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Re: Solar Switch
GaryS1953 wrote: So what about something like this this ? It has the advantage of fitting in the small space I have and can be screwed right into the wall below the controller. It would probably work for disconnecting purposes, but given the price, source, and quality, I'm not sure that I'd trust it's actual overcurrent capabilities. However, I've been surprised before. By the way, others on this forum might want to take the time to check out Section 90.2(A) of the Natiinal Electrical Code as to it's applicability to RV's. Yes, it's difficult to adhere to all of it's provisions when installing PV on an RV, but the overall provisions for safety and good design are valid nonetheless. While no firefighters will be going on the RV roof, it's avoiding the need for them to show up in the first place that is the overall goal.640Views0likes0CommentsRe: Solar Switch
GaryS1953 wrote: Tom - I mis-spoke. I DO have a removable 40 AMP fuse between the CC ant the batteries. The Battery switch is acrually between the batteries and the campers 12volt system, so the CC IS protected from battery currentl, I think. I think I just need to decide how to easily isolate the CC from the panels. Gary, Is the 40A fuse socketed, or is it in a holder or bolted in? Technically, the Code allows an isolation device, such as a removeable fuse if the circuit current is less than 30A. Above 30A a disconnect is required. The simple and cheap solution for a switch would be to find a surplus 40A (or higher, since you have a fuse) DC rated breaker on eBay. Amazon also has some inexpensive battery switches that would do the job.640Views0likes0CommentsRe: Solar Switch
GaryS1953 wrote: Hi All - When I installed my solar setup I put an in-line fuse between the panels and the charge controller, but unfortunately, it's on the roof. Never occurred to me I might want an easy way to shut off the amps to the charge controller. Now I'm realizing I will/do need to do maintenance on my battery bank, meaning I will need to disconnect them. Renogy says NOT to have solar power coming into the CC with no batteries connected, so I need a switch to turn them off and on. What do all of you use? I have 2 165 watt 12 volt panels in series connected to a Renogy Tracer 40 AMP MPPT CC. I have found plenty of switches to use on the battery side of the CC, and I have one there, but what is appropriate for the panel side? Thanks! Gary, When you think about this it helps to think in terms of how does one protect the device or the conductors connected to it. Since the charge controller is fed from two sources, one of them current-limited, the other not, you are dealing with a couple of issues. First of all you need an isolating device (or disconnecting means, i.e."switch") on the PV input side of the charge controller to allow you to service the controller. Given that your installation won't deliver more than 30 amps from the solar array you could simply use a connector, such as an Anderson Powerpole or an MC4. You also need to protect the wire from the battery to the charge controller, at or near the battery, with an appropriate overcurrent protective device. This device can also serve as the disconnecting means for the battery side of the charge controller if it's within 10 feet of the controller. This device needs to be rated for the for the available fault current from the battery and should be sized based on the lower of either the amperage rating of the controller or the ampacity of the wire going from the battery to the controller AND from the controller to the array (if ther's no internal overcurrent protection in the controller). This approach protects the wiring from a backfeed in case of a controller failure. The Bussman integrated switch/breaker units work well for this application. There are other ways to do this, with a fuse and separate switch for example, but the switch needs to be DC rated and of sufficient size (ampacity).640Views0likes0CommentsRe: So what did you do to your Truck Camper today?
mkasner wrote: Bought some eternabond tape, and once the weather warms up going to tape the roof to nose cap seam.Doesn't leak on our Lance, but every time I am up on the roof, I keep looking at the seam and think how horrible to have a leak develop there. I did the same thing on my 1998 Bigfoot 30C10.11F after I replaced the roof. I applied it right over the screw strips, front and back. The previous owner had failed to keep up with the maintenance and I ended up having to replace some plywood at the rear of the camper. Dicor is fast, inexpensive and easy to apply, but the ongoing maintenance is a hassle. Eternabond takes longer and is more expensive, but should pay off in the long run.441Views0likes0CommentsRe: So what did you do to your Truck Camper today?
I added a set of scissor stairs inside the camper to make it easier to get up into the bunk. Rex the dog says that they work pretty well. I'll be adding some carpeted covers to make them a bit easier on the feet in the middle of the night.196Views0likes0CommentsRe: Diffculty starting Onan 2500 genset
Does the non-starting issue occur after you have shut off the propane tank for awhile? If so, it's probably just leaking propane a bit and needs to re-prime in order to start. I'd try a good cleaning of the intake and changing the plugs before resorting to starting fluid on a regular basis.320Views0likes0CommentsRe: 24 Volt CPAP
I'd try the inverter that you have and if it works, then good enough. If things are running too warm or if there are issues, you might be better off just getting a small sine wave inverter as it would be more versatile than a specific DC-DC converter for the CPAP. Amazon has them for about $40.447Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jul 15, 202544,042 Posts
