All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: generator operstions B.B.Upch wrote: Ok any clue where I can have that done in Texas? If it is an Onan gen-set, check your area for a Cummins-Onan Service Center. Here is the link for their service center locator. http://power.cummins.com/sales-service-locatorRe: What to do Columbus Day Weekend in Gettysburg PA gdavis2000 wrote: any suggestions for campgrounds in gettysburg in november? looking for something that has semi private lots with hookups...not looking for an rv parking lot....thanks I agree with Mike - our favorite is Gettysburg Campground. Just be aware they close for the season on Nov 23.Re: What is a good wood epoxy for strengthening a floor joist? owenssailor wrote: I have a 52 year old 38 foot sailboat. Over the years have had to do various repairs. The best option is to cut out the rotted area, make a new piece to fit and then epoxy and screw it in place. The next option is to use West System epoxy with their high density filler and fill in the area where the rotted wood was. I tried Git Rot years ago. It did help but when I later took that area apart there was hard wood at the holes where the Git Rot was injected but still soft a few millimeters away. If you have questions plse let me know I won't dispute your findings, but I wonder how far apart your holes were? Was it solid teak, or ply? I honeycombed the area covered by the base of the mirror with 1/4" diameter holes every inch or so and really saturated the 3/4" plywood beneath the fiberglass skin. I'm not about to tear it apart to see the extent of the saturation, but not only did the mirror's four large screws bite and hold firmly, the previous spongy feel and sound of the area was gone, as well. When pulling hard on the mirror mount in any direction, the wall surface no longer moves at all. In my case, where I did not want to tear apart the sandwich wall to affect a repair that would have been a cosmetic mess, the thin epoxy served me perfectly and I am still delighted with the results. To each his own, and different solutions for different situations. In the OP's case where the damage is totally exposed and accessible, I will concede to your advice.Re: What to do Columbus Day Weekend in Gettysburg PACheck out the General Pickett's Buffet on Steinwher Ave., just up the street from the National Cemetery. It was a hang-out for the cast and crew of the Gettysburg and Killer Angels, the movies. The entry hall is covered with photos from the films and cast, while the dining room is decorated with scores of artworks of the campaign and its participants. Oh yeah, the food is pretty good, too! :) There are bus slots where you can park your rig, and even more parking space behind a closed restaurant next door. If you have not seen it in the last few years, don't miss the Cyclorama at the Visitors' Center. The eight-year restoration of this 360 degree painting and its new sound and light display are breathtaking. We have stayed at a number of area campgrounds over the last three plus decades, but our regular is the Gettysburg Campground on Route 116, Fairfield Road, west of town. Nice folks and a well-kept, wooded campground with Marsh Creek bending around it. The creek-side sites are especially nice. A certified RV technician, JR of JR's RV Service has his shop there. Unlike a lot of RV dealers and shops, he's very competent and knowledgeable. In the past few years JR has done several jobs I could not, or did not want to tackle, while we camped, some right at our campsite. One caveat: he does not do the automotive/chassis work, but he'll service anything built and installed by the coach-maker.Re: Refer problem pjyates100 wrote: I don't even know if I have an automatic shut off switch. I've never heard of that. I will look. If the problem was in the gas line, wouldn't the "check" light come on rather than the power going off? Thanks for your response! Your coach may not be equipped with one. Mine is a few years newer and a different make. If it is, you will find a box mounted near the LPG tank with both the gas line and some 12v wires running to it. It may have a reset button on it, too. That is the valve itself, and the control panel, if there is one, will be somewhere in the coach. Mine is brown, about 2x4 inches and has an on-off switch as well as a blinking light when it is working. A blinking light is hard to miss, so you probably do not have the remote panel, at least. Even so, you still can get air in your gas lines. I certainly did in my '77 Vega travel trailer. Try the burner purge, anyway. If the burner lights normally, the hot water heater lights, and the furnace gets warm, you'll need to look to the fridge itself for the issue. You make a good point about the power going off. My Norcold has a blinking light and a beep alarm when it fails to light on gas, but the 12v lights do not go out unless the fridge is turned off. I'll leave it to the more technically knowledgeable in that field to guide you further.Re: What is a good wood epoxy for strengthening a floor joist?From my days with boats (even more of a money pit than RVs!) I learned of a product called Boatlife GIT-Rot. I recently used it on my motorhome to restore the rotted plywood panel sandwiched in the side-wall behind the right hand-side mirror. I had to replace a damaged mirror that some dolt, who shall remain nameless, had managed to knock off going through a toll booth lane! :o The underlying plywood had rotted to the point that it would no longer hold the mounting screws for the new mirror. I thought that an expensive and difficult wall surgery was going to be necessary until I remembered the GIT-Rot. A half-hour's work and an overnight cure left the wall stronger than ever. It's a thin, two-part liquid epoxy that you squirt into drilled holes in the rotted wood without removing the rotted portions. By capillary action it permeates all the spongy, rotted wood fibers and cures overnight, leaving a wood/epoxy amalgam that stronger than the original, undamaged wood. You should dry the rotted area as much as you can with a hair dryer or heating gun set on low, but the stuff will even work on slightly damp wood, as it did with mine. Here's the YouTube video: GIT-Rot demo I got mine at Amazon, here. Just make sure you follow the directions carefully when it comes to temperature, mixing, and curing time. Also, if you are drilling on the vertical side of your beam, slant the drilled holes downward to allow the epoxy to flow into the wood and not spill down the surface. Good luck. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me.Re: Refer problemI've had this happen a few times. Assuming your gas is on at the tank, check to make sure your automatic shut-off switch has not been accidentally turned off. Mine is located on the kick board below the lav sink cabinet, which makes it vulnerable. Next, check that there is not a bubble of air in the lines that will prevent the fridge from kicking over to gas. You can do this by lighting a burner on the gas range. If it does not light immediately, an air bubble may be the issue. Once the burner catches, you may be able to light the fridge, although it may still take a few tries. Good luck.Re: Oil Changes and Overheating- A Cautionary Tale Wrong Lane wrote: If we are talking about access to perform your own maintenance then I want to add the terrible location of the oil pan drain plug. Mine is right above the front axle meaning I have to balance the waste oil tray on the axle while draining the old oil. I always manage to spill a cup or so on my driveway every year. I do place a tarp under the engine to prevent a mess but what a pain! I surrendered to that battle after my first try. I let the oil cascade off the axle into the drain pan, then wipe it all down with paper towels when the job is done. Hey, at least that section of the axle will never rust!Re: Oil Changes and Overheating- A Cautionary Tale BUTCHPHI wrote: You hint about difficulty of removing radiator - can you share a little insight or techniques??? Just in case, ha. I've got a 2000 Tropical with the v10, so some day I may face same issue. Not in detail, because I left the task to the two mechanics who got stuck with it. The coach had to be jacked up high enough for the radiator to come out the bottom and there was a lot of swearing in a couple different languages going on. Does that help? :)Re: Generator Transfer Switch WoesOld Bounder, I was able to get at the transfer switch following your specific directions, verify that all the connections were tight, and carefully clean the contacts with some 400 grit paper. The switch now seems to be working reliably (fingers crossed with a couple big trips coming up beginning Monday). I never would have found the thing on my own. Many thanks from this Old Southwind.