All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Camper Tie-down Pros/Cons srschang wrote: Definitely spring for the aluminum. I had steel Torquelift tiedowns on my first two trucks, and spent lots of time trying to hammer the adapter in because the receiver rusts on the inside. Used sandpaper, files, lots of stuff to get rid of the rust in the receivers. The "aluminum" tiedowns aren't all aluminum; the part that bolts to the frame is stainless steel, the adapter is aluminum. I put them on my last few trucks, and they are maintenance free. In fact, I've used the same rear tiedowns swapping them truck to truck for my last couple trucks. I've been using the same tiedowns for 9 years or so, and they see lots of salt as I live near Buffalo, NY. Drove to Alaska and back last year, 14,000 miles on some very bad roads with our 4800# camper and they worked great! Thanks for the insight, I am just trying to get the camper winter ready and budget is tightening. Great to know that the difference is vastly superior. I like the idea of "maintenance-free" as I will have enough other things to maintain throughout the next couple years/journey.Re: Camper Tie-down Pros/ConsUPDATE: Got the camper home, minimal scuffs/scratches. Parking her at a job site for now and going to start winter-proofing next week once I get done with the hardest parts of this job. Back to my original question re:tie-downs. I priced out the frame mounts at forklift and they have two options. Steel & aluminum. Steel is around $850 for front & back. Aluminum is around $1150 for the pair. They are marketing the aluminum as Rust-proof but I believe my chassis is also steel. The plows here in CO use Mag-chloride, not salt. Is it that big of a difference between the two materials? I had been gun-ho to get the aluminum bc I tend to buy and cry one time, but I'm tempted to go with the cheaper option in this case as I might upgrade within a year or two. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. ~CorboRe: Camper Tie-down Pros/Cons JimK-NY wrote: I would look for some options. Perhaps you can find a reasonably priced and safe place to store the camper until you have a suitable truck. Another option would be to pay to have it transported. Update: I upgraded trucks, I'm running a 2016 Chevy 3500 now. I'm planning to pick up the camper this weekend. In order to transport home, would heavy duty 2k+ lb. Rated ratchet straps do the trick? I was looking at torklift.com is this the industry leader for tie downs? Definitely my next purchase once I get my next paycheck. TIARe: Camper Tie-down Pros/ConsI thought I had shared the camper make & model, but after looking through the post again I neglected to mention it. The camper topper is a 1998 Northwood Koala 850.Re: Camper Tie-down Pros/Cons joerg68 wrote: The Brophys will probably work just fine for you on paved roads. As has been said, the camper will overload your truck. This is not neccessarily a problem, but you need to know by how much, and you need to know what you are doing. Stated weights for trucks and campers are chronically "optimistic", and just adding up numbers from sales brochures or even camper placards will usually not give a reliable total weight. Only a scale knows the truth. For your own sake, you should have the rig weighed and know the actual axle weights without / with camper. The limiting factor is typically the Rear Axle Weight Rating (RAWR), which is often limited by the carrying capacity of the rear tires. That is one number you should try not to exceed. How will it handle? Depends on your driving and expectations... You say you are a carpenter and want to live in the truck. Where are your tools and how much do they weigh? Are you planning to pull a trailer? If so, the tongue weight of the trailer will reduce the available carrying capacity. Also... when you start making modifications to the camper, you will typically add more weight. I have a storage unit for now. As I upgrade the parts of my rig (the truck) I'm planning on investing in an 8x14 trailer to pull behind my rig which will hold my tools & also be able to store some materials. Also planning on installing solar arrays on both camper & trailer for off-grid energy production purposes. My thoughts were when I have a job, I can get to the job. Drop my camper off my truck, go get my tools and stage them at the site, then put the camper back on. Yes I know this is extra steps, but in the short term I'm fine with it as I typically end up on a job site for anywhere between 2 weeks and 4 months before having to move tools again. The answer seems to continue to be "I need a new truck". With that being said, what are things I should be looking for besides payload & bed-size? Thank you to everybody who has taken the time to write a response and help me wrap my head around this monumental decision.Re: Camper Tie-down Pros/Cons notsobigjoe wrote: JimK-NY wrote: You have a much bigger issue than just tiedowns. If the info I got from a google search is correct, the payload capacity of your truck is about 1400-1500#. Campers always seem to be much heavier than manufacturer specs would indicate. Plus as a full timer, you will likely have at least an additional 1000# of additional gear including clothing, food, tools, generator, lawn chairs, etc, etc. Get your new truck before you try to use your camper. When upgrading your truck, make sure it has sufficient capacity to include your plans for pimping it out. I agree with Jim, The payload is to small. Your towing capacity is huge at 9400 Lbs. but your payload is only 1400 Lbs. here's some spec from a blog I use all the time. Being in the Rockies I'm assuming it's a 4x4. https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2001-Chevrolet-Silverado+1500- LT__4x4_Extended_Cab_8_ft._box_157.5_in._WB/specs/ Even if you go with a regular cab it only bumps it up to just under 2000 Lbs. https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2001-Chevrolet-Silverado+1500-Base__4x4_Regular_Cab_8_ft._box_133_in._WB/pricing/?_contentView=true You are absolutely thinking clearly with the tie down situation. I wouldn't spend big bucks on a tie down system until the combination of truck and camper is finished. I used bumper/bed mount happijacks for years with no problem and they are easily transferable. Also I think if your super careful with the weight you should be OK. But like Jim said it adds up fast and can blow your socks off when you head to the scales for a weigh in. What camper did you get? So I did not understand the importance of payloads vs. towing capacity, but I did know that putting this camper into my truck bed was going to be a stretch. My plan is to currently get it "home" to a friend's house and store it there while I'm getting everything else set up. The responses in this thread have definitely created a sense of urgency with the truck. I think that by saving on rent, I should be able to finance a truck that fits my needs more and do so quickly. (For the record I hate the idea of financing a vehicle) That being said, I'm planning on taking the easiest (less mountainous but longer) road home. The camper is in a town 4-5 hours from where I live and I'm budgeting 8 hours to get home with it. Any suggestions or insight that I've overlooked at this point would be greatly appreciated. I'm glad that you and Jim have brought the payload issue to my attention. It's the very reason I wanted to join this forum. Thank you again, ~CorboCamper Tie-down Pros/ConsI'm just starting down this journey of truck-camper life. I managed to find a solid slide-in camper that is 1500 lbs. dry and 1900 lbs. wet for a good price. I'm looking to live in it and pimp it out (I'm a carpenter). My current vehicle is a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab. My plans include upgrading my vehicle within the next 12 months. The question comes when I'm looking at the tie-down situations. I understand that frame-mounts are MUCH sturdier, however I'm wondering if I may be able to get away with either happijacks or burphy mounts until I upgrade my vehicle. I'd hate to spend $1000 on mounts that I won't even be able to use in the next iteration. Am I thinking about this clearly? What am I missing and how big of a deal would it be to go with the less sturdy/less reliable non-frame mounted hooks for the next 12 months until I can upgrade my truck? Thanks in advance, ~Corbo
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