All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsShower SquealingI have noticed lately that while taking a shower that a high pitched whining or squealing comes and goes. It seems to be coming from the mixing valve but isn't constant. A 5 minute shower will have 3 or 4 cycles of no noise v noise each lasting 45 seconds or so. Does this sound like it could be caused by air in the line or do I just need a new shower setup? Thanks in advance.Re: Atwood water heater GC10A-3EThe ground was neither clean nor tight. All is put back together now with 110 volts going to the element. Any suggestions if this doesn't work?Re: Atwood water heater GC10A-3EI am seeing exactly what Old Biscuit is talking about inside. The previous owner marked the switch position backward but I have it turned on now which was verified with a meter. But I am still not getting hot water. Do the propane and ac systems work independently from one another? In other words does an inside ac thermostat have any effect on the outside lp thermostat? There are three powered devices behind the cover. Two are thermostats and I assume the other one (at the bottom and much larger) is the heating element. I can confirm cuttent at what I think is the element but is still will not heat the water. Any recommendations?Atwood water heater GC10A-3EFor the longest time I thought this water heater only functioned on propane. Upon reading a bit it appears that it can run on 120 ac or lp. How do I know in which mode it is operating? Also on the panel to turn the heater on or off I noticed a small red light just right of the toggle switch. What does this light indicate? Sometimes it's on and others it's off. The reason for typing this out is that we periodically have issues with the water heater while operating on propane. If I could simply run it on AC how would I do so?Cheap Roof SealantHi all! I have a late 1990's camper whose roof needs some attention. The camper sits in the woods and serves as a home away from home at a hunting camp. It's a nice enough camper but I don't care to drop a lot of money on the roof. She is a 38 footer and I have seen prices of $300 and up for the proper sealant. Honestly I don't care if I use the proper stuff or not. The roof has been patched in the past and I just need something to get me through a few years. We used some elastomeric stuff several years ago from Home Depot and it seemed to work pretty well. I don't know what kind of material the roof is made put of figured I would ask around and see what you all thought of that type of sealant.Re: Water heater issueIt's not always 3 times. Sometimes just once. The flame seems fine to me. It's not overly noisy and seems to burn cleanly.Water heater issueI am having an intermittent issue with my water heater and need advice. It's an Atwood propane only model with a 10 gallon capacity. The issue is that sometimes it will light right away like it's supposed to and run fine. Other times I have to go put there, light a stick on fire, shove it in the hole and run inside to turn the switch back on as it just won't light on its own (but the gas is definitely flowing) . Then sometimes it will fire up - nice pun huh? - for 10 seconds or so then quit and try to turn itself right back on. Usually when that happens the ignitor won't start it up and I have to do the stick trick again. Any ideas to help me track this little goblin down?Re: Rooftop AC Unit Replacement j-d wrote: Mbiallas wrote: Well we have thrown in the towel on our old Coleman Mach unit. Does the Old Mach still run? We were about to sell a 24 year old Class C with a 13500 Mach on it, just to sell it. Came across Chris Bryant's article on how to clean the coils and drain. Did that, and it got its cool back. We bought another C with a Mach 15000 on it, cleaned the coils as Chris explained in the article, also pulled the motor and cleaned the indoor blower wheel (squirrel cage). That Mach is now 15 years old. One thing I learned recently, again Shout Out to Chris, is that the back of the unit, the condenser coil, has to have its edges sealed to the shroud with air baffles. A little hard to explain, but the air over the condenser is drawn in from behind. It can't be allowed to get some of that air from the side vents of the shroud. Easy fix with some foam insulation for copper pipe. We have cleaned the coils and they look great on both sides. I'm afraid the motor is nearly shot as I often have to climb on the roof and give it a hand starting while someone else hits the switch inside. I had hoped it was the capacitors but they were all replaced a few uses ago. As I understand the fan is supposed to pretty much free-spin when you touch it. Ours is tough to spin and most certainly stops dead as soon as you quit pushing it along. And now the compressor doesn't want to kick on at all. We had planned on getting a new thermostat as well as a new unit. The current unit simply has a grate on the ceiling that holds the air filter and gives access to the wiring. Is there anything else we will need to purchase aside from the unit and thermostat? I read somewhere that there was some control module (not sure if that is the right name) that was needed but didn't come with the new unit. That person said they were able to pull it from their existing unit and it worked on the new one. Also - will there be a noticeable difference between a 13.5k and 15k btu unit? Our camper is a 37 footer located in South GA. So we need all the cooling we can get.Rooftop AC Unit ReplacementWell we have thrown in the towel on our old Coleman Mach unit. After reading a few articles it would appear that replacing the unit will not be all the difficult. From what I understand it basically involves unbolting the old unit and disconnecting the power wires and the wires from the thermostat and then reconnecting in reverse order. Well that all sounds simple enough, but I would really like to hear from some other ordinary Joe's that have actually done this. Most of the videos I have seen are for non-ducted units. Ours is ducted. I doubt this would make much difference in installation but figured I would ask. Please let me know what your experience was like.Re: Stinky gray waterThis reminds me of another issue that may be related. Sometimes we get some Stinky water when filling the toilet prior to use. There is no smell until I pull the small lever to put more water in the bowl and then it just smells bad. After flushing it seems to clear up. Does this sound like a vent issue? I have never even looked at the vent. FYI our camper is not used regularly as its at a hunting camp. We are using the fresh water tank and pump as there is no well at our location.