All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Should I Buy The Dealer's Hitch Thomas/NH wrote: Remember what I said: Not all F150s are equal. There are the "Air Haulers" and then there are the work horses. Since my trucks have to work every day with either the service cap/tools or hauling my trailers. I also haul a 5-ton dump trailer at least once a month. My last Heavy Duty F150 hauled my Reflection 313 RLS (11,000 lbs.) 37,000 miles and it had 1,400 lbs. tongue wight. The truck had more advanced electronics, a better ride, better mileage and a better safety (that truck actually cared who was riding in which seat). My F350 (same trim level) is such a dumb truck and its 5 years newer. Short of my $10,000 Diesel option both trucks cost about the same. Make no mistake about it, you will most defiantly need an equalizing hitch for that trailer for either truck. Here's a little more information for you... The reason I stepped up from the F150 (Eco-boost) to a F250 (6.0) was because I noticed the receiver hitch was distorting from hauling the heavy trailer (1400 lbs. tongue weigh). Crawling under the truck for a close inspection I noticed the hitch was stamped with a 1000 lbs. hitch/10,000 gorss capacity (class 4 I think). I traded in the truck for the F250 with the same trim level. After 10K of towing I noticed that hitch with (2-1/2" reviver) was also distorting. On close inspection it was also stamped with the same rating, it just looked beefier. The F350 has done a much better job towing, but it's equipped with B&W 30K Gooseball. The receiver hitch only gets used for the smaller trailers and I suspect it is the same class 4 hitch, which is fine.Re: Should I Buy The Dealer's Hitch DallasSteve wrote: Thomas/NH wrote: Having towed with several F150s (hundred of thousands miles), it's a better truck than the Super Duty. I have had 3 Super Duty's. My current one is a F350/PS 6.7 Lariat and I tow 42' fifth-wheel and it's one hell of a good truck, but the last F150 was a better truck all around (except capacity & power). Keep in mind, that there are F150s and then their are F150s. You need to buy a truck properly equipped to tow the load you have. Thomas Thanks for the feedback. It seems like I need the F250 for this much trailer, but your comment concerns me. (In case you missed it the trailer is a max weight of 9,000 pounds- 7,760 empty) Why do you think the F150 is a better truck? Will I regret stepping up to the F250? Remember what I said: Not all F150s are equal. There are the "Air Haulers" and then there are the work horses. Since my trucks have to work every day with either the service cap/tools or hauling my trailers. I also haul a 5-ton dump trailer at least once a month. My last Heavy Duty F150 hauled my Reflection 313 RLS (11,000 lbs.) 37,000 miles and it had 1,400 lbs. tongue wight. The truck had more advanced electronics, a better ride, better mileage and a better safety (that truck actually cared who was riding in which seat). My F350 (same trim level) is such a dumb truck and its 5 years newer. Short of my $10,000 Diesel option both trucks cost about the same. Make no mistake about it, you will most defiantly need an equalizing hitch for that trailer for either truck.Re: Leak down test on the LP gas system, leak detected.Running LP at high altitude is more a problem of getting the liquid in the tanks to flash-up to a gas. The regulator will do it's best to compensate, but if there is little pressure in the tank it won't work. Readjust the pressure is a bad idea for when you return to lower levels. Short-term heating the tank would work, long-term (stationary appliances) changing the orifices is what we do. You probably wouldn't like the way I heat the tanks; I use a torch (yes and open flame on the tank) and no I haven't blown up yet (I've been doing this job for 54 years). I guess you need to know how and where to put the flame. Yup, 12" WC is pretty close to a half pound, but that's a real pour way of measuring it.Re: Leak down test on the LP gas system, leak detected.The operating pressure for liquid petroleum or LP gas appliance is 10" - 11" of water column. Going above that pressure you can rupture the pressure regulators in the appliances. I shut off the gas valves and test the lines at 5 PSI for 20 min. I'm a licensed gas technician.Re: Should I Buy The Dealer's Hitch mkirsch wrote: If you're willing to pay the $1000's extra