CEddy
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Re: Any gain from WD on a dodge 3500
hertfordnc wrote: jmtandem wrote: The one thing you probably need to do is upgrade the stock receiver if you choose to run without WD. Really? The trucks is rated for 13,700 as is. Not sure how reliable the trailerlife tow rating book is but it doesn't say a thing about WD or any other limitations on the stock truck. Can't imagine it being hurt by my little TT Yes, really. Read your owner's manual, and check the weight ratings on your truck's receiver. My F-350's stock receiver was only rated for something like 500/5000 if not using a weight-distributing hitch. Has nothing to do with the 12,500-lb towing capacity of my truck. I've since upgraded my receiver to a beefy Curt unit, which is rated for 1700/17000 weight-carrying. I still use my weight-distributing hitch, however, since I don't want to subject myself to that ride.346Views0likes0CommentsRe: Parking level on a hill bad for suspension?
smkettner wrote: Tech is wrong. As long as the leaf equalizers (center pivot) are not maxed out, the weight is virtually equal. If he has torsion axles, then there would be more weight applied to the rear axle. I still wouldn't worry about it in this situation.516Views0likes0CommentsRe: LED marker,tail & stop lights
I've done this to my travel trailer. The reason? The stock Bargman #92 series tail lights were crappy, dim, cheap things. I figure the most important lights on my rig are the tail/brake lights, so I upgraded to surface-mount Bargman #84 series LED tail lights. HUGE difference in brightness, and I no longer wonder if the car behind me sees my brake lights when we hit the interstate traffic jam. I also changed the marker lights over to LED, but that was just a personal preference. I used the Peterson V180 series, but there are many manufacturers that make that same shape marker. One note- I went with markers that have built-in reflex since side reflectors are required on trailers to be DOT legal (or you can add seperate amber/red reflectors). Some may not care about that.481Views0likes0CommentsRe: Trailer Wiring - Added Side Turn Signals
You need one of these. I installed my side signals using this box, and it works fine- the side signals only light up when using that side's turn signal, and will not light up with the brakes. I mounted it under the front of my trailer near the pigtail junction box. I just left the red brake light output wire taped up. Although, if you're so inclined, I suppose you could tap the red wire and run a center high-mount stop light on your trailer, too!489Views0likes0CommentsRe: Safety Chain link being crushed by hitch when turning
I have a very similar problem with my setup- same Equal-i-zer hitch, same stupid V-shaped chain attach point under the coupler. My chain hasn't been crushed as bad as yours, though. For the record, the current chains have plenty of length, and I wouldn't say I've 'jack-knifed' my trailer any more than normal. I'm relocating my chains to the inside of the A-frame (new chains and hooks while I'm at it). I'm using bolt-on 12,000-lb D-rings as attachment points. There are also weld-on varieties if you're so inclined. After the new chains are on, the old attachment point will get cut off. Have you also had the issue where a link will get hung under the hitch head when unhitching and pick up the back of the truck? Wore my arm out cranking the tongue jack a few times before I figured that one out!664Views0likes0CommentsRe: What jack do you use in case of a flat?
I use a bottle jack between the U-bolts, but for the folks that use the drive-up method: any issues with spring shackles flipping on the drooping axle? I suspect I wouldn't be able to use the drive-up method as I already show some evidence of slight rubbing in the top of my wheel wells.338Views0likes0CommentsRe: Led Bulbs
My trailer came with the typical cheapy Bargman 92 series tail lights. I was never happy with the pitiful light they put out, so I replaced them with the Bargman LED 84/85 series. The new lights' brake light function is VERY bright, which is what I wanted. Comes in handy when backing into a site at night, as I only have to tap the brakes to light up the area behind the trailer. They are also large enough to cover all the holes from my old tail lights. The only downside was I had to mount a separate tag light/holder, but it wasn't a big deal. Edit: I should have added, no resistors required for my application on the trailer. I also would not recommend installing the LED 'bulbs' in housings designed for incandescent bulbs, as the light pattern will not spread/reflect properly. I've seen folks in my area install those in their cars, and it turns their tail lights into a little dot of light behind the big lens.284Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tips needed-backing up on the passenger's side.
Lantley wrote: My suggestion is to look at the track of the trailer wheels as you go. Watch the wheel react to steering input. Pull forward and correct as much as necessary to keep trailer going in correct direction. Never thought about it, but using mirrors I have no issues backing in either direction. This is the way I was taught- watch the trailer wheels. Where they go, the rest of the trailer will follow. I only use a spotter (wife) on the blind corner of the trailer (left rear, if backing to the right) to watch for impending collision/tail swing. I also use the 'swoop' maneuver, and make sure to pull far enough forward before backing. If you don't pull forward far enough, you wind up trying to cut too tight of an angle between truck and trailer.580Views0likes0CommentsRe: To grease the ball or not?
BarneyS wrote: ...except the shank will hang downward. Yeah, I guess "slamming" is a bit dramatic, but that's the part I was talking about. Maybe more of a "thunk." Or I can leave the spring bars in as well and pretend I have a Hensley when I'm hitching up...;)913Views0likes0Comments
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