All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Any experience with GM rear view camera ?Thank you both for the reply. Yes, the connection plug is located above the 7 way connector near the truck hitch. So 35 feet will be close. I certainly hope the cable is 60 feet, it makes much more sense. I was getting the 35 feet from a GMC dealer parts department, but they were going off of their personal experience with their own purchase a few years ago. I tried looking at the GM part on GM part websites (I am not sure if those websites are GM sites, but they sell original OEM parts ??) - anyway I could not see a cable length listed. My truck is the new 2022 and not the limited 2022. So it has a completely new user interface and larger screen, etc. So far I am very impressed with the camera controls on the screen for existing cameras on the truck, I really want the backup trailer camera on the same interface. thanks again.Any experience with GM rear view camera ?I just bought a 2022 GMC Sierra 1500 and am using it to tow our RV travel trailer. I would like to add a rear view camera on the back of my trailer that will project on the infotainment screen. With my previous truck I was using a Furrion aftermarket camera on the RV, but that requires its own monitor which isn't that good. My local GM dealer indicates the rear camera from GM is on backorder and it is also limited by its 35 foot cable. My trailer is about 29 feet and I think 35 will not be quite enough. A few questions: 1) is an extension cable available / possible if I buy the GM camera, 2) are there off brand cameras available that may have a longer cable? thank you.Re: Newbie Question on wi-fi brholt wrote: ccjack wrote: I am new to RVing and have a question on wi-fi. Our new TT came with a Winegard air 360+. My understanding is it is a HD TV antenna but also has wi-fi router capability. We would need to purchase an additional gaetway router that installs inside the RV for $300. My question is what does this do? The air360+ pulls a wifi signal from the campground (as an example - the campground would provide log in info?) and then the $300 router serves as a booster for the area around our individual TT? Can't you just use the campground wifi without a router? This is unrelated to any co-ax cable connectors on the outside of the TT, correct? The Winegard is not connected to any coax cable in the TT correct? I am a bit confused as to what we should buy or not. thanks. We have the Air360+ and the Gateway modem. The Gateway unit adds additional antennas for both wifi and cellular signals. Our experience is that: - TV reception is not pretty good but do not expect it to compete with directional antennas. - WiFi is able to pull in signals our iPhones can not but most campground wifi isn’t very good. - We have been impressed with the ability to grab cell signals. As an example, we were at a harvest host farm who claimed they had not been able to get cell service but we were able to get AT&T. This has repeatedly been our experience. I attribute it to the multiple antennas and the rooftop location. Note that I believe the Gateway is only a cat4 modem so it is never supper fast. WiFi Ranger sells their Osprey unit to go with the Air360+ which can be obtained as cat6 or cat12 units so they may be much faster though I don’t know if the Osprey adds antennas like the Gateway does. Overall we have been pleased with the unit and it has given us data in a wide variety of place our phones have not been able to. thank you all for the responses, they are helpful. One question about the Osprey vs. Gateway. My understanding is the antennas are already in the Air360+ and they are just not active unless you add the gateway. So is it possible the Osprey would offer faster wifi plus utilize the wifi antennas already in the 360+ I am not sure of the wiring and hookup for the Osprey... thanks.Newbie Question on wi-fiI am new to RVing and have a question on wi-fi. Our new TT came with a Winegard air 360+. My understanding is it is a HD TV antenna but also has wi-fi router capability. We would need to purchase an additional gaetway router that installs inside the RV for $300. My question is what does this do? The air360+ pulls a wifi signal from the campground (as an example - the campground would provide log in info?) and then the $300 router serves as a booster for the area around our individual TT? Can't you just use the campground wifi without a router? This is unrelated to any co-ax cable connectors on the outside of the TT, correct? The Winegard is not connected to any coax cable in the TT correct? I am a bit confused as to what we should buy or not. thanks.Re: Newbie - electrical question, 12V not workingSuccess ! thank you all for replying. Running a ground cable from battery to interior of TT allowed me to verify all of the hot wires (at disconnect and at fuse box) were all good - 13V to true battery ground. However, the red wire in the fuse box measured to the ground wire in the fuse box read 0, so the problem was the ground/ negative wires. Problem was in the electrical box mounted to the frame. The negative cable from batt. went in and had a ring terminal that was connected to nothing. the ring terminal was sort of resting against the wall of the box. All other wires were connected to each other, etc. (I had earlier checked that box, but it was packed