SRockwood
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Re: Slide or not to slide
Slides don't add as much weight as you would think. All you're adding, weight-wise, is the mechanism and side walls, roof and floor that extend into the coach when in, the exterior wall is going to be there anyway. Since most slides are between the axles, a couple of hundred pounds isn't a huge deal for most motorhomes. Adding 4' to the coach is likely more weight than most slides, and the unit with the slide will still feel bigger.1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Onan Gen Mobil 1 0W-40 vs 10W-40 HM Oil Analysis
tpi wrote: Thanks for the report! A week ago I did oil change with Mobil 1 0W40. The one minor concern I have is shearing and good to see it is holding up. One thing I've meant to do and will is dip the crankcase with thermometer and check oil temperatures more frequently. Especially during extended runs in 100+ degree weather. One time I did after about 45 minutes powering my roof air in 80 degree weather measured about 175. My friend has a larger twin cylinder Onan we dipped after an extended highway drive in 100 degree weather powering two roof airs. Oil temp was 235-240. Airflow through his Onan may or may not be optimum. I certainly think the 0W40 is perfectly suitable for the Onan provided oil temperatures are not getting out of hand. The vehicles and conditions it is rated for are very demanding. And this report bears it out. However I will watch oil temps more carefully and if the Onan is generating oil temps frequently in the 245-to 300F (Harley Vtwin) range I'd be open to go to XW50 oils. I cannot see any reason why this 0W40 would be inferior to any 30 weight in this application-as it remained a 40 weight in the report. I use the RV four seasons and encounter 20 degrees F or lower. For sake of starter and starter drive I prefer to have the engine spin over as easily as possible. Still maintaining protection in hot weather. Thinner oils generally stay cooler though, so you may be robbing Peter to pay Paul here.836Views0likes0CommentsRe: Shock Replacement - Any Experience with these?
I've used KYBs in the past and they work well, but a Gas-A-Just is a twin tube lower end shock, where a Bilstein is a monotube higher end shock. Bilstein will be the better shock. Whether it rides better or not depends on your opinion and desired outcome. No experience with motorhomes, but most KYBs I'ves used were a little firm in compression and loose in rebound, making the ride a little more bouncy than the "euro-firm" feel of a Bilstein.191Views0likes0CommentsRe: LED light upgrade in my Class C
You could also throw something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-5050-White-Landscaping-Light/dp/B00K67ULV0/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1444142464&sr=8-11&keywords=RV+LED+light+5050 Into your existing housings. The flat pancake style ones work better than the round ones, and make sure they're 5050 LEDs or higher if you want them bright. I replaced half of mine with 5050s, the other half with 3528s when I didn't need as much light.624Views0likes0CommentsRe: EGR valve replacement 1997 Ford E350 V-10
jillhop wrote: Thanks for the input. A couple of questions: rockhillmanor: I think the code is real. When it came on just before my last trip, I think I felt a slight hesitation just before the light came on. The new mechanic read the code, turned off the light, and I went on my way. Drove 250 miles, camped for the night, then 10 minutes into my drive the next morning the light came on again. Drove about an hour to the next show (from Morris & Essex to Hatboro, if you're a dog show person), then yesterday drove 250 miles home. If the computer just needed to "clear", would it have gone all that time before the light came on again? This may be a stupid question ... carringb: Is there a way for the mechanic to determine if it's the EGR valve vs. the sensor? The link he posted walks you through the method you would use to determine if the sensor is faulty. If the sensor checks out, use deductive reasoning. :B745Views0likes0CommentsRe: Car tie down and transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL?
We Cant Wait wrote: Rather then using car hauler straps over the wheels, use a good commercial quality ratchet strap hooked to the frame of the car and the bed of the trl in an "X" pattern on both the front and rear of the car. This will stop the problem of body bounce which will effect how the trl tows behind the MH. Unless you put some serious load on those straps, this will result in the car moving up and down from bumps in the road, making the straps go temporarily loose, then tight and back again. Eventually, one or more straps will get loose and you'll have a moving car. This is especially true for vehicles with loads of suspension travel (off-road buggies, trucks, Jeeps, etc) or stiff spring rates (racecars), as there's just no way you're gonna be able to crank down on the straps hard enough to keep it from bouncing a little down the road. Surest way to make sure it's secure is to strap the wheels down. I usually just run a standard strap through the spokes with a couple of shop rags wrapped around the CLEAN spoke for strap and wheel protection. Make sure to feed it through the gap in the spokes NEAREST to the tie down point or you'll have problems. You can also connect the strap to the suspension on the tire side, or over the axle if it's a solid axle vehicle. Just be wary of damaging components and for your hook slipping off or up the control arm. Once your straps are on and snug (not tight), put the trans in neutral and dis-engage the parking brake, then get all 4 straps tight before putting it back in park and re-engaging the brake. For the over-the-tire straps, make sure your tie-down points are in line with the wheels close enough to the tire so the straps don't interfere with body-work. Out of line will pull outward on the suspension and could cause alignment problems.795Views0likes0CommentsRe: wheels on towed vehical not following in a turn
SeaDog/BRR wrote: are you pulling fuse #32 to disable the ign system and the electric power steering assist. You might want to try that This. The electric power steering system could be fighting the vehicle following a path not intended by the "driver" (steering wheel input is NULL).364Views0likes0CommentsRe: E450 Brake Master Cylinder K.I.A. ? Noooooo!!!
deprived wrote: rcmiller32 wrote: Did you bleed the master cylinder before installing it?. I did not install a new Master Cylinder, just two new front calipers. Did you let it sit long enough with the lines disconnected for air bubbles to get back up into the MC or let it run dry? If so, it still needs to be bench bled. Dumb question to try first: have you pumped the brakes up after bleeding yet?268Views0likes0Comments
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