All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 2015 3500 RamI have a 2015 RAM SRW with a 3.42 axle that pulls a 14k pound trailer. We pulled through Colorado up the Brekenridge pass at 11500 feet with switchbacks without any problems at all. The only thing noticeable was the engine/transmission temps increasing 10 degrees staying well below the max limit. When not towing we get great mileage. The 3.42 should be fine.Re: Furnace problemsAnd after posting my last post, I was informed that he just used a rig system to realign the Thermocouple into the flame. So there you have it, Old Biscuit nailed it. Thanks guys!Re: Furnace problemsA quick update. Thanks to all that posted, And especially Newman for the phone help. Apparently Atwood is having a lot of teething problems on their new heater design. Mine was a gas valve problem. I had three different RV professionals look at my RV, called and talked to Atwood 3 different times and the RV techs called as well and every time Atwood was called, we got a different answer! I removed the heater myself and took it to Camping world where the technician had just gone to Heater refresher school. He had it working in 5 minutes. The hardest part was connecting the wires to supply power. All he did was bend the gas valve to provide proper gas flow to the unit.Re: Furnace problemsIt's not the regulator, we already had that replaced and now the buddy heater works downline of the furnace. I read another article on the sail switch. I need to go and reread it. Would that work if it was on a bench and then not work if it was in the rv for some reason? Like If the exhaust ducting was not aligned properly?Furnace problemsMy furnace has never worked since I bought it new. so far we have spent over $750 to get it working and it has been reimbursed by the manufacturer, but I doubt they will offer to spend much more. We have had it serviced by three different technicians and I want to try to get it fixed so I can heat the holding tanks...every time I call Atwood they say to "do this" without hearing all the details and so their just guessing. So here goes. It's an Atwood AFMD35 heater without the exterior door. The fan works normal and you can hear ignition but the flame goes out 2-50 seconds after ignition every time. It will relight after a few seconds and the process repeats. The ignition cycle never times out. It will continue to light and flame out indefinitely. Circuit board has been replaced. The propane line works well, as I have a buddy heater downline of the furnace propane supply and it works fine. (I don't use the buddy heater when trying to get the furnace lit.) When the furnace was bench tested, it worked fine. When it was reinstalled, he put aluminum tape around the ducting insert into the furnace (at Atwoods suggestion) and it would stay lit on the second or third attempt. But has never been reliable at sea level altitudes. And won't start at all at 7000ft. I suspect a intake/exhaust ducting problem. I just don't know where to start. It just seems like it can never get enough air. Any ideas?Re: Tire flat spot Brockinfla wrote: You didn't burn all that tread off from one single braking event. That wheel is hanging up more then you know about. If you put a new tire on without figuring out what's going on you're just going to burn up the new tire. Could be, but there is only one spot on the whole tire with a flat spot and it's a big one. We heard it when it was skidding and it lasted probably 5 long seconds until i reduced the gain. We had to get stopped. Is that normal that there is usually one spot on the tire with a flat spot? I will pull the hub and check it out. Reduce the brake by 3 clicks as suggested and let you know what I find. One last question; Is trailer braking all or nothing when applied or proportional with vehicle braking? It is a factory brake controller. When braking on this incident, the brake application was not that much.Re: Tire flat spot JIMNLIN wrote: Sure.... but keep in mind the one tire has a different tread pattern and can have different traction during hard braking events especially on wet pavement. I would find the reason why just one tire had the flat spot. Chancer are it will flat spot again. Generally flat spotting occurs on a tire on the front axle from braking rotational forces of the rear axle through the equalizer bar which tends to lift the front axle a bit. Yep, it is the front right axle. I would guess the front left one didn't lift because the fridge, pantry and everything heavy is on the left side of the trailer including 3 slides. I'm sure the adjustments were the same for all of the brakes as far as the ability of the tire to turn approx 1 rotation when adjusted. The trailer is 4 wheel drum brakes. When the incident occurred, only light bakes were being applied via the brake pedal on damp pavement. The brake controller was adjusted for a wet road. Are there any other ideas on why this would have happened then on just one wheel? Thanks for everyone's responses so far. I would like to keep this from happening again:-)Tire flat spotLooking for some quick advice. We're on a trip and I just noticed at a gas stop we have a large flat spot on one of our 5th wheel tires. I heard the tires squeal when we were stopping, and tried to turn down the gain on the brake controller but it didn't quit soon enough. I did a gain/brake check when we left home because I had just tightened the brakes but the damage is done... There is no tread at all where the flat spot is but no tire cord showing. We are in Amarillo tonight and I have time to have it changed. Currently the factory Rv trailer tires are installed. My question is: Can I replace the bad tire with a different brand of truck tire? And leave all the rest the same. The others have 6000 miles on them and are one year old. If not can I just change the other tire on the same axle. Or do you have to have all four the same brand of tire on the trailer. If they all need to be the same,where do I find a Rv trailer tire because It's not in my budget to change all 4 right now. Awaiting your insight. Thanks!Re: Bunkhouse Fifth Wheel recommendationsI'll add, we wanted the living room windows on the Right hand side of the RV so we could watch the kids from inside if we needed a break from them. Most RV manufacturers don't do this and I don't know why. But the Windows on the right side was mandatory for us to watch the kids. It's also nice to talk to friends or guests when cooking from inside by not isolating the person inside by a wall.Re: Bunkhouse Fifth Wheel recommendationsFWIW, we home school in a Grand Design 323BHS with 3 kids for 4-6 months at a time + a 65lb dog. (We enjoy taking breaks for the kids to come back and visit their friends.). I don't know if your just starting out, but we love the outdoor kitchen. It is used a lot more than I thought we would use it, and people are always commenting on "how they wish they had one but you need a bunkhouse!" Tons of storage, so everything is in its place. just don't overload it and exceed the weight ratings. We use storage in the rear kitchen for extra TP and paper towels and such so were never needing them. The rear bunkhouse has a lot of drawers for the kids clothes which was hard to find (I don't know where kids put their clothes on a lot of other bunkhouse models)? We took out the couch in the BH and use that area for extra storage/clothes/shoes. Has a large pantry which was mandatory for us, so we don't go broke feeding a family of 5 3 meals a day. Definitely need a 1 ton truck. Good luck!
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