uzikaduzi
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Re: Right and Left sway control a myth?
Huntindog wrote: uzikaduzi wrote: i don't understand how 2 bars could cause a binding issue... it seems that the forces being applied with 1 regardless of which side you choose to use it on, would be the same type of forces on the other... unless there was a bit of play between the ball and the tongue which is scary to think about whether there is or is not any sway control. i've never used the friction bar type sway control. i may be incorrect on this but it seems like a better idea to have the trailer want to right itself like a dual cam then to resist all movement. The DC is a 100% friction based control. Not sure what you are trying to say, but the DC does not force the TT back into line. It has friction in both directions, but less friction when moving back to center... This may or may not be desirable depending on circumstances and point of view. i'm not sure on the correct wording to use to describe the type of sway control that is separate from a WDH and i likely used the wrong words to descibe why i personally view something like a DC to be a better way to control sway. i agree the dc is always under friction. when the bar is riding higher on the cam when the TV and the TT are articulating it is increasing friction being applied by increasing wieght to the bars and the friction decreases when the TT is becoming centered. it isn't forcing the TT to center but it is encouraging the tt to center while discouraging movement away from center, with the other type there is just friction hindering movement in any direction like a shock. i am no engineer and i may not understand the differences between the two enough to say one is difinitively superior to the other, but i can't think of a senerio where the design of something like a dc would be less desireable to the add-on friction bar type. i'm not saying that to imply there isn't one, just that i can't invision one.284Views0likes0CommentsRe: Upgraded My Truck
normally with 20's they do decrease you payload a little... on a different note: my boss has the same truck with a larger and heavier 5th wheel. he said on longer trips he has fogotten he's towing a trailer and without noticing ended up crusing around 75-80 mph. while i think we'd all agree that's an unsafe speed to tow at, i wouldn't mind a towing experiance that was so nice that i forgot i was towing462Views0likes0CommentsRe: Question for those who have Maxxis tires.
i think the comments that reference discount tire have more to do with them then the specific tire... they are really good about dealing with issues. between bias and radial- my '73 holiday rambler towed horribly with anything other than bias ply. it is strange to describle but it was kind of like a squeshy feeling447Views0likes0CommentsRe: Right and Left sway control a myth?
i don't understand how 2 bars could cause a binding issue... it seems that the forces being applied with 1 regardless of which side you choose to use it on, would be the same type of forces on the other... unless there was a bit of play between the ball and the tongue which is scary to think about whether there is or is not any sway control. i've never used the friction bar type sway control. i may be incorrect on this but it seems like a better idea to have the trailer want to right itself like a dual cam then to resist all movement.322Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bearings
i can run my AC on a 20 amp plug... but the point of the advice from Markiemark32 is still valid. you likely don't have a 30 or 50 amp plug to hook-up your trailer so be mindful of what you're running. my owners manaual actually breaks down how may amps each item in the trailer pulls. if you don't have that you could look at what size breaker the item you want to run has in the trailer.248Views0likes0CommentsRe: 71-73 Holiday Ramblers
my grandfather bought one new in '73 and kept every piece of paper it came with plus every reciept for anything he ever bought from it. i eventually inherited it and when it was time to upgrade, the papers went with it. something i remember was that you NEED a battery to use the converter. the newer campers don't need one to convert shore power to 12 volt when plugged in but the holiday rambler's coverter would burn up if you plugged it in without a battery. it towed terrible with anything other than bias ply tires. we tried different lt's and st's and it just didn't matter. the water is on a pressure tank systems. there are some benefits to that system but to me it was easy and cheap to switch it to a plastic tank with an on demand pump (which also removed the metalic taste from the water.) every fall we would re paint the roof seal with aluminum roof seal... it was a great camper.185Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tank Sensor theory (poll)
never had problems... BEFORE i use the black tank i fill the tank to 1/3 and i fill it up completely before dumping. i don't have the option to dump at home. also after i dump i put a few gallons back in each tank. i doubt this helps with the sensors but i don't want the gasket or o-ring or whatever it is in the blade valves to dry out285Views0likes0Comments
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