for an F250 over an F150, then why are you quibbling over the $300 of shop time to have the hitch installed? That's 2 hours of shop time these days, which is about right. Say what??? When was the last time you went truck shopping? There is very little differnce between the 150s and the 250 or the 350 set up the same. Availability of trucks is another issue. Yes, I've been shopping and very discouraged by the lack of inventory. My local Ford dealer usually has hundreds of trucks on the lot, only had 6 Super dutys and 35 F150s.Re: Should I Buy The Dealer's HitchI've never towed with an Equal-i-zer hitch, I'm a Reese dual-cam guy (had several of them due to the heavy tongue weight of my Reflections). I think Equal-i-zer is the most popular since that what dealers push. However, they are very noisy, my traveling companion has one on his Airstream/Mercedes. I can tell he's arrived as soon as he pulls into the campground. That's his number 1 complaint with it and it's hard to snap-up (yes, he does use the tongue jack as well). The only thing to caution you about is: height of hitch receiver on a F250. You'll probably need a long drop shank. Having towed with several F150s (hundred of thousands miles), it's a better truck than the Super Duty. I have had 3 Super Duty's. My current one is a F350/PS 6.7 Lariat and I tow 42' fifth-wheel and it's one hell of a good truck, but the last F150 was a better truck all around (except capacity & power). Keep in mind, that there are F150s and then their are F150s. You need to buy a truck properly equipped to tow the load you have. As far as having the dealer supply and install the hitch... There are a lot of things you don't know about setting it up properly and it will make all the difference in your towing experience.Re: Albany NY to Newport, VT Matt_Colie wrote: dedmiston wrote: Matt_Colie wrote: Do you mean Newport VA (Virginia) or UT (Utah)? Have you tried Google Maps? They aren't the best, but are usually up to date. Matt Utah is landlocked. I don't think there is a Newport, Utah. I would not have asked if I did not know it was a nice section of Bountiful UT. Matt You won't have any trouble with US Rt.7, it's the major north/south highway. Well, at least to Vermont standards, it an improved 2 lane road. This route takes you right up the Champlain valley (outstanding scenery). Once you make it to Burlington get on I89 east to Waterbury, then get on Rt. 100 north to Newport. I don't know what kind of rig you have, but I doubt you'll have any trouble with this route. However, you should be aware that there are not many campgrounds in VT. and they mostly cater to smaller rigs and tents. Make your reservations early and specify your size and space requirements. I'm a native Vermonter (living in NH) I go there every year for family gatherings and I'm always astounded lack of CG and the condition of them. There are some new ones that are really nice, but I end up driving 30-40 miles to get to see my family.Re: Albany NY to Newport, VTThe fastest and easiest way is: From Albany get on I90 east to Springfield MA then onto I91 north. It goes right though Newport VT. The alternative is US route 7 from Albany follow it through to the Northeast Kingdom...(this is a very long ride, but interesting)Re: What are Smart Tips to set up Outlook email?This is a timely post indeed. I've been using MS Office-Outlook on all my devices. I use it because of my business, it's makes it easy to move my work from one application to another. It works great on my office computer, my laptop and tablet, but not my phone (Android based). It links up to my "Live" account but not to my "Comcast" account. So, for years now I've been trying to "sync" my accounts (I get a daily reminder from MS-Outlook). I sure could use some technological help. I get by this problem by telling my clients to use my "Live" account if I'm out on the road.Re: washer and dryer or combo Dick_B wrote: Seems to me that unless one is spending a lot of time on the road, or if the other half really objects to the local laundromat, a washer/dryer is a very heavy option. If you ever spend any applicable time in “laundry hell” you can’t appreciate the value of owning your own equipment. It’s not all about you. Think about someone else.
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts
RV Newbies We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Mar 08, 20254,028 Posts