All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: AA and AAA Rechargeable BatteriesI've tried every brand going back about 20 years and Eneloops are my favorite. If you get them from Amazon just be sure they are shipped and sold by Amazon and not a third party, that way you are unlikely to get counterfeits. I have at least 50 of them going back as far as 10 years and none of them have gone bad. I got some from Costco, but most from Amazon.Re: How to remove chair with no access to bolt heads underneath?Thanks for all the great suggestions. I ended up doing what DougE suggested and figured when the bolts dropped into the sub floor I could squirt some expanding foam down there to trap the bolts and keep them from banging around. Turns out, there is apparently some rigid insulation in the subfloor that is keeping the bolts from dropping all the way down. Win-win! However, after doing two of the bolts, I cut the carpet back to expose the other two and they are installed the opposite direction! Why would they do this? The nuts are on the bottom, and are not captive (I checked to be sure). So I guess I'll just have to grind the head off the other two bolts.How to remove chair with no access to bolt heads underneath?I have a 23' Class C that has a typical small swivel chair located above the propane tank. The nuts that connect the pedestal to the floor are accessible but of course the bolts that come up from under the floor are not captive and just rotate when you try to loosen the Nylock nuts. The chair is over the propane tank but there is a subfloor between the tank compartment and the bolts. Any ideas? I'd ideally like to be able to put the chair back in at some point, but it's not a deal breaker. I realize I could grind the nuts off, but I don't like the idea of 4 bolts banging around in the subfloor either.Re: Remote measurement of fridge and freezer temperatures hedgehopper wrote: That's the same one we have been using. How do you tell when the batteries in the sensor go dead? I use the same one. I have Eneloop rechargeable batteries in them and I just replace them with freshly charged ones once a year.Re: Drained fuel tank, now fuel sender is inop?Thanks for all the replies. I have tried banging on the bottom of the tank, I'll see if I can get something in the gap to physically "persuade" the sender mounting plate. The Seafoam is a great idea, I haven't tried that yet. I may just run it this way for awhile, I've had it long enough that the fuel burn is very predictable and 90% of the time I'm towing ATV's and an extra 15 gallons of fuel. Maybe it will unstick, or I'll just get tired enough of it to drop the tank. I'm always leery of doing any kind of elective surgery on a 30 year old vehicle because something else always seems to break during the process.Drained fuel tank, now fuel sender is inop?I have a Ford E350 based Tioga motorhome with a 460 EFI. 3 months ago I drained the fuel tank because the rig had sat for a year and it looked like it was going to sit another 6 months. It was a fairly simple matter to disconnect the fuel filler inlet hose and snake a rubber siphon tube into the tank and drain the fuel. A few weeks after that we were able to take the rig out and now the fuel sender isn't working. When the ignition is on, it registers two needle widths below E which is normally about 3-5 gallons usable. I put 20 gallons in it and it didn't raise at all (this would have registered just under 3/4 tank) With ignition off, the needle drops considerably lower. I thought maybe the float arm was stuck (but it only sat empty for 2-3 weeks) but we traveled over a fairly rough dirt road for 10 miles or so and I would think it would have "unstuck" it. I also verified that the sender is getting power, because disconnecting the sender wire connector causes the gas gauge to drop all the way down to the same position as when the ignition is off. It definitely worked normally just before I drained the tank. Any ideas? I really don't want to drop the tank, but if the sender is shot I'll have to. I just don't understand why draining the tank (which would have had 2-3 gallons still in it) would cause the sender to stop working.Re: Bad air quality--finally taped a house filter on the A/CWildtoad, he's trying to mitigate the horrific air quality those of us in the west have been under for the last week. Wopachop, if I was out in the RV in this mess I would do the same thing. I would just go by the sound of the motor - if it's bogging too much then try something less restrictive. It's going to be a trade off, the more restriction the more potential stress on the motor but I would be trying to filter this lousy excuse for air too.Re: solar add on and batteriesI think 300w and 200a capacity is perfect. I have 1.5 to 1 and it works terrific for me.Re: Atwood FurnaceI'm in the same boat as JimK. Mine has always done this. It puts out a massive amount of heat for a little 23' MH and as it gets over 63 degrees or so in the MH the burner will shut off maybe every 10 minutes and then come back on after 5 minutes or so until it reaches the thermostat set temp or I turn it off. I just always thought that the furnace was oversized for the application.Re: Adjusting Brakes; quick questionGenerally you spin it up to tighten, but some vehicles work the other way. Best to use a shop manual for your application, or take the drum off to be sure.