Heelbilly
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Re: Dirty Coils?
dodge guy wrote: It`s possible the voltage was low at the campground. If everything else checks out that's what I would go with. try it again with known good 120V. I didn't think of that! (But sure should have...) The campground was loaded to capacity... I've got a 10 gauge drop cord and an outlet near where my camper is parked that is on a 20 amp breaker. I may clean the coils, kill all the breakers in the trailer except the AC, and give it a shot! Beyond dirty coils, mixed return and supply air, and now the solid low voltage theory, I just can't think of anything else that would cause the AC to run properly and just not cool enough on a relatively mild day. As always, thank y'all!598Views0likes0CommentsDirty Coils?
Hey, y'all. Hope everyone is enjoying a nice camping season. I have a quick question for you more experienced folks. My travel trailer is starting its third summer... I bought it new in 2015. My last trip that needed the AC was last August. Had no problems... Even in the Georgia heat it kept the camper cool and nice. I just got back from my first AC-needed trip of this season. It was only about 83 degrees outside and I was parked in the shade but my AC could only hold the camper at about 78 or 79 degrees. Here are the obligatory details though: - The compressor did come on... and stayed on... no short cycling. - I clean my AC filter before every trip... OK...maybe every other trip... but I keep it clean - The AC was draining properly - I checked on the inside and made sure return and supply air weren't mixing. - It is a Domestic DuoTherm 13.5 BTU The air coming out of the vent was cool, but not as cold as I remember. I didn't have my laser thermometer with me so I can't tell you exactly what the temperature differential was. I would guess it was much warmer than the rule of thumb "20 degree" supply-return difference. Probably closer to 10 degrees, but again, that's a guess... When I got home today and had my ladder I climbed up on the roof to take a look at the coils to see if they were dirty. There are definitely some bugs and dust, but nothing too impressive... My question is, does a little bit of dirt make that much of a difference? I ask because I'm leaving in a few weeks for a two week trip to Key West. I'll want my AC much more then... My trailer is under warranty, so I could take it in, but I hate doing that anyway... Not to mention I'd probably be pushing it in terms of getting my trailer back for my trip. Not sure if it is worth rolling the dice with the dealership... I'm going to clean the coils tomorrow, but it will be next weekend before I can see if that did the trick since I don't have a 30 amp plugin at my house and my generator is on the fritz. Anything I'm missing? I figured since an RV AC only holds about a pound of freon, and since the compressor is kicking on and staying on...and cooling somewhat...that a freon leak was improbable? Any advice? Just trying to decide where to hedge my bet... cleaning the coils myself or going ahead and taking it in to get checked out so I don't jeopardize my big trip. Thanks, y'all! As always...3.8KViews0likes12CommentsRe: Stripped Anode Rod
Alright boys... As promised, I fought the heater this weekend. It was a long fight, going deep into the 15th round.. but... I won. It took a patient strategy. I started with trying the heating and cooling method, but could never get a good enough grip to do any real work. So, with a slight fear in my heart, I turned to the drill with left hand bits. I started small and made sure I had a good, straight center hole. I worked my way all the way up to 1/2". At that point I tried getting a 1/2" pipe extractor in there. I got torque, but it wasn't budging. I moved on up to 5/8" and still no luck. I tried chiseling at that point... no luck. So, I went for the Hail Mary pass. I put on the 3/4" bit and went to work. I was able to then work a 3/4" pipe extractor in. It made a very solid bite. I got my breaker bar and hung my 230lb self on the end of it. Like a gift from the heavens, it broke free. I still don't know why it was stuck. It was not cross threaded and I did not damage the threads with the drill. A new anode rod went right in without issue. The old anode rod was about gone and did break off in the process, but it shouldn't be an issue. So, lessons learned: 1. You don't have to torque an anode rod in like you are a gorilla. 2. Patience and power tools are your friends. 3. Buy really good drill bits. I bought cheap ones at first because I didn't have a left hand set. I ended up breaking down and buying some good titanium coated ones to finish the job. I appreciate all of the help and advice. Seriously. Thank you. Really glad I'm not putting a new heater in this weekend. I think I'll go camping instead. :B Here's a link to the removed rod, just for fun: https://postimg.org/image/s4lix6l69/1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Stripped Anode Rod
Old-Biscuit wrote: Just remember....... The tank is GLASS-LINED HOT/COLD could cause glass to crack/shatter But after 300# impact it may already be damaged. Great point. I may consider this one a $400 lesson learned and swap the heater. I'm not welder, but if the rod is magnesium, I know enough to know not to put a welder near that unless you're a pyromaniac. I'll try the twist socket and I'll try the pipe extractor route because I'm going to have to drill either way to drain the tank for a swap. It didn't drain from the low point drains like I hoped it would. Live and learn. I appreciate all the input!!461Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stripped Anode Rod
I purchased a 27mm twist socket. (Thanks jsteih.) I'm going to try that before taking the more drastic measures. The 1-1/16" is a little loose on it at this point, but a 1" won't hammer on, so we shall see. After that I'll go to the EZ Out and Plan Z will be Huntindog's "bust out the welder" plan. I'll keep you boys posted... For entertainment purposes. Thanks again, y'all!261Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stripped Anode Rod
Mike Taverniti wrote: I would drill and use e-z out. Get a pipe tap to clean threads. You can do it. Alright... Y'all are about to talk me into it. Now, I will say I torqued that sucker in there like a gorilla when I reinstalled it. I thought that was the goal. Live and learn. Y'all just stay tuned for when I ask, "has anyone ever changed out their sw6de water heater?"261Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stripped Anode Rod
Old-Biscuit wrote: Anode rod head is soft steel with a steel rod that the magnesium (or aluminum) sacrificial material is formed around Flat surface on head.......aluminum material on rod Bump on surface of head....magnesium material on rod Suburban uses an anode rod because tank is a 'glass-lined steel' tank. Sometimes it helps trying to 'tighten' a stuck bolt FIRST before trying to unscrew it. Anode rod is necessary to protect that steel tank from rusting out. Suburban tanks are not available for replacement....have to replace WHOLE water heater Drill it then E-Z out it After removal.....use a 3/4" NPT pipe nipple to chase drain hole threads (clean up/straighten them) I responded before seeing your whole post... Hmmm... Now I'm thinking of tackling it again. If I "blow it" and end up needing a new tank, any advice on that? Recommend going back with the Suburban?173Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 06, 202544,025 Posts
