All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 2015 Wrangler Unlimited questionsI have a 2009 Jeep JK 2-door with the black soft top in Phoenix AZ. AC works great, cabin is usually ice cold within a few minutes even on 110+ degree days. -JBShould I add a receiver riser?Greetings again, forum. I have a 2009 Jeep Wrangler (2-door) that I tow behind my 2008 Forest River class C. I recently put a 3-inch lift on the Jeep plus larger tires, making the net bumper height increase about 4 inches. That means the angle of my Blue OX tow bar will be steeper. Should I worry about that and add a receiver riser to offset the height difference? Thanks in advance for your thoughts and opinions. -JBRe: possible bad converterWell that was it. New converter works fine, no electrical problems since. Battery is full and charged while plugged in, and it works dry for a day or so before needing to run the generator. I did find one loose wire near the breaker box that I tightened, may have been the cause of some of the other symptoms. Thanks all, this forum is great. -JBRe: possible bad converter PUCampin wrote: I recommend a Progressive dynamics PD9145c, can be easily found for under $150. Yup. Ordered that exact one. Somehow, Amazon is going to get it here today. Not sure how they do that. Amazon Prime is a great thing. -JBRe: possible bad converter tenbear wrote: LarryJM wrote: bluegypsy wrote: I know this is a simple thing, but I suggest you loosen, "wiggle", and re-tighten all of your battery connections. I had a similar problem that turned out to be a resistance problem across some of the battery connections. The rig's power monitor showed good voltage, but under load I experienced many of the symptoms you describe. This is something I too think should be carefully checked. A lot of connections are screw type and often are not properly tightened at the factory or have worked loose causing all sorts of issues. Larry I agree. I wouldn't spend the money for a new converter without making sure the wiring wasn't the problem. +1 Well I crawled into the storage area where the converter is mounted early this morning and checked everything that looked like it might wiggle loose. Nothing there. Then I traced the line under the chassis to the battery compartment, nothing there either. I came across a box mounted to the outside of the battery box labeled "battery control center" with a few fuses inside, no loose wires, no blown fuses that I could tell. Looks like something to control power to the slide-out motor. But again, nothing loose that I could see. -JBRe: possible bad converterWell now it doesn't seem to matter if the battery is connected or not, the whole 12v system won't work. If I try to turn on anything 12v the 120v cuts out. Weird. I'm going to replace the converter and see what happens. -JBRe: possible bad converter tenbear wrote: CactusJoe wrote: tenbear wrote: CactusJoe wrote: Well I disconnected the battery and now everything seems to work fine. No dimming, etc. Looks like I'll be replacing the converter. Does this mean you are using the battery without the converter, or, the converter without the battery? If I read it correctly it seems like the battery is disconnected so it is running off the converter??? I disconnected the battery but left it plugged into shore power and everything seems to work fine now. -JB To me that indicates the battery, not the converter, is the problem. If you would, measure the converter output voltage and the disconnected battery voltage. Voltage from the converter = 7v Voltage from the disconnected battery = 12.3v Should the 12v system still work with the battery disconnected while plugged into shore power? -JBRe: possible bad converter tenbear wrote: CactusJoe wrote: Well I disconnected the battery and now everything seems to work fine. No dimming, etc. Looks like I'll be replacing the converter. Does this mean you are using the battery without the converter, or, the converter without the battery? If I read it correctly it seems like the battery is disconnected so it is running off the converter??? I disconnected the battery but left it plugged into shore power and everything seems to work fine now. EDIT: Well maybe I spoke too soon. Everything 120v works fine but nothing 12v works. When I try to turn on a 12v light the AC cuts out and the CO sensor faults. I'm guessing that's because the house battery is disconnected...? -JBRe: possible bad converter bluegypsy wrote: I know this is a simple thing, but I suggest you loosen, "wiggle", and re-tighten all of your battery connections. I had a similar problem that turned out to be a resistance problem across some of the battery connections. The rig's power monitor showed good voltage, but under load I experienced many of the symptoms you describe. Good call, I'll do that first.Re: possible bad converterWell I disconnected the battery and now everything seems to work fine. No dimming, etc. Looks like I'll be replacing the converter.