Ron_Nielson
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Joined 18 years ago
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Re: Can't find skylight replacement 14x20
I also broke my skylight on my Arctic fox 29-5T, same rough opening measurements 14X20. Northwood wouldn't even tell me what the original part number was - call the dealer they said. Dealer is out of business. Yes, tough to find a skylight that fits. If anyone has their original part number, please post it.885Views0likes0CommentsRe: HVAC - No Compressor run
A new thermostat arrived today and I installed it. The new one is similar but not the same as the older unit. I now have B+Voltage on the cooling request line but now it's the board that is not functioning correctly. Just ordered a new board and it should arrive in the next week or so. Might even get an RV trip in after the HVAC is running again. Wouldn't that be nice?883Views0likes0CommentsRe: HVAC - No Compressor run
wnjj Again, thanks for the info. Would you happen to know the part number for the relay? (jt box 8330-385) I have never soldered on a circuit board but I have a brother-in-law who builds electrical devices. His job is to repair stun guns and police body cameras so he is well prepared for the task.882Views0likes0CommentsRe: HVAC - No Compressor run
Ron Nielson wrote: dougrainer wrote: Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug I would like to temporarily wire around the relay long enough to verify that the compressor will physically run. I think I just need to add a short connecting wire between the 110V input and the relay output circuit. Don't know what I might be doing to the balance of the board, if anything, just don't want sparks and fire. OK to do that? Yes, I will test the actual output of the thermostat by disconnecting that wire from the board. The compressor runs fine. Nice to see that I don't have to buy a new HVAC system, although I would prefer to have a 15K instead of the current 13.5K. I'm now thinking that both the thermostat and the board (maybe just the relay?) are bad. The new thermostat should arrive in a couple of days.881Views0likes0CommentsRe: HVAC - No Compressor run
wnjj wrote: When you jumped to the Y terminal, was the thermostat still connected to Y? If so it may have been pulling that down too much. While you are jumpered, trying checking the voltage on the Y terminal at the compressor. The opposite could also be true. Perhaps the relay coil at the compressor is shorted and pulls any source down. Try measuring the Y output from the thermostat with nothing connected to it. Thanks for that idea. I have checked and there is no voltage (well, .05V this morning) when the line from the thermostat is disconnected from the board terminal. And I know that if I wire around the relay, the compressor runs.881Views0likes0CommentsRe: HVAC - No Compressor run
dougrainer wrote: Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug I would like to temporarily wire around the relay long enough to verify that the compressor will physically run. I think I just need to add a short connecting wire between the 110V input and the relay output circuit. Don't know what I might be doing to the balance of the board, if anything, just don't want sparks and fire. OK to do that? Yes, I will test the actual output of the thermostat by disconnecting that wire from the board.881Views0likes0CommentsRe: HVAC - No Compressor run
Ranger That's exactly what I did. Jumped 12V from GH (and GL separately) to the Y terminal and there was no response. I have the situation where one test would indicate that the board has failed (the above test) and another test would indicate that the thermostat has failed (only .8V on the Y term supplied by the thermostat). Seems like an impossible situation unless both the board and the thermostat are defective. I have ordered a thermostat to see if that fixes the problem. Like I previously said, they're only $20 or so and I need to get this thing fixed. If it turns out that that a new thermostat produces the correct result, I'm done, otherwise, I'll see if I can find a new board. They're pretty scarce right now.881Views0likes0CommentsRe: HVAC - No Compressor run
Thanks for the replies. I have been reading Doug for years and appreciate all the help he has offered. One thing that quite surprises me is that the signal from the thermostat to the C term on the unit has no(.8V) voltage on it. I expected to find a B+ voltage there. Why no voltage?217Views0likes0Comments
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