blkfe
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Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Using the 240 VAC output from a C46540 thru a transfer switch for home power loss is akin to trying to pull your camper with a tricycle. You would be much better off to just use extension cords to needed appliances. Each leg of the 240 VAC output max'es out at 13 amps. Or...You can do what I did and set up the transfer switch for 120VAC from the 30 amp output of the Champion. I changed the amp meter pickup coil locations as well. I had nothing in my house which needed the 240 VAC anyway...at least not during a power outage.. Brad414Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
olephart wrote: It can get tricky if you are hooking to your home to power stuff during power outages. The main service likely has 2 independent 120V buses. You probably have 120V circuits on both buses that you want to use. How do ya run one hot wire to both buses without booby trapping something? The reason I use a Reliance transfer switch is cuz it doesn't care which main service bus bar the circuits are on. Just pick the 120V circuits you want to use and wire them per directions. No 240V circuits allowed even though the transfer switch can do it. The switch also physically removes the circuits from the rest of the main panel when in use. You simply can not back feed the other 120V circuits or energize 240V circuits accidentally. The thing ya have to deal with is the Reliance is also a split bus device, just like the main service. Ya still need to feed 120V to both buses and ya only have one hot leg from the RV circuit. The transfer switch uses a 4 prong twist lock just like the 240V generator outlet. Somewhere between the generator RV plug and the Reliance bus bars you will have to split the single 120V hot leg to feed both bus bars. I chose to replace the female end of of the RV cable with a 4 prong plug that fits the transfer switch. I used a short #10 jumper wire to connect both hot terminals in the new plug. This routes the single hot leg from the RV plug to both hot legs of the 4 prong plug. When connected, it energizes both bus bars of the transfer switch. This left the generator and transfer switch completely unmodified - no traps for future unsuspecting people. The RV to 4 prong cable is labeled with a warning. Should someone manage to hook the cable to something with an active 240V circuit, sparks will fly. As usual, there are other methods to get the job done. What you discribe is EXACTLY what I have done and it works perfict. Brad351Views0likes0CommentsRe: The Official unofficial CPE 2000i Generator Thread
professor95 wrote: Old & Slow wrote: For the most part, I do not respond to this type post. However, since a question was ask, here we go. I am not the best at checking out the profile of any poster, I would say, just average. It's quite easy these days to google any name, just key in any name, and up comes results. When the name you left in your profile of 'Dudley Przemek' is keyed in, no results. Floyd, Why do you insist on doing this to anyone who is new to the forums and mentions Champion products? It is really insulting to any one that wants to join the discussion and often turns them off to the point that they decided to not return. Thus, we lose yet another valuable perspective. When Dennis posted he clearly identified himself and relationship to CPE. There was no question of deception. His post was later edited by our moderator as company representatives promoting their product are prohibited from the Forum. What was questionable about the post? The truth is that Champion has no reason or purpose of creating "plants" on this forum or any other to boost their product image. If you like doing searches, see what brand marques come up the most often on RV.net and you will quickly see that it is ludicrous to think that Honda, Yamaha, Champion or Kipor would even remotely think about such behavior. For gosh sakes, apologize to these people and let it go! Never thought of googleing (spelling?) me before...I now play the cello!!! lol..brad539Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
jlaustin wrote: professor95 wrote: ... Throwing it in the junk yard would be easy, but it would be a mark of defeat ... Hey, Professor, don't talk him out of tossing it in the junkyard - I was going to find out how close he is to me in Tennessee and follow him to the junkyard!:B You know how I love a challenge! HAHA! Regards, John lol............219Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: pritch272 wrote: Ken-55 wrote: Snake oil?? or would this help get an A/C unit to start if you were right at the edge?? http://www.macroplusintl.com/Products/PowerSaver/power_savers_main.html Not sure... SNIP I'm sure the Professor will have some input on this, looking forward to it. The Intelliworks Energy Saver Unit reduces the amount of power drawn from the utility by storing (in its capacitors) otherwise lost and wasted electricity (watts) caused by the inductive appliances in your home. Read the above several times. Does it really make any sense? You can charge a capacitor from a power source and use that stored power to give a kick start to an inductive device. Without the capacitor some of the power used to get the device moving is dissipated as heat, which is not a needed form of energy. Unless you are constantly stopping and starting large inductive devices that the manufacturer has not properly designed, this device would be redundant and un-needed. IMPO, the inductive devices in a residence and RV are already designed for optimum energy use. The energy stored in the advertised device's capacitors comes from the utility to start with - which you pay for. The concept of an add-on device such as this actually reducing the power consumed by an inductive device to the point of saving enough money on ones electrical bill to justify the cost of the device(s) is unlikely. My vote is Snake oil :) I always wanted to "run the numbers" on this one as far as would it be practical to use power factor correction in a residential situation? Common sense tells me it's a waist of time but it is used quite often in manufacturering plants. They, however, use muliphase power and usually have large inductive loads.(electric motors). The question is what is the common range of power factor numbers for a standard home running single phase 220? .7 - .8 might be worth it. Hmmmm...Maybe create some type of chart or graph...... Brad276Views0likes0CommentsRe: The Official unofficial CPE 2000i Generator Thread
curt12914 wrote: Those of you that are thinking of using a tire valve, might consider a rear tractor tire valve. Since tractor tires commonly use a water/calcium chloride mixture for ballast inside the tube (or sometimes tubeless), the threaded valves are removable and replaceable. A nipple could be installed in the tank and a valve easily threaded into the nipple (adaptors may be needed). The valves are available from anyone that sells or works on rear tractor tires. They are realtively inexpensive. You just gave me an idea.... Brad248Views0likes0CommentsRe: The Official unofficial CPE 2000i Generator Thread
professor95 wrote: blkfe wrote: I put a bung on the bottom of my marine tank and it solved the problem. Brad Well, Brad, the last "bung" I remember seeing was in a whiskey barrel sitting on a rack in Lynchburg, Tennessee. So, this old man is thinking about Jack Daniels, not gasohol. Would you mind explaining your bung? :) Hmm....Ya, well, I looked it up. LOL Definition of BUNG 1: the stopper especially in the bunghole of a cask; also : bunghole 2: the cecum or anus especially of a slaughtered animal I would like to revise my choice of words. I removed the suction tube from the top of the tank and installed an outlet on the bottom. In my own defense, it was a term I picked up when I used to work on large commercial spray tanks for ag use. Better? Brad201Views0likes0Comments
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