IllinoisCheeseh
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Re: Winterizing the Black Tank Flusher
shadows4 wrote: IllinoisCheesehead wrote: I hook up a blowout plug and compressor to the black tank flush input and blow it out, same as I do to blow out the regular water lines. I don't pump in any anti-freeze to the tank flush. So far so good. X2 I also pump the pink stuff after I have blown the lines. But I don't put any of the pink stuff in the BTF line. Yep, same here. I do pump the pink stuff into the rest of the water lines, just not the BTF. It gets too cold here in WI/IL to go without the pink stuff, although I do recall reading of a guy who lives around Chicago who says he just blows out the lines, uses no pink stuff and never had an issue. I'm not that big of a gambler. I'll keep using the pink stuff.357Views0likes0CommentsRe: New truck...RAM
stro1965 wrote: I can tell you already that my Ford 6.7 FELT more powerful, it really put you back in the seat when you stepped on it hard. But mine had 3.73 gearing, whereas the Ram has 3.42. I thought, during the test drive(s) that the Ram was much more refined and smoother feeling. One thing I'm very curious about is fuel mileage. I was averaging about 16 mpg in the Ford just daily use, about 10 pulling. I'm hoping the Ram does that well! I think what you're feeling is maybe the torque management on the RAM. It took me awhile to get used to, but you'll probably be glad you have it if on slick pavement. I came from a Ford F-350 6.0 SRW to the RAM 3500 DRW and in comparison, accelerating from a stop the RAM seems slower to get going. But once you hit 3rd, 4th, 5th the RAM will keep accelerating and never look back.340Views0likes0CommentsRe: Extended Warranty
Extended warranties are a bit of a gamble. In general, I usually don't get them on anything. Did not get one on our last trailer and never needed it. Did get one on the used diesel F-350 I bought and was glad I had. Saved me over $4k in repair charges. Paid for itself and then some. Took the extended warranty on the new diesel because of experience with previous truck and knowing how expensive diesels are to repair. I do not plan to take it on the new fiver, but do plan to buy the extra 1 year manufacturer's warranty that Forest River offers for $150. After that, I'm gambling that I can fix/replace most things myself that might go wrong and come out ahead.370Views0likes0CommentsRe: Question
goducks10 wrote: Apparently you're in the minority since twice as many 3/4 tons are sold each year as 1-tons. Right...and 4X as many F-150's are sold over F-250 and F-350's combined each year. So I guess by your logic, I should have bought a 1/2 ton to tow a 16,000 pound fifth wheel.477Views0likes0CommentsRe: Question
Racine96 wrote: If youtell me where to find a 3500 for $1000 more than a 2500, I would like to see it. Where I live is more aroun $6000. So there is a difference, specially when moving from a gasser to a diesel there ia an additional $8000. I do not have all the money in the world.. Yes, if you're comparing a gasser to a diesel. But if you compare a 2500 diesel to 3500 diesel, you are within about $1000 to $1500 from one to other when equipped the same. (The same pretty much holds true for gassers, too.) Go to Ram's site, Edmunds, or any other comparison site. Configure a 2500, then configure a 3500 the same way. Within $1000 to $1500 of each other if you're comparing apples to apples. 2014 Ram 3500 SLT CCLB 4X4 DRW 6.7 CTD - $50,695 MSRP, Max payload 5752 lbs, Max towing 18,600 lbs. 2014 Ram 2500 SLT CCLB 4X4 SRW 6.7 CTD - $49,850 MSRP, Max payload 2149 lbs, max towing 16,950 lbs. A difference of $845, and about 3600 lbs more of payload capacity.477Views0likes0CommentsRe: A few Dodge questions
parkersdad wrote: If you're looking mid 30s why not buy brand-new truck. I bought my 2013 crew cab for 36,000. You have to wait until there are incentives but they will come down. Mine is just a tradesman model though. Agreed. I started out looking at used 2012 - 2013 diesels, primarily F-350's and Ram 3500's. I was shocked at how much dealers were asking for 1 and 2 year old diesels with 25k - 50k miles on them already. With a little effort and a willingness to drive a few hours, I was able to negotiate a brand new 2014 down to within a $1000 of what some used ones were going for. Plus having had some issues with the last used diesel I bought, I was leery of buying used again. If you don't know the history of the diesel you're buying, how it was treated and maintained, it's a gamble. Even if it checks out ok initially, you might discover some issues when you put it under the load of towing (as I found.) I'd be much less leery buying a used gasser. My best advice for buying a used diesel: get an extended warranty if the factory warranty is up. It saved me about $4k on repairs to my '05 F-350.266Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dually forever
When it was time to buy a new TV to pull our new fiver, there was no question it would be DRW. If there's anything I've learned over the years, life's a whole lot easier when you have the right tool for the job. And, if single wheels are just as stable, there are a lot 18 wheelers out there with at least 8 more tires than they need... :p368Views0likes0CommentsRe: diesel fuel question
I will not burn bio unless it's an absolute emergency. I routinely drive about 60 miles round trip to a Mobil in Kenosha, WI that sells true #2 pre-mixed with Power Service. They move a ton of fuel so it's always fresh. Never had a problem. In NE Illinois, you can't find anything but bio, and I've seen nothing that tells me whether it's B5 or B20, other than a sticker that says may contain "up to 20%" bio. I ran some winterized bio in my old Ford this past winter and paid the price -- 2 sets of waxed up fuel filters and 3 new injectors. There will be no bio going in my new truck next winter, that's for sure.284Views0likes0Comments
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