Frankandbeans
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Joined 12 years ago
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Re: GEL Coat options on new to us camper
I highly doubt your gelcoat is burned off. More than likely it's faded and needs to be buffed out. You will need: A quality buffer (Porter Cable 7424xp or such) A good cutting compound A good polishing compound A ton of microfiber towels And a lot, a lot, of elbow grease, time, and patience. But it definitely can be done as I did it to my 2005 Forest River.869Views0likes0CommentsRe: Winterizing Atwood water heater
So Forest River did SOMETHING right! There was an access hole cut out of the plywood bed frame. Lifted the mattress, and there was the back side of the heater. 3 valves total, one cold, one hot, and one in the middle that connected between the hot and cold. Pretty easy to figure out, turned off the cold and hot lines, turned on the 3rd valve so that the water flow bypassed the heater altogether.306Views0likes0CommentsWinterizing Atwood water heater
My last toy hauler with the Suburban type water heater was easy. I drained the tank, and under the kitchen sink, there was a shut off valve on the back side of the water heater. Then I winterized the lines like normal. But for the life of me, I can't find a shut off valve for this thing. I've checked all the easily accessible areas but I'm not seeing anything. Trailer in question is a 2015 Work and Play 26 UDT. I know the Atwood's do not have the anode rod, and I've already drained the hot water heater. I do have a city water adapter that can hook into my air compressor. Theoretically, if there's no water in the lines, there's nothing to freeze. Does anyone winterize their RV's this way? I'd still pour some anti freeze in the traps and such just for good measure (and since I already bought it).1.6KViews0likes5CommentsRe: Quality water pump
New pump fixed the problem. Purchased Shurflo's water pump quieting kit...best money ever spent. Ever. Ended up putting both 3 foot sections of hose on the output of the water pump, giving it 6 feet of flexible hose before going into the hard line. The reduction in noise is nothing short of incredible.609Views0likes0CommentsRe: Quality water pump
Ok, did some more testing. The screen before the pump had a couple of small particles in it, but nothing I thought would restrict as much water flow as it has. Cleaned it out anyways, no change. After reading the replies on here and looking at my setup some more, I'm pretty sure I got it figured out. The 90 degree valve by the dump tank valves looks like it closes off the hose that connects to the bottom of the fresh water tank, so that you can bypass the fresh water tank when winterizing it. Makes sense. I put a bucket of water in there and had the valve so it would suck water from the bucket instead of the tank. Same low pressure. So, to me, that's saying the line from there to the fresh water tank is not the problem (no debris in there). Screen cleaned but made no difference. Hooked city water up again just for the heck of it, water pressure is great in everything (shower/toilet/sinks). One thing I did not try, which I didn't think of until just now, is putting my air compressor from the winterization hook up part and seeing if there's any obstructions in that section of hose to where the water pump inlet goes. I will have my wife assist with that. Assuming that's clear, it has to be the pump. There's nothing else in the system. The pump and everything has already been pulled. Once I figure out the hose is clear, it's just a matter of replacing the pump. As always...input is always welcome!610Views0likes0CommentsRe: Quality water pump
Water pressure from all points are weak at best, including the toilet. Makes it hard for me to believe it'd be debris causing low water pressure (what's the chance of debris getting in every single outlet)? I will have to try the winterizing tube trick. Don't know what's involved. To Google I go...609Views0likes0Comments
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