eadeal55
Explorer
Joined 21 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Looking for a good RV
We reviewed a lot of RV manufacturers in looking for a Class C to downsize into from our 34ft gas class A. Gas chassis or diesel chassis? We wanted a diesel for better fuel mileage. A couple good choices, but we decided on the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter chassis. Tiffin was our choice of manufacturer because of their after the purchase support reputation.836Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bounder with Atwood jacks
can someone point me in the direction of finding an Atwood Electric Jack Auto Controller - part number 80618 rev 3. All my jacks are good, just the controller is having voltage issue and not sensing the front driver's jack hitting the ground. Will cause the system to alarm and lock the jacks. It takes some finagling with the front jack and control pad, but eventually I can get them to retract.511Views0likes0CommentsRe: TV Antennas
Bill.Satellite wrote: See Dutch's post above. The Sensar IV (or earlier with the Wingman add-on) is still the best fixed antenna for an RV. While the Winegard dome OTA antenna will find and lock to channels automatically is does not have the gain that the Batwing does. Adding the Sensar Pro allows you to point the antenna before doing a channel scan as it identifies where the strongest signal is in just a matter of seconds. This is what I have been using for the past few years. Real easy to crank up antenna, spin back and forth for the highest signal strength and then turn on the HDTV and let it search and lock in the local channels.639Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tv while traveling
going down the road we can use our Verizon MiFi for internet, and then DW and GKids can stream what they want to their tablets. Mostly they watch Netflix and YouTube. Parked I can usually get many OTA channels on my crank-up antenna with HDTV add-on...if I'm not sitting out in BFE where the sun don't shine.710Views0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood 66273 Levelegs Key Pad
I had my control pad repaired once, by a computer shop in VA Beach that had a retired Navy ET/2M repair tech on staff. Charged me $70. A year or so later, the pooch got around under the dash and caught the pad wires in her collar and pull them out. Was unrepairable after that. I looked for a salvage pad on-line but none were available at a reasonable price. I just used my orange level blocks. Then, I went into a friend's 2008 Phaeton, and he had the same pad, and his was broke also. His on/off buttons didn't work. He called Tiffin right there and gave them the part number, and they had it in-stock. He ordered one for $119. When it got in, he installed it. It worked and he called me and I had him order me one. That was Oct 2016, and my jacks worked until Oct 2017 when the front driver's jack over extended and alarmed. I think it broke something inside the drive head. I went back to using orange blocks and will hopefully get that jack removed and repaired soon.78Views0likes0CommentsRe: Front windshield and info for insurance
I had a rock hit my driver's side windshield while motorhome was in storage. I filed a claim with Progressive and they turned it over to Duncan Systems. Duncan called and I chose Custom Glass Solutions - an FMCA partner - to manage my claim. After initial discussions with CGS, my claim Rep asked me to provide the letters and numbers off the windshield, and then called around to local glass companies to see who had the ability to replace motorhome windshields. She provided me three local companies and I picked one to visit, check out their facility and talk to the shop manager. I called CGS back, told them who I wanted to replace the glass and they ordered the glass and had it shipped direct to the replacement shop. Waiting now for the glass to arrive and them set up a time to take the motorhome over and have the glass replaced. No cost to me since I had a zero deductible for being claims free for 5 years.307Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bounder Does Not Start
tropical36 wrote: eadeal55 wrote: tropical36 wrote: eadeal55 wrote: tropical36 wrote: eadeal55 wrote: tropical36 wrote: eadeal55 wrote: Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something.... Yes, my aux starter solenoid is right there on the pass side frame. Easier to reach from underneath than from above thru the doghouse hatch. Have checked the voltage there and it appears I don't have the 12v on the signal wire to close that solenoid at ignition start. I'm going to look at the key switch on the steering column since have already replaced the ignition switch. thanks...Andy OK, try this and on the ignition Switch itself put 12vdc on the wire going to the aux. solenoid, to see if it's intact and will actually close the solenoid. Also verify if the sw. has 12v supply voltage to begin with, so if and when it does close with the key, you'll have it at the aux. If so, then that sw. is probably faulty and sometimes just rattling the control rod, from the key lock makes it contact. Earlier you said your old P30 chassis had a rod between the key lock cylinder and the ignition switch. Mine has a plastic rod called an ignition switch actuator. I was doing some on-line troubleshooting last night with my Nephew in MO. He runs a locksmith shop and does a lot of key lock cylinder replacements. He remembered a lot of Fords have that actuator, so we did an F53 ignition diagram check on PartsGeek, and there it was. I need to get over to the Bounder in storage and see if I can access the ignition switch and slide the tab forward/down all the way with the key on and see if it starts. Appreciate all your time and insight. I'll let you know if I am successful. Metal, plastic, makes not a diff., so here's my story when in a CG on a Sunday morning, some years agao... Found a switch in my on board collection, cut two lengths of wire for it, jammed the other ends into the ignition switch terminals and held it fast with some tape. Laying the sw. up on the dog house for easy access and presto, we have secondary ignition for getting underway to a funeral. Some days later, I got the switch in that town and changed it out, in another CG. Worked fine, until we sold the coach in 16. Even for a small guy, it was a bear getting under there to work on it. Turned the seat to the right 90 degrees and slide in against the wall sideways. Funny for when we got to our destination, as I never shut the engine off, once started. So, when we got setup there and went to turn off the ignition, the engine kept on running and until I turned off the additional switch, that I installed. Agree that space is tight. I'm thinking about taking up the driver's seat just to ensure I can get my big butt in there. I'm hoping I won't have to pull the steering wheel to get to the key lock surround. I need to see the end of the ignition lock cylinder where the actuator attaches with the D ring.975Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bounder Does Not Start
tropical36 wrote: eadeal55 wrote: tropical36 wrote: eadeal55 wrote: tropical36 wrote: eadeal55 wrote: Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something.... Yes, my aux starter solenoid is right there on the pass side frame. Easier to reach from underneath than from above thru the doghouse hatch. Have checked the voltage there and it appears I don't have the 12v on the signal wire to close that solenoid at ignition start. I'm going to look at the key switch on the steering column since have already replaced the ignition switch. thanks...Andy OK, try this and on the ignition Switch itself put 12vdc on the wire going to the aux. solenoid, to see if it's intact and will actually close the solenoid. Also verify if the sw. has 12v supply voltage to begin with, so if and when it does close with the key, you'll have it at the aux. If so, then that sw. is probably faulty and sometimes just rattling the control rod, from the key lock makes it contact. Earlier you said your old P30 chassis had a rod between the key lock cylinder and the ignition switch. Mine has a plastic rod called an ignition switch actuator. I was doing some on-line troubleshooting last night with my Nephew in MO. He runs a locksmith shop and does a lot of key lock cylinder replacements. He remembered a lot of Fords have that actuator, so we did an F53 ignition diagram check on PartsGeek, and there it was. I need to get over to the Bounder in storage and see if I can access the ignition switch and slide the tab forward/down all the way with the key on and see if it starts. Appreciate all your time and insight. I'll let you know if I am successful.975Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Mar 09, 202538,709 Posts
