All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Replacing Water Heater Bypass Valve SCClockDr wrote: Is the valve that failed a 3 way or open/closed? It’s a plastic bodied 3 way. One valve to bybass the heater, instead of two like the ones that mount right at the tank. I did figure out I can get to tank mounted valves from inside, if I go that way, which would be cheaper. I just have to figure out how to plumb the 3 way valve out of the system. Next spring though. It’s in storage, and I headed to Florida.Re: Replacing Water Heater Bypass ValveMaybe I didn’t note it clearly. My bypass valve isn’t located at the water heater. It’s a remote valve located in the docking station in the basement, ten feet away from the water heater. If the valve was on the water heater, I couldn’t get to it to use it, without tearing out the water heater every time I winterize. Or tearing out it cabinets on the inside of the trailer. And if by some way I could use the valves at the water heater, I’d have to replumb the existing valve out of the system.Re: Replacing Water Heater Bypass ValveThe purpose of the valve is to not have to fill the water heater with twelve gallons of antifreeze. I was just putting a little in, to make sure the lines from the valve to the tank had antifreeze.Replacing Water Heater Bypass ValveOur trailer has a B&B remote bypass valve. As I was winterizing today, I went to switch back to normal mode to allow some antifreeze into the heater tank, and the handle broke off inside the valve, popping it apart and squirting from pump pressure. So now I need to replace the valve, and for a cheap plastic valve, the best price I found is $57. Then it looks like the Pex tubing is crimped right to the valve, and it doesn’t have screw on fittings. I’d replace this valve with a cheaper bypass, but I don’t really have access to the back of the water heater to switch the valves. And I’d have to replumb a fair amount to take the existing valve out of the system, and I can’t really access that pluming. Has anyone replaced this valve, and if so, can you shed some light on what’s involved to replace it? MarkRe: Artic Fox 29.5T 2018I just looked on their web site, and there is a dealer just east of Cincinnati. I didn't see the model you are looking for in their inventory, but they do list 2018 models as on order. You might contact them. I think I'll check them out, I'm in Ohio, and didn't know there was a dealer here. http://www.mikejonesmotors.com MarkRe: 2nd AC unitWhen I did this to ours, there was a sticker on the junction box cover where the new AC was going, listing max amperage. So I had to stay under that. I put a 13.5k unit in, and that is big enough. MarkRe: Too Tall ? High5er wrote: I purchased an excellent app called lowclearances.com and I use it all the time to plot my courses. I believe the app is constantly updated from a network of truckers, RV'rs etc.. :B Is this a "Point of Interest" file that loads into your GPS? I'm fortunate enough to have a cement floored barn. I can pull my 5er under the door frame. I measured from the ground to the door frame, then from the frame down to the high point of the trailer, and subtract. Very precise. MarkRe: One way to do it....I've not seen this before, and I've been on here six years. Quit giving him a hard time. I have seen the VW one though.Re: Ram question 3500 mtofell1 wrote: One annoyance every time this comes up is the "just go by the trailer's GVWR" crowd. Honestly, that's crappy advice. A trailer's GVWR is determined by what a trailer "could" carry not what you will put in it. Take the dry weight and account for what you are going to put in it. Also, realize the dry weight may be without batteries, propane tanks and definitely is without water. A very true statement. When we ordered our trailer, we upgraded the axles from 5000# to 6000#. This added a lot to the GVWR, without adding much to the dry weight of the trailer. We can carry 3600# of cargo, but at the last scale weighing, we were only carrying 1800# of cargo. Know your numbers. It can all be very confusing. Even with the lower cargo weight of the trailer at the scales, my 2007 one ton dually was just 200# under GVWR. The truck had a lot in the bed though, so it was carrying extra cargo (firewood, bikes, hammocks, tools, pallet step). MarkRe: Noob water heater fill question. DCamp84 wrote: corvettekent wrote: I would think that you need a hot water faucet turned on to let the air out of the tank. I have been leaving the pressure relief valve on the wh open untill water starts flowing out. That is how I have been gauging its full so I can turn the heater on. I do this to get air out of the tank, then I open the faucets to get air out of the lines. I don't drain water between outings, and I don't have air in the lines next time out. I only drain the whole system when I winterize. OP, as long as your bypass valves are in normal position, your hot water tank will fill from whatever water source you're using, city for FW tank. Mark
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts