Chum_lee
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Re: Inverter draw from battery for residential fridge
"Does anyone know how many amps are drawn by an inverter to convert to AC for a residential fridge. Can anyone tell me how to figure it out. Look for the Manufacturers ID plate attached somewhere to your refrigerator. It will state the load in amps @ 120 volts. Convert that to watts. Watts = Volts X Amps. For example, if your refrigerator draws 6 amps @ 120 volts, the watts equal 6 X 120 = 720 watts actual load. Now add the power draw of your inverter (in addition to the energy required to run the frig) to convert from 12 to 120 volts. If you have a 1000 watt inverter, figure about 5%. So .05 X 1000 = 50 watts. Now add that to the actual load. 720 + 50 = 770 watts. Now convert to battery amps @ 12 volts. 770 / 12 = 64 amps. That's a lot, but it is not continuous. It's based on the duty cycle of your refrigerator. 64 amps @ 12 volts far exceeds what you could reasonably/reliably expect to run through a single pin on a standard 7 pin truck/trailer connector. Your residential refrigerator may draw less than 6 amps (@ 120 volts), but, if it's a high end model with all the bells and whistles, it could be considerably more. Chum lee2.8KViews0likes0CommentsRe: full wall slideout issue - maybe
To get an idea of how much frames actually bend when stressed, go to any shop with a car up on a lift and being supported by the frame. (all wheels hanging off the ground) Open the drivers door and then try to close it. Chances are it won't feel/sound right. It may not even open/close with the wheels in the air. Chum lee1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Onan Generator Oil Filter Crossthreaded
rjstractor wrote: I think your service department screwed up royally and are trying to make you pay for it. If the previous servicer had cross threaded the filter boss, your filter would have probably leaked. Yes! And, IME, it would have probably leaked from the moment oil pressure/volume was initially supplied by the oil pump. The OP doesn't state which model (age/current hours/size/fuel type) of Onan generator they are speaking about which would be helpful in getting more useful information in this format. Chum lee1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Installing an oven into a former rental rv
jedavisss8 wrote: Hi All, I am considering a former rental RV. I have found that the El Monte RV models are out of my price range. The Cruise America models will work. However, none of them have an oven. I am guessing the space for the microwave is too small to install a convection oven. So, here's the question: have any of you installed a regular oven in the space below the cooktop. No oven is nearly a deal breaker for me. Thanks for your responses. Million dollar question: What do you consider to be a "regular oven." Generally, the Magic Chef style cook top/oven combos are propane powered. Does the RV you are considering have a propane tank, or, is it all electric? (Cruise America saves money that way) If it's all electric, most likely, it doesn't have a range top vent, and plumbing for propane where you'll need it. Range top/oven vents are required if you cook with propane. (carbon monoxide/dioxide source) With an electric oven, you may need to upgrade your electrical system. Either way, based on what you want to do, you should be clear on what's required before you buy. Chum lee1.8KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Take apart signal lite switch? - Hi beam on with right turn
BobsYourUncle wrote: Truck in sig, 2007 GMC Classic: I have the most annoying issue with my signal light switch. Question is for you all, has anyone tried disassembling the signal light switch? Are there screws to take it apart? I like fixing stuff instead of replacing it. I know I can buy a new one for a small fortune and just replace it, but I'd like to try fixing it. I'll likely wind up buying a new one, I know, but just thought I'd ask. I've done the same thing for years with good results, but with German cars which generally have Bosch, Siemens, Hella, etc. electricals so I haven't done much (anything) with AC/Delco headlight switches. AC/Delco programmer motors, . . . yes. All you can do is remove the switch and see how it was manufactured/assembled. Usually it will be with snaps, rivets, tabs, screws, glue, heat bonding, or any combination. If your problem is with dirty/worn internal contacts, often it is repairable with cleaning/resurfacing, then reassembly. If the problem is with ratcheting assemblies/gears/cams/bushings, etc., often they break or just wear out. Finding/fabricating replacement parts can be difficult and generally not worth your time. If air bag equipped, use caution. (for obvious reasons) Good luck with it. Be aware: Many new electrical parts that show evidence of previous installation are not returnable for credit. IMO, you're definitely about to learn something. (that's a good thing) Chum lee956Views0likes0CommentsRe: 12v wire thickness
timelinex wrote: I have a 2kw inverter and will be getting a 100a converter for my 2 100ah lifepo4 batteries. Currently I'm just using whatever ga wires came with everything (a bix of 4/6/8). I am planning on changing everything to connect through a BUS BAR and upgrade all the cabling to heavier ga. I want to future proof it to handle a 3kw inverter. It's been REALLY confusing figuring out what wires I need. ALMOST everything online "(forums and articles) tell me I need something like a 4/0 guage, which is HUGE. That makes sense considering 3kw can reach 200-250 amps. Except the fact that no OEM items come with something nearly this thick. I think the reason all these recommendations may be wrong is they do not account for length of wire being very short in our use cases. It looks like considering everything is definitely under 4ft, I won't need anything over 4ga. On the other hand, I'm pretty sure that ampacity is over max 4ga rating when you look it up. Can anyone make any recommendations based on actual knowledge and not just heresay or making best guesses? Look at the cables/connectors from your chassis battery to the starter motor. What size/material/insulation are they? It's quite normal for your starter motor to draw well over 250 amps @ 12 volts (nominal) to start the vehicle. Granted, it's usually for only a short time, but when you need it, . . . . you need it. It's not just the size of the wire, the connectors are important too, since over time, often (not always) they initiate the failure of the wire. Chum lee761Views0likes0CommentsRe: Damaged hydraulic leveler hoses
Mike Schriber wrote: I've noticed that the hoses for my hydraulic leveling system are losing the outer rubber protective later. It's just cracking and falling away. Beneath I can see a woven layer that I imagine is what contains the pressure of the inner hose. The woven layer looks pristine. Do I need to immediately worry about replacing these hoses or can I monitor them for deterioration of the now exposed pressure layer? Thanks! The most important layer of your hydraulic hoses is on the inside where the fluid is. Which you CAN'T see. Nor can anyone else with the hoses in place. That said, often (not always) what's happening on the outside, reflects what's happening on the inside. Your flexible hoses are at least 17 years old. IMO, the hydraulic system for your levelers isn't critical, like it is for brakes/steering/cooling/lubrication. It's more of a convenience that, in a pinch, you can make do without. If it were mine, I wouldn't worry about it, BUT, I would source/price replacement parts, and be clear on the availability. If you plan on replacing the hose(s) yourself and the prompt availability is questionable, I would order the hoses now and keep them (along with extra hydraulic fluid) on hand for the impending moment. All hoses fail, . . . eventually. At the first sign of fluid seepage, bulging, or, lack of hydraulic pressure, IMO, the best time for hose replacement has arrived and passed. Your decision. IMO, it's more a matter of how much inconvenience you're willing to tolerate. Chum lee P.S.: When I say, "I wouldn't worry about it." That doesn't mean I wouldn't take action, . . . . . now. My mother (RIP) used to worry incessantly, doing nothing, as she watched her world fall apart. I'm not suggesting you do that!903Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anyone with a 34 J Motorhome
Generally on front engine Class A gassers, the driveshaft is in the way between the front and rear axles and the fuel tank is in the way behind the rear axle. So, . . . . you usually won't find full height/width pass through basement storage. Chum lee176Views0likes0CommentsRe: Do it yourself Oil Change on Newmar class a gas motorhome
Depending on who installed the last oil filter and how long it's been there, you may need a special oil filter wrench to remove the existing filter. In the future, if you use the correct OEM oil filter (Motorcraft FL-820S) and install it correctly (coat gasket with oil and hand tighten only) you won't ever need the oil filter wrench again. Chum lee920Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2009 Tiffin Phaeton Engine Rebuild
IMO, there's so little information given here that it's impossible to even guess what happened. Some general information. In a water cooled engine with a pressurized cooling system running the proper 50/50% water/coolant mix, 230F is not even boiling over. Yes, it's on the high side of normal, but a turbocharged properly maintained heavy duty diesel truck engine should be able to take that without spitting out parts. (if that happened) So, . . . . what really happened? Was this engine properly maintained, or was it run low on oil/coolant, modified, or, . . . something else? Chum lee959Views0likes0Comments
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