atomicglock
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Re: Sewer solution
et2 wrote: atomicglock wrote: Curiosity question when using the Sewer Solution: There have been campgrounds I've stayed at that did not have the capability to hook up a hose to the water spigot or there was some sort of pedestal type thing with a spring on top and a permanently attached hose/spray nozzle. What does one do then? Then you probably don't have a sewer hookup anyway. Dump with the same 3" sewer hose like everyone else at the dump station. It's not a permanent fixture if you can't use it. Dump as normal Yes, there were/are always dump stations. You made my point for me. Why carry around a fancy, expensive, special piece of equipment that you may or may not be able to use? The stinky slinky will work most everywhere. JMHO.372Views0likes0CommentsRe: Sewer solution
Curiosity question when using the Sewer Solution: There have been campgrounds I've stayed at that did not have the capability to hook up a hose to the water spigot or there was some sort of pedestal type thing with a spring on top and a permanently attached hose/spray nozzle. What does one do then?372Views0likes0CommentsRe: Sway control mainteinance?
Lynnmor wrote: You can clean the friction pad and bar with a towel moistened with brake cleaner. Do not apply lube to the bar or pad. Lube the ball ends with a small amount any grease you have. So I don't put lube on the bar? Why does Harbor Freight tell me to do so? Does seem counter productive now that I think about it. Why would you lube something you want to make friction? It would be like putting oil on your brakes. Thanks for knocking the cob webs loose.268Views0likes0CommentsSway control mainteinance?
Sorry if this is a dupe. I did a quick search and didn't find anything. I bought a sway control bar from Harbor Freight last year because my old trailer acted a little squirrelly behind my 06 F-250 short bed super cab. I'd never had any problems with any of my previous trucks. I blame the short bed. All my other trucks were long beds. As to my question, The owners manual says, after 1000 miles, I should clean the bar with a wire brush and lubricate it, but, it doesn't say what I should lube it with. Grease? Oil? Graphite? Elephant whiz? Anyone have any recommendations? Sway control kit: http://www.harborfreight.com/trailer-sway-control-kit-96462.html Thanks.3.4KViews0likes10CommentsRe: Increasing potable water tank
APT wrote: atomicglock wrote: We already use paper plates and bowls and use the campgrounds showers and, as often as possible, their toilets. We try to conserve as much as possible. How do you use 55 gallons of water so quickly then? My 35gal tank (plus 6gal water heater) just lasted us 8 nights, family of 5. We did use water spigots to fill the coffee pot daily and fill a pot for boiling water a few times. That saved a few gallons, but 2-4 days? Flushing the toilet (we're getting older so we tend to have to pee at night a lot more than we used to), cooking, doing dishes, filling a Brita pitcher we keep in the fridge and the coffee pot, washing up... I don't think that's excessive usage. I do have one possible excuse. We were staying at Assateague Island National Seashore. It was hotter than hell and so humid you had to cut a chunk of air out and chew it up before you could breath it. Sweat ran off us in rivers. Without air conditioning, we drank a lot of water to stay hydrated. Probably caused us to pee even more, so, more toilet flushing. I just don't know.:h370Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hinge is killing our backs!
6dot6 wrote: plywood :) This is what I was thinking. Buy a piece that's the same thickness as the hinge, cut it to the size and shape of the bed frame, then cut across it where the hinge would be. The plywood should raise your mattress up high enough to clear the hinge. You'll have to stow the piece that is part of the fold out somewhere, but, that should be a minor problem.355Views0likes0CommentsRe: Increasing potable water tank
myredracer wrote: I'd be very cautious about the additional weight. The first thing I would do is go to a scale and weigh your camper and compare that to the GVWR to see if you would be overloaded. That's 374 lbs of extra weight. I would also be very careful about the strength of the floor and what the frame has for supports under the floor. It would also affect your tongue weight which in some cases could be an issue. Personally, I would not entertain the idea at all. Many trailers have a problem with carrying just one tank full of water as it is. Some have ended up with serious frame problems from carrying too much water even though you would think trailers are built substantially enough to handle the weight, but they're not. In our case, if we traveled with just a full load of fresh water, we'd be overloaded. If I were planning on traveling over the road with the water tanks full, I would have serious reservations, as well. In addition to the effect the load would have on the truck/trailer combination, the loss of fuel mileage from hauling 800# of extra weight would give me pause also. Since I would only be driving from the potable water spigot to the camp site itself, I didn't see a major problem. However, as I said in my last post, the tank won't fit under the bed, so, it's moot at this point anyways.370Views0likes0CommentsRe: Increasing potable water tank
For anyone that cares, here's an update. I finally got time to go out to the camper and take some measurements. Under the bed measures 48". The tank measures exactly 48" without the fittings on the end. In other words, it won't fit. Bummer. So it's on to plan B. The extra tank goes with us and I use it and the spare pump to feed the camper tank. Best I'm gonna do without going out and spending a bunch more money. Thanks to all of you for your help.371Views0likes0Comments
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