All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Had sleep study last night: calling all auto cpap users!I have used a CPAP in travels all over the world. I own a humidifier but don't ever use it. My machine works on either 110V or 240V and converts it to DC voltage. The placement is not critical to the operation and I often just stick it in a drawer on my side of the bed. Wash your mask and hose regularly with a bit of anti-bacterial soap. rinse well and dry during the day while you don't need it. Sleep better and travel more. Airlines allow you to bring it along as an extra carry-on. You will live longer and enjoy camping more.Re: Issues Getting the Camper LevelHow about picking a site where the hitch needs to go up, instead of down. Easy on a pull-through, not so easy on a back in. Pulling up on anything increases your risk of roll away. Make sure your well chocked.Re: Is there a good tow vehicle that also gets good MPG?Have you thought about a Toyota Sienna Van. Very similar to the Ody but comes in all trims with the towing cooler on the trans and the 3500 capacity from the factory. I just recently traded a 2013 Ody in on a 2014 Sienna just because it would cost almost 2K to get the Ody ready to tow and buying a new 2014 only cost me about 3K. I will be towing a Jayco A-frame weighing all up unloaded at 2,200 lbs. We only travel with 2 people onboard and watch our weights. JMHO.Re: Buying a used Fleetwood Flair 22' .....NADA ...low?Of course if NADA says 10K, then that is what NADA says as a guide only. The value of anything that is for sale is "The price that a willing and able buyer is willing to pay to a willing and able seller". Bwyond that the sky is the limit. I have seen fully restored airstreams sell for more than new ones. Your best bet is to let condition be your guide, not the NADA "GUIDE". That is all that folks are trying to tell you. NO ONE means to offend on these boards, but some of the repressed anger that is experienced by folk who have done this for a while sometimes comes out in the posts. Owning a motorhome is always a crap-shoot. S many variables and the learning curve is dramatic, as you well know from previous experience. Always remember your not paying for what is there, your paying for what is left. Drive the back roads of America and you will see lots of vintage motorhomes with leaking roofs and bulging sides, with 10 year old tires sitting in the front yard with a sun-burned sign For Sale in the windows. LIke finding vintage cars the only way you can make a reasonable evaluation is to go look for yourself and then base your offer to buy not on what the asking price is and only on what you are willing to pay. Especially in your position where you have the CASH to finish the deal, you are giving up your strongest weapon when you make offers at long range over the web based on photos. Find one near you that meets your needs and then evaluate it based on YOUR experience, of which you have plenty, to establish a price you would be willing to pay. Then offer what seems like a rediculous offer, way below what is being asked and see what happens. Worst they can say is NO. Might just get a steal because the seller is just tired of looking at whatever it is. CASH in hand talks. BS walks. JMHO.Re: Buying a used Fleetwood Flair 22' .....NADA ...low?If I were looking where you are looking, I would look at Holiday Rambler, Newmar or Tiffin. Unless your heart is set on a 22 to 26 footer you will have WAY more coach in a non-slide coach with a 30 to 32 footer. In that vintage there were some really nice coaches built without rubber roofs, which at that age would be VERY suspect.Re: Buying a used Fleetwood Flair 22' .....NADA ...low?We had one of those in our family. for about 12 years. If you look at a different one, take a look at the front supports holding the entire body to the frame in the front. Those real short coaches were built on a E-350 chassis, not a short F-53. The E 350 was supposed to be a class C, but Fleetwood used them somehow without the cab and mounted the body in front with angle iron supports that can rust out. Look carefully and make sure the dashboard is sound, and not shaking up and down.Re: New to us RVWorkhorse chassis has a known intermittent problem with the Switch units in the steering column. Do some back search of old posts and you will find some mention of it. I had a 06 W22 which would sometimes not turn on the flashers and sometimes stop having a right blinker. Do some basic troubleshooting and pay close attention to the Multi-switch in the steering column. It does a lot of work in a small area and is subject to constant movement and use. Just a thought. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26795818/gotomsg/26796929.cfm#26796929Re: Air ride for motorhomeI have Airlift front and back on my current Ford Spring chassis. Works as intended. I had Airlift on my previous W22 and that worked as well. Bags will help some, takes the jolt out of expansion joints. As far as "Lipstick on a pig", just another cheap shot from a diesel fume breather. Come on guys, we all know that DP is better, Ya, Ya, Ya, but why do you always have to bring up some snide comment. I for one don't appreciate it all the time. Some of us LIKE our less expensive rigs because they are what we can afford and we are able to maintain them ourselves. Besides when I came down here to the RGV in Jan this year and since I'm not leaving till mid-Mar, the only difference in ride I experience seems to be the lack of frequent smell of deisel fumes around my coach.Re: B+ motorhomesThis is not an attempt to sell my personal motorhome, since I just about finished setting up my new one. I would just like everyone who is interested to know that my previous Trail-lite 251 is still sitting at Floyd's RV Goldsboro, OK. They have not posted it on their website, but I was just there last Friday and it is still available. I can personally speak for that one being a real nice unit, All fiberglass, twin house batteries on a slide-out tray, Mor-ryde rear suspension, twin sofa's, made down bed in the rear, 8 cube fridge, 15K Dometic ducted AC, Chevy chassis and just about 13K miles, still under Chevy Warranty. Goldsboro is just South of OKC on I35 South, 200 miles or so North of Dallas. It was built by Monaco for me Dec 2005 on a 2006 chassis. In it's first year, it saw the Golden Gate, Hwy 101, Grand Canyon, Macinaw Bridge and Tampa Florida, giving excellent service with virtually no problems. I just hate to see it sit unused, it served me well. Wednesday were of to Oregon in the new Holiday Rambler Admiral. See anyone in Redmond that might be there at the FMCA Rallye.Re: B+ motorhomesBurl I bought a left-over Holiday Rambler SE 34SBD, with 2 slides on a Workhorse W22 chassis. It weighs almost double what the Trail-lite weighed. We decided that since we have cruised around the US for many miles in the last 16 years, that it would be nice to go back to a larger class A and drive fewer miles and sit longer in one spot. I have a nice Corolla 5 speed as a tow car and it gets 36+ around town, so not running the RV motor and using the car will even out our costs. This one won't go to the California Coast, Upper Michigan and Florida in it's first year. It's more of a condo on wheels. For anyone who has followed some of my comments, I knowingly broke several of my own buying rules, but the deal was just to good to pass up. Don't let anyone try to convince you that your B+ has not kept it's value well. Dealers here in the Oklahoma City Metro area, have the smallest supply of all motorhomes that I can recall seeing in the last 15 years. They essentially have nothing available in a small class C or B+. Diesel Pushers are still moving reasonably well, but Class A gas are not selling well. We found a floorplan that is just about perfect for the way we live, at a price I know is a bargain for a new one with full warranties, so, with 6.5% money from my local Credit Union I decided it would be a good move and my better half says she likes the idea. What more is there.
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