All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: My Hensley Hitch Rebuild and PaintAgreed. I even lube mine slightly for easier release (a drop of dish detergent works pretty well). I used your original post to disassemble mine, glad to see it's back up and running.Re: HELP...Strange Tire WearIndeed - appreciate the followup.Re: Mountain towing - Ram 1500 ecodiesel (3.92 Rear Axle Ratio) Lynnmor wrote: ScottG wrote: Do the new ED's have an exhaust brake yet? If not then coming down hills would be my biggest concern. Keep speed down with quick on-off jabs to the brakes so they don't heat up. Otherwise, have a great trip! Brakes are a heat device, no heat equals no braking. Yes, but he means don't just ride them all way down the mountain...Re: HELP...Strange Tire Wear JBarca wrote: Hi, I will try and help. This pic of yours That wear pattern points to an excessive toe out condition. There may be a small amount of negative camber mixed in too. But I would suspect excessive toe out to the main issue. Basically, the wheel is at a toe'ed out (pointing outward) angle to the direction of camper travel. This condition creates a high scrub angle to the road and is burning/wearing up rubber just going forward. You mentioned you used a level on the wheel, that is a good quick check "but" in order for it to be accurate, the camper "must" be parked on a true level spot were both the left and right tires are on the same level spot. Once the pavement under the tires is dead level, then you can put a level on the rim and see what you have. A wheel that is exactly level means it has close to 0 degree camber. Which points towards the axle tube being at total capacity. Under less than total axle capacity, the top center of the wheel should be pointing outward from the camper indicting positive camber. When the top of the wheel points inward towards the camper that is negative camber and comes from axle overload or bent axle spindle/tube. Your level check may not be accurate. If you want to drill down into sorting this out yourself and you have access to some basic tools and some advanced the further you want to check it, see this post. TT axle alignment & install - Detailed (long lot's of pics) In the second paragraph is a link to my prior tire wear investigation. Between the 2 posts, a level, some spacers, a tape measure and an amount of knowing what to look for you can see big picture what may be going on. Your camper does not look new by the cracking paint/rust on the frame and do not know how many years you owned it or if you bought it used. You may have inherited a manufacturing issue from the factory with hanger locations being off. Or the axle tube became bent along the way. And that combined with excessive spring bushing wear and or axle weights. Have you ever weighed the camper axle by axle? And ideally by each wheel location. All 4 tires are not normally loaded equal. Many times 1 or 2 tires are loaded more than the rest. Camper floor plan and how much cargo is stored on which side can create a heavy wheel. On the heavy wheel the spring will flatten more and will change the location of the axle. This is normal but when the weights or spring gets very flattened, then it can be part of a tire wear issue along with other factors. Meaning this may be a combo problem, not one smoking gun. Since it "looks" like your truck mirrors are in the pic, this heavy wear tire is the left rear tire. Yes/no? That means the rear spring hanger and bushing set on that rear leaf spring is creating the location setting of the axle. If the hanger is out of location, the wheel will be out of location too and out of location in relation to the front axle assuming the front axle is even in the right location. And or the you have an axle spindle that is bent outward. Did this just happen, like in the last 4 months or you never towed that long and hard with it before to notice? Is this the 1st or 3rd set of tires on the camper you put on? If you measure tread depth across the face of all 4 tires you can see if all 4 wheels are rolling in alignment. The tire you have now, you said it is not wearing the same all the way around. HEADS UP, the tire may be coming apart inside. A spin test can help tell that. Jack up the camper and spin that rear tire. Place a board as a feeler across the OD tire face. Spin the tire slowly and mark where you started. The OD should run true round. If it has a section with a hump, the tire can be starting to come apart inside. See this video of me doing a spin test this spring when my BFG LT tires had tread separation. This was the 3rd one I caught before it let go. This link will take you to my Flick'er site with the short video https://flic.kr/p/HxGnZp This location was the out of round area The wood tire feeler touching the high spot The clearance off the high spot Inside the tire coming apart If you have an out of round bump condition like that, change that tire ASAP. It is on borrowed time. Put the spare on and be looking for a new tire to get back a working sound spare. In your situation you really do not want to be without a good working spare. You will be wearing the spare when you put it on in that location. Hope this helps Let us know what you find. John Follow all this and you will find your problem. If it were me, I'd start with the last item first - the tire wearing only in certain spots, plus that tire running hotter, to me says the you have a tread separation happening. Often, just jacking up that one tire and spinning it, while looking at the tread surface, will show "wobbles" or "humps" in the tread and/or sidewall. This needs immediate attention.Re: Ideas on folding table storageMy storage area is too small for my non folding table (6'). Used to carry inside on the bed but that meant that I had to unload it first thing when we got to site. I tabbed up a "drawer" of sorts under my frame from side to side. Used old garage door rails. Drilled four holes in the table sides and inserted the garage door rollers. Mounted the garage door rails under the frame of the tt with slot angle. Used flat slot metal to cap each end. One end I used pins to hold the flat piece in place. Remove pins and slide the table out like a drawer. I posted a write up and how to on it, but It's been a long time ago and it's been archived. Will do some more digging and see if I can find it. Probably been 4 years ago, maybe longer. **edit - the search function on this site is HORRIBLE. However, I did a search function through google instead and found it in about 3 seconds. Here's my original write up: Under frame table storageRe: TT Air pressure allenm wrote: I also have Goodyear Endurance ST20575R14D tires on my 3,750 GVWR Jayco. I've been thinking about lowering my tire pressure down from 65 psi. My problem is bouncing, especially on concrete interstates. If I subtract 12% to account for hitch weight, I'm down to 3,300, which would be 1,650 per tire. Goodyear's Load/Inflation table for these tires shows 45 psi will carry 1,640 lbs. I'm thinking of going down to 50 lbs to see if that helps on rough roads. For what it's worth, my trailer has a Lippert 3,500 lb single axle. I think these lightweight single axle trailers are prone to bouncing on rough roads. https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf One factor to keep in mind is that as pressure goes down, tire temp goes up (this from a tire engineer). Take two comparable sized tires, say one D and one E rated. Air the E rated down so it can carry same load as the D rated (using tire tables). The E rated will run hotter than the D Rated. Heat is one of the big enemies of tire life. You might try dropping perhaps 5psi, but I wouldn't want to drop all the way down to 50. Especially if you haven't actually scaled the TT. I would value tire longevity over trailer ride any day of the week. That's just me, though.Re: TT Air pressureAgree with above - max sidewall PSIRe: TT A/C options afidel wrote: First step is clean the unit, take off the rooftop cover and clean the coils, second thing to do is take off the inside cover and tape up the ductwork, many trailers are so hastily built that 50% or more of the cold air goes into the ceiling space where it does little to cool the occupants. If those fail then call a mobile RV tech to check the unit. Bingo. Especially the tapework. Also, if you have window in direct sunlight, pull the shades down or even stick car windshield sun reflectors in them. Really helps. Also, super cool it at night, set the temp down to 67 or so and let it get a head start against the hot day coming.Re: Hensley/Propride owners -- Leaving trailer for maintenance?I would remove if I ever took to a dealer. Good time to go ahead and lube the ball while it is off anyway.Re: Lippert slide out plastic trackThe new Grand Design Imagine Travel Trailers have them. A friend just bought one. Going see if I can get him to have dealer to order them.
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