All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Fire in the 12VDC systemI have just had a similar problem rectified, after struggling for about a month to try and resolve it. It starter with the 30A fuse (that is between the battery and junction box) blowing when we tried to camp without power. When we got back on power, everything worked. Then eventually nothing worked, plugged in or not. We tugged, poked, prodded, wrapped things in electrical tape, took things apart, put them back together, priced out converters.... tried it all! Finally took it to service department as some troubleshooting suggested by a member here, pointed to a short in the 4' section of wire we couldn't see - from junction box to disconnect switch, it runs in the floor void. In the end, that was the issue! The wire was pinched between floor and frame. For seven years (I bought this new in 2010) it has been wearing away and just now causing issues. So glad we solved it but it'd sure be nice if they were just built properly to start with.Re: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerI am extremely happy to say the problem seems to be fixed!! :) Service guys found that there was a wire pinched in the section we were wondering about - running from the junction box to the disconnect switch - pinched between floor and frame. This part is in the void of the floor and not accessible unless you start cutting the underbelly open. Has been chafing for 7 years and just started causing issues. I guess I've been lucky, So that is fixed. Power tongue jack motor died while I was trying to leave and I switched it out with a manual one. And now I it is back up for sale. Thanks everyone for your suggestions, comments, advice and help! Wow are electrical issues ever frustrating. X-ray specs would help LOLRe: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no power wnjj wrote: Was the disconnect switch in "connected" mode when you blew that last fuse? To further narrow it down, first try with it in "disconnected" mode. Then you will know if it's the wire from the battery to the switch or from the switch to the panel, or maybe even the switch itself (if it's mounted to something grounded). If there's a short on your battery cable, it will pull the whole 12V system down and/or blow fuses in the 120V to 12V converter so fixing problem 1 will probably fix both. When I put fuse in, battery switch was disconnected. No problem there - all was good. As I pulled the switch out (to connect battery) I heard it pop. Does that mean it's wire from battery to switch? Thanks wnjj for your help!!Re: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerAs suggested by wnjj: - buy a pack of fuses (any size up to 30A) and hook the battery positive back up. If the wire is shorted, the fuse should blow when you connect the switch, even with the positive disconnected from the converter. Bought 25 fuse pack since the trailer eats them 6 a day...(30amps) Disconnected psitive wire from panel, put fuse in, connected battery at switch and fuse popped. So problem #1 - definitely still a short. Thought we'd fixed it, darn it. Problem #2 - plug in to shore power and only 110 stuff works. Outlets are all that runs. Manually cranking up power stabilizers is the pits. Maybe solving prob number 1 will improve prob number 2? I sure hope so...Re: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerWe can see the wires to the switch behind a drawer, but only about 6" of it. They look ok but that wire passes through the void under the floor of the trailer and you can't see about 4' of it. The service department tomorrow are going to pull that and run new wire. Could be chafed or pinched there... we shall see!Re: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerThanks shastagary for the tips, I'm just sad they didn't work in this case. We were excited last night when something we did seemed to have made a difference. Wnjj - I will try what you have suggested. I am hauling trailer to service department Thursday morning and boyfriend is busy in the Combine again for #harvest17 so hopefully I can figure it out on my own. The service department thought possibly something wrong in the void of the floor so we shall see! It all just guesses.Re: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerPulled all fuses and put 30A back in near battery. Connected battery at switch and 30A blew. Still a short somewhere I guess. RV sercice guy thinks possibly the wire from junction after battery to disconnect switch. It's the only chunk of wire we can't access as it is in the void under the floor.Re: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerWFCO Converter model WF-8955PEC, panel input 30A. We crawled around and found no worn wires but wrapped electrical tape on brackets and wires anyway and there did seem to be a short somewhere as this stopped the 30amp fuse from blowing immediately - which it did do before taping stuff. And when connected on Shore power everything was working again ( battery positive wire was disconnected from converter). There are no other circuit protections between fuse after battery and panel. So then we were able to check the output (as suggested above) and it was 13.6VDC, just like the panel says. We disconnected AC, reconnected +ve wire to converter and pulled battery connect switch and fuse blew. Does that sound like converter going kaput? My experience of them going is nil as this is my first and only ever trailer and after seven years, this is first experience of bad power issues and mysteries. Thank you all for your suggestions! We feel like we eliminated one or two things tonight. But I did lose the back off an earring. ;)Re: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerThanks everyone for the responses. I do have a battery disconnect switch so when it is parked at home the battery is off. So the last time I was in there the battery was 2/3rds. Battery is 2 years old. Normally it holds the charge for a few weeks if disconnected. I don't think we have killed it, but that's why we tried a different one. Although, when we replaced the fuse on the 2nd battery I can't recall if I had disconnected shore power... I will spend more time looking for problems on the positive wire, tracing it back to the converter. I found a few small wear areas already on other wires, but not this main one. The hunt for a short continues... :hRe: Blown 30 amp battery fuse and no powerIt worked without issue for five trips this year, before these issues and has been connected in the same way for seven years (I remove the battery in the winter). I have labelled wires and put a label on the battery about connection order (from info I copied off here) so I am very confident it is connected correctly. Boyfriend is a mechanic and he has verified this also. The positive wire has the fuse and it is connected to the positive post.
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts