coolbikeman1
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Re: Insulating windows
GoDawgs wrote: I desperately need to improve my campers ability to stay cool. I know reflectex is a popular option as well as the shrink wrap option. I'm assuming the reflectex is probably a little better for summer heat applications, but i was hoping someone could share the pros and cons of one vs the other. I realize I won't be able to see out when the reflectex is up and I know the shrink wrap can't be put up and taken down like the reflectex. Also, has anyone used automotive heat shield, such as that used in the firewall of a vehicle? Seems like this would be better than reflectex. Check out solar sun screens installed on outside of window. It helps keep sun from hitting the glass and heating it up. The custom made ones are not cheap. I used the self install ones from https://ezsnapdirect.com/products/rv-shades/ . They are cheaper and worked well for our travel trailer that we used a few summers in southwest Texas about an hour from Laredo.407Views0likes0CommentsRe: Airstream Fiberglass TT
http://olivertraveltrailers.com/ This is another high quality fiberglass trailer that can come in a larger size. Looks to be well made and has high quality components. I would like to inquire to see if they could make one almost identical in size and interior to an Airstream Classic 31' model. You would have no trouble with possible seam leaks compared to the aluminum models. Sorry for double post. The first message didn't have a clickable link. Can't find a way to delete it.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Airstream Fiberglass TT
http://olivertraveltrailers.com/ This is another high quality fiberglass trailer that can come in a larger size. Looks to be well made and has high quality components. I would like to inquire to see if they could make one almost identical in size and interior to an Airstream Classic 31' model. You would have no trouble with possible seam leaks compared to the aluminum models.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Alternative to an Airstream's quality and beautiful windows?
I am also wanting an Airstream due to the method of construction and their looks, and longevity. We currently have a 2002 Holiday Rambler Alumascape 31CKS. It has one slide and it does help with room. On the downside, we(I) have had to replace the slide out seal which was a major chore. So hoping that nothing goes wrong with the slide mechanism and increased chance of water, dust and insect entrance is always in the back of our mind. Our trailer has a lot of windows too, but the downside, is that they are not dual pane and are very cold near them and let a lot of sun in when trying to cool with A/C. I know that Airstream has less storage due to the shape, we would have to be very careful and try to do with less "stuff". I like the looks best even if dated, it never goes out of style compared to the what I call gaudy white, or other color box trailers with all the graphics. Oh, I also like the low profile with not so many steps in and out, and better gas mileage. If you haven't already, this video is very interesting about performance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqWHSsHcxRU Just my opinion though:) Terry themoreweexplore wrote: So... clean Avions (or any Avions built after '79) have been tough to find. Maybe it's the time of the year, but we've really been struggling to find anything decent within 1000 miles for the past 3 months. We have recently been turned on to Outdoors RV, specifically the Creek Side 20FQ. They don't have the sleek interior design of an Airstream, but they really feel well-built, and a lot of the models have BIG windows. We love Airstream's interior, but the ground clearance is an issue for us, the minimal insulation is an issue for us, and the small holding tanks are less than ideal. Maybe it's sour grapes that I can't afford one? Maybe it's me realizing that looks are great, but I need more than just a pretty trailer. These Outdoors RV brands look fantastic. Incredible insulation, custom frame for each model, well-built, and the model we're looking at has great windows with skylights. Now, if price were no object, I might go for the Airstream purely for interior look & feel (there's a "feeling" of being in an Airstream with all those open windows). But money is an object, and I've been impressed with the Outdoors RV line, and I think it could serve me very well. I still wish I could see an Oliver, Bigfoot, or lil snoozy in person, but we don't have many out here in the west to check out. I have a lot of respect for those fiberglass trailers, they seem fantastic.1.8KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Alternative to an Airstream's quality and beautiful windows?
MM49 wrote: 69 Avion wrote: This is a fabulous discussion. Bt the way, I'm not the one that said you shouldn't tow an Airstream with a heavy duty pickup, an Airstream expert did. He also stated that too heavy of WDH bars will harm the Airstream trailer. Here is the quote, "Early frame failures are usually due to grossly out of balance running gear, or, towing with a super heavy duty tow vehicle and an excessively rated hitch bars, or a combination of those." This particular discussion came about when I mentioned frame issues. I was called out to prove it. So I did with plenty of examples. Another example: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/frame-failure-22-foot-international-48105.htm It is nice to finally see someone admit that there were problems with certain models. The above example is a 22' model that was only 6 years old at the time of discovering the failure. The engineering didn't change on this model except for weight distribution with the layout of the traier. Think about it for a moment, (without the emotions) this trailer is a tandem axle that is only 22' long. The frame design is basically the same as most of the others, except shorter. Longer frames with more overhang will have more stress, especially if the shell is seperated from the frame. The issue is that the frame problems aren't just on the 22' models. I must yield to folks here with more experience than me. I've only been building equipment trailers, on and off, for over 40 years. I have experience with many trailers, but I must admit, all the trailers I build had to support themselves. Understanding the semi-monocoque system, any serious failure in the connection between the frame and shell WILL cause an eventual frame failure. Now to the axles that were mentioned above. Some folks really like the rubber torsion axles. I have used many of them over the years. They are great for a few reasons. One, they are independent. Two, they actually help support the structure as they become part of the structure. Three, they give a good ride. Four, they are cheaper to install since you don't have to deal with all the shackle brakets. If Airstream used the FlexiRide type, you could actually change the torsion angle by removing one bolt from the splines. Now for the negative. The rubber hardens in about 20 years or so depending on the temperature. The axles don't have an "equalizer" so when you go over a large bump (usually over 6"+) the first axle will have all the weight of the trailer (that isn't on the tongue) on one axle, then the second axle. So, if you have an 8000# trailer with 1000# on the tongue, equipped with two 4000# axles, each 4000# rated axle will have 7000# on it as it goes over that sharp bump. Combine that with a marginal frame and guess what happens over time? A leaf spring axle won't do that since it has an equalizer. There was a system that Dexter made with a split leaf spring axle that gave you an independent suspension and the equalizer, but it takes more time to build and a heavy frame to support the suspension. Another issue is some rubber torsion manufacturers will not recommend them for triple axle configurations because the lateral stress can pull the torsion arms out of the axle tube. It might be a little unfair to blame a poorly designed torsion bar WDH hitch on optimized frame design. I for one think that the basic adjustment instructions for torsion bars are all wrong for today’s heavy duty trucks. You should only be transferring a portion of the TW weight forward. The HD trucks are F/R out of balance and they benefit from a substantial TW on the rear axle. The TW left after loading the rear truck suspension is the only amount that should be equalized. This would require much smaller torsion bars with less damage to trailer frames and suspensions. There is not a chance that the public will ever understand this. I was at a large campground this week end and 9 out of 10 RV’s were set up incorrectly. The owners are in ignorant bliss and this will not change. MM49 Like I said earlier, make an informed decision. I am also interested in purchasing an Airstream in the future and really like the input from this topic. But, in the quote above about " The TW left after loading the rear truck suspension is the only amount that should be equalized. This would require much smaller torsion bars with less damage to trailer frames and suspensions. There is not a chance that the public will ever understand this. I was at a large campground this week end and 9 out of 10 RV’s were set up incorrectly. The owners are in ignorant bliss and this will not change. MM49" has me a little confused. Can you explain this a little more clearly? Is this the trailer tongue weight? And, how does this change by connecting the trailer to the truck suspension unless you engage the weight distribution part of the hitch? How do you know how much weight you are equalizing? I go by the wheel height measurements before and after adjusting the WDH. I currently have a Holiday Rambler travel trailer and can tell how much tongue weight is on my truck by going to weight scales and getting all axle weights and subtracting the actual unconnected weight of the truck from the axle weights when using the WDH.:?505Views0likes0CommentsRe: Poor tow vehicle ride pulling trailer on certain highways
W.E.BGood wrote: Coolbikeman...I have the same ride experiences with my '08 Tundra and Keystone Outback 250RS (6K dry) on various concrete paved-sectioned highways. What improved things considerably was proper adjustment and setup of my Equal-i-zer WDH. Adding Firestone airbags have also helped for some sections, and simply slowing down was the only thing that made a real difference in certain circumstances. My previous TT was a 21 foot relatively low-profiled hybrid...it also bucked on some sections of Wisconsin and Iowa roads even with the WDH. I'm in agreement with tll's post at the bottom of page 2. Thanks, I have come to about the same conclusion also. Those Lippert accessories to the suspension look like they might help some.590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Poor tow vehicle ride pulling trailer on certain highways
Thanks to everyone for all the input. I am considering an Airstream trailer. Does anyone have experience pulling one on these same type roads? Just wondering if their lower center of gravity and different type suspension would make any difference?590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Poor tow vehicle ride pulling trailer on certain highways
tll wrote: I've had this happen on a variety of concrete highways. Even a brand new one just a few months old, and it was the worst I have ever seen. When the concrete drys it sometimes "cups" a bit. The high points are at the expansion joints. This causes the problem. It has nothing to do with truck, trailer, or tongue weights (unless too light). Having the WD hitch adjusted properly and the correct tongue weight will help. The most successful fixes to this problem is to install shocks on the trailer or a product like the Lippert equa-flex. The equa-flex (and others)is designed specifically to reduce the problem. Thanks everyone for the input. This is exactly what is happening. Drove home today, and all roads south of Kansas City were fine, no porpoising. I agree a 3/4 ton truck would probably be better for the tongue weight issue.590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Poor tow vehicle ride pulling trailer on certain highways
nomad297 wrote: coolbikeman1 wrote: It is around 8500 lbs. Weight limit on trailer is 10,000 lbs. Dry weight 7780 lbs. The suspension isn't bottomed out, but I can see where this would be a cause if it were. If the dry weight was 7,780 pounds when it left the factory, there is no way the weight of it, loaded and ready for a trip, is around 8,500 pounds. I know it weighs more than that. I am certain you are over your limits in all aspects but one -- your advertised tow capacity. Bruce It may or may not be over limit, I will have to recheck the weights. We purposely travel light and do not load any extra items not absolutely necessary. But, I was actually trying to get info as to whether other RVer's usually experience this phenomenon (within weight limits or not) on certain roads while pulling a travel trailer. If so, this may change my desire as to which RV I purchase in the near future. Thanks:h523Views0likes0CommentsRe: Poor tow vehicle ride pulling trailer on certain highways
therink wrote: You likely have around a 1200 lb tongue weight. Have you scaled your truck/trailer together, truck and trailer loaded up as if leaving for a trip? Not trying to be weight police here, but if towing ride is not comfortable, that is the first thing I would do. I did weigh the truck and trailer quite awhile back when I first got it and have forgot what the figures were. I will have to look to see if I still have the weight ticket or get it weighted again. I do know at the time it was within all GVWR weight limits for the truck and trailer. I do know I would not want to tow anything heavier than what I have with my Tundra even though it is supposed to tow a little over 10000 lbs. with a GCWR of both a little over 17000 lbs.523Views0likes0Comments
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