wayfun
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Re: Is anyone towing with a Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton 3.0L Diesel?
Thanks for the comments. I am well aware of the 6.2’s performance. The one I have now is my third one. I’m considering the diesel because of the torque at a lower rpm. If you look at the torque and HP curves vs RPM the diesel beats the 6.2 in torque and is very equivalent in hp in the lower rpm ranges. For the 6.2 to shine you need to be above 3000 to 3500 rpm. With the 10 speed transmission I would expect the diesel to stay on its torque curve. Just hoped to hear from someone with experience.843Views0likes0CommentsRe: Is anyone towing with a Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton 3.0L Diesel?
KD4UPL wrote: You rarely pull at an RPM higher than 2500? You must have a really light trailer, live where there are no mountains, or just like lugging the engine to death. I was pulling about 5000 lbs through the mountains of TN in tow/haul mode with the cruise set on 60 and let the 8 speed do the work. It would occasionally drop 5th gear at 2700 rpm. Most of the time it was in 6th gear at 2200 rpm.198Views0likes0CommentsIs anyone towing with a Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton 3.0L Diesel?
I'm starting to think about my next tow vehicle. I currently pull with a GMC Yukon Denali with the 6.2L V8. They will soon put the 3.0L diesel in the Yukon. The peak torque on both engines is the same except the diesel gets there at 1500 rpm and the 6.2 at 4100 rpm. I never pull at that rpm. Rarely over 2500 rpm. I would like to hear some real world experiences towing a 5,000 to 6,000 lb trailer with the little diesel. Is it up to the task? Thanks5.9KViews0likes20CommentsFlagstaff Micro-lite/ Rockwood Mini-lite experiences
We’ve decided to get back into a small light weight trailer and like features of the Flaggstaff Micro-lite 21FBRS or the Rockwood Mini-lite 2109S. I know they are the same trailer. Are there any known problems with those lines of trailers? Anything I should be concerned about? Dennis1.8KViews0likes3CommentsRe: Is a 13,000 BTU AC enough for a 22' trailer?
Thanks for the replies. Our last unit was a 36' trailer with dual AC units and 50 amp service. On really hot days we would use both units for the hottest part of the day. We do like to keep it cool, especially to sleep. I was hoping that a 22' unit could get by with a 13k unit. Thanks, Dennis446Views0likes0CommentsRe: Replacing the kitchen faucet - anyone done that?
gkainz wrote: I don't understand the shutoff valves inline ... unless I'm really missing something obvious? My water pump switch is only 3 steps away from the sink? The reason I put disconnects on the lines is because as a residential faucet, the unit came with long connection lines on it. So I had to shorten the pex tubing to meet up with the faucet lines. Also, the lines on the faucet required male threaded connection. This is the connection that I used. http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Push-to-Connect-x-3-8-in-O-D-Compression-Quarter-Turn-Straight-Stop-Valve-23037-0000LF/202270613 This was my first experience with Sharkbite fittings. They are very easy to use. I check them every couple of days and they have not leaked at all.1.9KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Replacing the kitchen faucet - anyone done that?
I finally did upgrade my kitchen faucet. Very easy to do. I picked up a faucet at Walmart. To make the connection under the sink I cut the supply lines and installed shut offs on each line using Sharkbite connectors. Very simple. The Faucet we bought came with a soap dispenser and since I had a plastic sink, I drilled another hole and mounted the soap dispenser. Now we don't have to keep a soap bottle on the counter.195Views0likes0Comments
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