Westronics
Explorer
Joined 23 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: lite weight/low cost leveling jacks?
eric1514 wrote: Westronics wrote: I use four permanently mounted BAL scissor jacks. Works great. You can level the rig - but never, ever, lift a tire off the ground with them. They do not have enough lateral stability for that (yes, I do have first-hand experience with that!). Boy, some pics and more details of that would be welcome. I assume you're shifting the body around on the suspension since you're leaving the wheels on the ground. How much travel do you think you get? Do you use blocks under the jacks to minimize cranking? Inquiring minds want to know, Eric No Pics - I don't have the rig any more. However, I can still answer a couple of questions: I got probably over six inches of travel without lifting a tire off the ground. I could level the rig quite well. Yes, I used blocks under the jacks - especially in the front where they were higher off the ground. The rear is much heavier and harder to lift, so I always tried to park slightly nose down if I had a choice. I used a 24-volt drill with a 3/4" socket to make fast work of running the jacks up and down. All-in-all, a pretty fair solution for a pretty low price. P.S. My only RV is now a 1977 Rawson 30PH.513Views0likes0CommentsRe: lite weight/low cost leveling jacks?
I use four permanently mounted BAL scissor jacks. Works great. You can level the rig - but never, ever, lift a tire off the ground with them. They do not have enough lateral stability for that (yes, I do have first-hand experience with that!).513Views0likes0CommentsRe: How do I maximize MPG? from miles per hour
skipnchar wrote: The main REASON you get better mileage at slower speeds is because of the wind resistance. For that reason your optimal speed/mileage combination will change depending on wind direction. It will PROBABLY be slower than you want to drive on the highway when winds are on the nose. Best you can hope for is to just go slow enough that you get as much fuel economy as you can STAND to get for the driving you're doing. MOST of the time your actual optimal speed will be around 20 MPH. The actual optimal speed on flat terrain is the lowest speed at which you can keep the transmission in Overdrive. That would be at 40 MPH. Coincidentally, that is also the speed at which wind resistance starts to become a big factor in fuel burn. Unfortunately, 40 MPH is often too slow to be safe, so the answer is to keep your speed down as much as you can, within reason. You can achieve 16 MPG or more at 40 MPH on flat terrain with no stoplights, but no one ever gets to drive like that. The best I have ever done for a full tank is 13 MPG when making an all-highway run at 55 MPH with, possibly, a small tail wind. I, like many others, use a Scanguage II and adjust my driving based on its feedback.436Views0likes0CommentsRe: What did you do to your Class C MH today???
rgrcpa wrote: Just had a replacement Norcold three way refer installed. Took only one hour. The freezer stopped freezing stuff and the lower section went to over 60 degrees in the old unit. Diagnosis reported that the ammonia in the "tank" behind the refer unit had almost run out. I didn't know this took place. The old refer must have been only nine years old. Rather costly replacement at $1,400, no? Just another thing no one teaches you when you become a new RV owner. BTW, can anyone suggest an optimum temperature for the freezer and the lower food compartment? I'm sitting in Colorado at over 5,000 feet. Fridge: 35 - 38 degrees Fahrenheit Freezer: 0 degrees Fahrenheit415Views0likes0CommentsRe: What did you do to your Class C MH today???
Yesterday, I picked it up from the shop. Now it's today I have have re-arched and re-tempered springs for the right rear, plus one extra spring. Also new shocks. Alas, I am $1,500 poorer. Plus, I got news that my steering linkage and the ball mounts (top and bottom) are shot. I have not checked these out myself, and it's not urgent, but it's bad news.383Views0likes0CommentsRe: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C
oldtrucker63 wrote: This RV had a gauge for the propane gas its like a small CB radio gauge it reads from E to F But there is no wire that I can find coming from the panel to the tank and no hook up on the tank.??? Anyone know how a gauge for the propane tank would hook up How do they hook them to a tank I think they would have to read from pressure and would have to be behind the regulator valve. Anyone know just how this works. I think they are magnetic gauges. Behind the gauge is a float that moves whatever it is behind the gauge that makes the gauge read "E" to "F." If what you want is a remote indicator, you need to replace the gauge (just the dial) itself with one that that has a wire that is used to run to your remote indicator. I did this myself - finding the new dial was the hardest part of the whole operation. I later broke the clips that hold the dial in place and, because finding a new dial is so hard, I finally gave up and it is duct-taped in place. It works... :)112Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 20, 202538,705 Posts RV Newbies
We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts
