 Ford E-350 chassis and so far I love the new 7.3L V-8 and 6 speed transmission.. It runs in low RPM's and hardly ever goes below 5th gear at highway speeds, stays in 6th gear 90 percent of the time at 62 mph. So far my average mpg is 10+ and can get 12-13 mpg at 60 mph with cruise control on.. mpg reading is on the dash displayRe: Gulfstream BT Cruiser Quality ron.dittmer wrote: timmac wrote: Well just checked my 08 Bounder wall specs and it to is mounted on the outside on a wall hanger, after 12 years and 52,000 miles its still in great shape and zero issues, Fleetwood says its to reduce squeaks from the wall to floor. That makes no sense to me, but it must be working because many manufactures do it. It is good to read that you have no issues. BTW: Our Phoenix Cruiser 2350 with the walls resting on the floor, is 13 years old and we have no squeaks either. It's been a very "tight" rig. I imagine it helps that the house is smaller than most in over-all height and width. Any box made with the same exact materials will be stronger when made smaller. A softer riding suspension should also help. I am not sure why some mount the wall on outside vs on the floor, maybe to make the rv wider inside without making the floor and frame under floor wider to save money.. As to Fleetwood saying so the floor wont squeak on wall if mounted outside I would have to say everything else squeaks and rattles so I don't really know..Re: Gulfstream BT Cruiser Quality ron.dittmer wrote: Over-all it appears to be a nicely constructed rig....with one exception. The walls do not rest on the floor. They are bolted against the side of it. This means the weight of the walls, roof, and everything attached to them, are resting on the fasteners. You can see the practice in the framing picture. I have heard of manufactures building that way, but never understood the logic behind it. Well just checked my 08 Bounder wall specs and it to is mounted on the outside on a wall hanger, after 12 years and 52,000 miles its still in great shape and zero issues, Fleetwood says its to reduce squeaks from the wall to floor. https://recreationalvehicles.info/2008-fleetwood-bounder/#lg=1&slide=9Re: What the ?? valhalla360 wrote: timmac wrote: I am planning on downsizing my class A to a B+ rv under 25 foot, was also looking at new trucks and a camper as a 2nd option, so with the price of a new F-250 to F-350 and a new camper with a slideout it would cost almost the same price as a new small class A motorhome, {$100,000+} The BT cruiser class B+ new starts at $72,000 and has twice the room of most campers.. How in the world does the truck camper makers stay in business with these high prices.. :h Truck campers are specialty tools. And many don't stay in business, they make up a tiny percentage of the RV market. If you look at all the parts, they are cramming all the same parts into a smaller package. The box itself is a small part of the cost of an RV. Now to your comparison...I question the comparison of costs you made (I'm using new prices as used prices have to many variables but like for like should follow a similar pattern): - Class B+ may be $72k but you presumably have a separate car. Average new car price is $35k...let's say you downsize a bit and go $28k...that gives us a baseline of $100k for the motorhome option. Even if you say you aren't going to pull a toad, you still need a car for at home (A $100k class A would be $128k with toad) - Travel Trailer: A 25ft B+ is going to have interior space roughly equivalent to a 20-23ft travel trailer and could easily be pulled by a 1/2 ton truck. It's no where close to the level of needing a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. We just bought a new 28ft trailer for $18k out the door...saw some smaller ones that we could have got for $15k. Add $35-40k for a 1/2 ton truck to pull it and you are around $50-55k and the truck can be your daily driver. Yes, it will use a little more gas but it will take many years to make up the $45-50k in up front savings. - Truck campers really are a tough nut unless you need a tool that does what a truck camper does. Even the biggest will have a smaller living quarters and less storage than the other two options. Due to the weight unless you go incredibly tiny, you are at least into a 3/4 ton but more likely in 1 ton truck territory. On the positive side, unless you are pulling a trailer behind it, not much point in upgrading to the diesel...in fact diesel hurts as it eats up payload. So $60k for a truck plus say $40k for a modest truck camper and you are at the Class B+ price. You don't need a toad as you can use the truck for running around. So why would someone go truck camper? - They like to go offroad camping. Short of dedicated expedition vehicles, the others won't do nearly as well once you get away from the paved roads. Sure you can creep down a dirt road with most RVs but once things get rough, most people won't want to take their RV any further while truck campers may be happy to keep going. - If you want to tow something like a boat. Double towing with a travel trailer is illegal in most states (5th wheels are more doable). With a MH, you have the choice of toad or toy. There are probably a couple other use cases that could be argued but it's mostly a specialty tool. Yes when you add in the tow car it does cost more than a new truck/camper if the truck and camper are not the high end, something to consider on my decision, not a fan of crawling in bed and getting up and down at night, I have owned a truck camper many years ago and they are far better today than they were 30 years ago.. Plus insurance would be less.Re: What the ?? KansasKen wrote: versatility, truck can be used during the 85% of the time campers never leave home. ? in my mind is how average worker can afford a new f350. Yep I haven't bought a full size truck for sometime now, I did buy a 4 cly 2018 Tacoma for under $24,000 but just went looking and new F-250 and F-350 and cant believe the price they want for them now, and than looked at new camper prices with just one slideout and was also shocked.. I can see why class C's and A's are selling like hot cakes compared to a new truck with a new camper...What the ??I am planning on downsizing my class A to a B+ rv under 25 foot, was also looking at new trucks and a camper as a 2nd option, so with the price of a new F-250 to F-350 and a new camper with a slideout it would cost almost the same price as a new small class A motorhome, {$100,000+} The BT cruiser class B+ new starts at $72,000 and has twice the room of most campers.. How in the world does the truck camper makers stay in business with these high prices.. :hRe: Friend is looking to get into rv.. check this site out ??I did a google map of their location and no way is there motorhomes parked in their lot and the building is not tall enough, also look at the background of the RV's and autos for sale, they are all filmed in different locations, they also say they have live auctions over the phone.. The prices on the RV's are 20 cents on the dollar and they all are in excellence condition, something tells me its a fraud..Re: Gulfstream BT Cruiser Quality Gjac wrote: I was interested in these also. I will be following your thread. I could not find WB or any weight ratings on their web site. FW is only 33 gals on the 5240 but 41 gals on the 5210. Like the low profile, front and rear caps, 7.3 engine, smaller doghouse and 7500 tow capacity. Like to know the OCC. Looks a lot better on paper than the sprinters. Have you test drove any yet? No there is no dealer here in Vegas that sells the BT cruiser, have never been in one, I have to drive over 300 miles just to go see one in person. The 33 gals is small but found out most class B+ have a small water tanks, I could easy install another tank under the RV or carry some water tanks on a cargo carrier on back when dry camping beyond 3 days. Most class B+ are about $100,000 or more, the BT cruiser seems far better price and its on the V-8 ford van chassis vs the V-6, its better to have extra HP in the mountains.. I was on anther forum and its hard to find any owners with the BT cruiser and if its worth the money before I make a 2 day trip just to walk in one..
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