LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Joined 21 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Changing flat tires?
jdc1 wrote: Use blocks....just drive the good tire up onto 3 2X8's. The flat tire will be high enough to remove and re-install. But, you might want to keep that jack around...in case both tires get mangled. That or use Lynx Levelers and drive the good tire up on to those, then use the jack to get the bad tire off the ground. I also really like to use these 3 ton jack with built in jack stand. You get your hydraulic jack, a good wide base, and the safety of a jack stand so you're not completely relying on the seals in the jack. KJ462Views0likes0CommentsRe: Operational problems with new diesel pickups
Travel glampers wrote: We're considering the purchase of a 2021 diesel, DRW, long bed pickup. Towing a 14,000 lb. fiver into the Rockies....The head mechanic at a local dealership actually bought a used 2009 Duramax, to avoid DEF problems. I have been told the DEF problems have been solved, but carbon build up remains. I wondering what operational problems people have experienced late model diesels, from the three different brands. 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7 Cummins with 160,000 miles. In 6 years of ownership I've had 1 CEL that was for insufficient catalyst. This was directly related to cheap farm store DEF that I purchased. Since then I've used only Peak Blue DEF and have had ZERO issues related to DEF. Currently have a CEL for Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor #5 and will replace that sensor soon. I've heard various stories of DEF problems, but in my case I'd say the system works just fine. What about the current EGT sensor you may ask? Have you ever had to replace an O2 sensor in your gas vehicle? The EGT is no different, they are sensors in a hot system, of course it will fail at some point. I have lots of torque, I get 21MPG unloaded, my tailpipe is clean, and the exhaust doesn't smell like burning oil. I'm pretty happy with the system423Views0likes0CommentsRe: oh joy...........
blt2ski wrote: Nothing new since yesterday. Have prices on a new GM long block, rebuilt ones. Know where there are some decent prices replacement trucks are. Just for reference, last year we put a Spartan/ATK reman long block from CarQuest in my son's '89 K1500 project truck. $1,350 for the long block or $1,500 with the pan, timing cover, and valve covers. It's not a HiPo engine but has ran just fine so far. There are a few bad reviews on these but I talked to a builder who said the engines are good and nearly all the complaints are due to shade tree install errors. Of all the shop installed engines 99.9% have zero issues but maybe 10% of the personal installs have problems directly related to the owner messing up. Depending on the condition of your current truck, and how motivated you are to do an engine swap, you could get it back on the road in a weekend and for around $2K. It looks like the 5.7L Vortec 4-bolt main for your truck runs right at $2K with all the tin already installed. KJ401Views0likes0CommentsRe: Truck Seat Repair
joelc wrote: I have a 2006 Ford Lariet with the fake leather seats. In one area the seat is wearing (about 6 x 6 area). What I want to know is if any one has had luck with any manufacture of vinyl repair or will eternabond roof tape work? The problem is on the driver side front area left of the seat, so it is not a flat area, but curved. Duct tape and Eternabond are both bad ideas. The adhesive on the edges will rub onto your pants as the fabric flexes and make a mess. The link OPNSPACES provided with a replacement fabric kit for $70 is about your cheapest option. You might call around to salvage yards and see if you can get a 'new' seat in good condition but I'd bet that would cost more than the $70 re-cover kit. KJ1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Hitch Upgrade - Should I?
ktosv wrote: 4x4ord wrote: Why not just use the hitch you have? It will probably do just fine. More than likely if the hitch can’t handle what you’re pulling you’re going to want a heavier truck anyway. Instead of wasting money on a hitch save it to go towards a new truck. 4x4ord, Go back and read the previous posts. The OP has a GMT800 based vehicle which there was documented hitch failures when these trucks were new. His truck is now 15 years old and they are taking about towing 8000#. Why tempt fate? Exactly. The OEM receiver on GMT800 were a joke. Towing a utility trailer or light boat was fine with the OEM receiver. Anything with heavy tongue weight was a bad idea. KJ615Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hitch Upgrade - Should I?
wjsweet wrote: Have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500HD. Came with a class III 600lb tongue weight hitch. Seems to be the weak point. The OEM hitch on that era of GM truck was a total piece of junk. Do a search on this site and you'll find all kinds of conversations that happened in the past about these receivers and the multiple weak points. A good Class IV/V Receiver like this one is what you need on that truck. It's true you don't always need a WD hitch, however I've always found with heavier tongue weights using WD makes the connection feel much more solid and you get less bounce in the rear suspension. The kicker is always going over bridge joints you can get into a porpoising condition without a WD hitch. KJ615Views0likes0CommentsRe: Recommendation for Folding Hard Tonneau Cover
I have an https://extang.com/solid-fold-2-0?gclid=CjwKCAiAsOmABhAwEiwAEBR0ZusJW5P3zNAeOGrbry4RXByxQC6gpB3XTdnZ184mTDPh1m6eSYDzWhoC1kwQAvD_BwE cover on my long bed 2014 RAM. I'm pretty happy with it overall. It does leak a little at the two seams, but it folds easily to 1/3 length when I use a 5th wheel or gooseneck trailer. In the winter is can freeze to the tailgate, but a little prying with a scraper gets it loose. KJ671Views0likes0CommentsRe: Best for service work
Hey there OP. I think you're not getting replies because the post title is vague. Maybe if you change the title to "Best Chevy Service Dealer in Chattanooga, TN?" or something like that you may get more responses. If you're looking specifically for Duramax service you might include that in the title as well.149Views0likes0CommentsRe: Ram 2021 questions
rhagfo wrote: The 2014 with 68RFE was 370 HP and 800 lb. ft. of torque. 385/850 was the HO only with the Aisin. The HP and Torque for the SO 68RFE was flat at 370/800 from 2013’ to 2018, then in 2019 it got a 50 lb. ft. increase in torque. I Yep, realized that after I went back and checked myself. But, the gist of my comment to the OP is simply that without the HO you still get a fantastic power and load capacity.377Views0likes0CommentsRe: Ram 2021 questions
djcjc wrote: Going to get a new Ram --> Have a 2012 3500 Dually --> going to go to a 3500 crew cab 8 ft bed SRW --> I have the high output on my dually but torque is 800 # so is the HO worth the 3 thousand upgrade over the standard cummins --> going to go to a fifth wheel and not anything huge --> SRW will make daily driving a little easier. The truck you want to buy is nearly identical to my 2014 crew cab, long bed 2500. My Cummins is 370HP/800TQ with the 68RFE transmission. I pulled a 14,000lbs 5er through the Rockies just fine and never felt overmatched by the trailer. I've also pulled gooseneck trailers in the 15,000lbs range and it handled that very well. The OEM engine brake is out of this world for towing :B Is the HO upgrade worth it? The extra 275 ft-lbs of torque is nice and the Aisin transmission is more stout than the 68RFE. Is it $3K better, I'm not sure because the standard 385HP/850TQ is a pretty good package. Also, I don't know if you can get the HO package in the SRW 3500. Absolute #1 thing for sure: Get the factory 5th wheel and goose neck prep packages! It's only something like a $500 option and worth it's weight in gold. This setup makes install and removal of the 5th wheel hitch a breeze. Plus your in-bed wiring is already done as well. The optional camera package is really nice. I've driven the newer trucks that have the bed view camera and it makes lining up your 5er pin really easy. Obviously you can do this without the camera, but man it makes things so simple and eliminates those 2 or 3 trips in and out of the cab to check alignment. One final suggestion. If you get a 4X4, order the OEM side steps. These trucks set really tall and unless you have some long legs it's a real stretch up into the cab without the side steps. My truck had aftermarket steps when I bought it and I had to replace them. I went with OEM and they are so much firmer and solid feeling than the aftermarket ones. The SRW crew cab long bed truck is definitely narrower than the dually, but it's still a land yacht. Easier to drive for sure than the dually, but you still need to plan your turns and watch your mirrors because these dudes are looooooong KJ377Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Bucket List Trips
Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts Fifth Wheel Group
Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 20, 202544,029 Posts