with wires and I missed the loose one in the back.) I mounted it with a ground screw to the box and appears all is working well.Re: Newbie - electrical question, 12V not working opnspaces wrote: ccjack wrote: Update. The two big red cables going into the back of the disconnect switch show continuity when in the "on" pulled out position. So I do not think the switch is bad. How much will it cost you in gas and time lost to take it to the dealer. I would go the Home Depot and buy a 50 foot roll of 16 or 14 gauge wire for $20. Hook one end to the negative terminal of the battery. This is now your ground wire for your meter. I would not focus on continuity but rather on voltage. Take a measure from positive at the battery to the end of your new negative ground wire and remember that number. Now measure for voltage at various points going back to the fuse box. Every voltage check should be within a tenth of a volt of battery voltage. Check the posts on the circuit breaker. Check the big red wires on the back of the battery shutoff. You should get battery voltage with each check. If there is battery voltage at the big switch and no voltage at the breaker panel. If that is the case can you open a door or remove a drawer to be able to look into the cabinet and the back of the panel? Unplug any power and stick your hand in there and feel for loose wires. If you have to then take the 4 to six screws holding the panel in place and pull the panel out of the cabinet. that is a good suggestion, I will try. the reason I checked continuity on the disconnect switch, is I could barely reach one arm back there to reach it, and I could hold my probes like chopsticks and get the two contacts. Putting one probe on a ground up there was too difficult! Aux cable from batter as you suggest solves that problem plus guarantees you are measuring to battery ground. This TT is mid kitchen. So the convenience panel is about 5 feet from the fuse panel, wires would go through cabinet (with water heater) then under stove and then to fuse under fridge.Re: Newbie - electrical question, 12V not workingUpdate. My 12V was still not working in the TT today. I removed the battery and took to an autoparts store and it checked out fine. 12.7v, and 512 CC. I reinstalled the battery. I also measure 13V (12.7 with my other meter at the battery when installed.) There are two small terminal boxes (ciruit breakers?) mounted to the trailer frame near the battery. Each has 2 posts. All 4 posts measure 12.7 V to frame and the two posts on each breaker show continuity between the posts, so I think those are all good. Everything in front of the trailer on the A frame is measuring 12.7V, at least until the cables go up into the underbelly. Inside the TT under the fridge is the fusebox. I removed the cover. All of the breakers are on. I measure 0 volts between the big red cable coming into the top of the DC fuses and big white cable coming in the other side top of the row of fuses. I measure 0 volts there with the disconnect switch in either in or out position. so I suspected the disconnect switch. I did not want to remove the convenience panel (mounted on the cabinets by the exterior door), however, I could see the back terminals of the disconnect switch when looking under the sink. The two big red cables going into the back of the disconnect switch show continuity when in the "on" pulled out position. So I do not think the switch is bad. So I am out of ideas, I think I need to take the rig into a dealer since it is under warranty. Somewhere between the battery area and the fusebox there is a break. Unless there is a breaker somewhere that I am unaware of.Re: Newbie - electrical question, 12V not workingthank you all for great advice. a couple comments... I definitely do not want to modify something and void my warranty. However, would be good to know what the cause is or sequence of events that cause it. I do not want to haul my rig into the shop (at least an hour drive) they try it for 5 minutes, it works, and they send me away. We did a complete inspection and 12V worked before we left the sellers lot, but intermittent issue got us. My meter is a Fluke T5-600. Been very reliable, but it is not new - maybe it is getting old and slightly out of cal? It did read 13 and not 13.0, this meter auto scales, I cannot change the scale, I believe it would display 12.6 if it were 12.6. I do have a cheaper meter, maybe I double check with that one. We do not have a solar panel. We do not have shore power available at the storage site and it really does not work well bringing home with our driveway busy street layout of our home, etc. I will do some more investigating this weekend.Re: Newbie - electrical question, 12V not workingshadow cruiser 257MKS by Cruiser RVRe: Newbie - electrical question, 12V not workingOh that could be. Are those all in the fuse panel, or any up front by the battery... HOw would I check those? I did locate two small inline devices near the batter mounted to the frame. I thought they might be current limiting fuses or something. I did not know they could auto reset. I did measure the continuity between the two terminals on these devices and it read continuity. However, I don't recall if I measured them when the 12V was working or not working, I think when it was working. If that is the issue, that means a short somewhere else, correct?