icodeintx
Explorer
Joined 5 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: 10/3 Wire split
Here is my response :) I appreciate everyone's feedback and discussions (arguments) about which is the best way. I've determined from the discussions that the right way is whatever floats my boat as long as the copper is not damaged. For now it is going to get wrapped and down the line maybe it will get replaced with a jbox. However, I'm 95% leaning towards building out a skoolie in the near future so that will end the need for jbox or tape Cummins12V98 wrote: HMMMM No responses.736Views0likes0CommentsRe: 10/3 Wire split
:B Same going on here.... it is less a problem with the wire and more a problem with me. :C NRALIFR wrote: That’s always the conundrum, ain’t it? Fix it or Band-Aid it? I’ve done both, both have their place. It usually depends on how OCD I’m feeling at the time. :B :):)426Views0likes0CommentsRe: 10/3 Wire split
Just the wire insulation is missing about 2mm. The copper is undamaged. The outside jacket I have peeled back to see how bad it was. wa8yxm wrote: enblethen wrote: If only the outer jacket is cut, tape it up and apply a coating such as 3M Scotchcoat. If conductor insulation is damaged, replace it completely. Wire should be 10/2 with ground, not 10/3! Full agreement Tape and seal or even just seal Lots of products out there good for this like Flex Seal or GOOP (Power off while sealing) Also is the cut just in the OUTER jacket or is the wire itself exposed. IS the wire cut? If wire cut then splice properly if not just seal it up.511Views0likes0CommentsRe: 10/3 Wire split
ahhh yes, as an old Air Force aircraft mechanic we called this F-4 tape since it was said that this tape is what held the aircraft together. Funny thing is someone who knew went out and made a business out of it and you can now get F-4 tape. I can remember the distinct smell of the tape as it was peeled back. Here it is: F-4 Tape folivier wrote: If you tape it use a silicone self fusing tape like Rescue Tape rather than regular electrical tape.511Views0likes0CommentsCabinet door material
Greetings everyone, In the process of redoing my 5th wheel I need to replace two damaged doors that originally had this expanded metal in them. I've not been able to find this product nor am I too excited to replace it with the same stuff. It would be nice to hear your creative ideas. Thanks Scott2.1KViews0likes7CommentsRe: 10/3 Wire split
This sounds like what I'm going to do for the solution. Since there is no slack in the wire I'm going to use a new piece from the splice to the inlet which is only about 24 inches away. I wanted everyone's opinion for seeing what options I had and to know if I used wire nuts that it wouldn't create a fire hazard since it is the main 30amp line. I feel much better about it now. That will be my next project after I get these volt/amp meters installed. What a mess I have. I have two AC and one DC meter going in so I can see all my usages in one spot. Yay for projects! Thank you all for your feedback. Scott MrWizard wrote: The Romex running thru floor and walls is not going to be damaged, The only damage is the exposed portion Install a junction box, and splice in your new piece of Romex, it's just 3 wire nuts, RED ONES are the correct size for 10ga Romex, Tape wrap each wire nut splice separately I use the hard plastic wire nuts, I do not like the soft scotch lock brand, I've had Too many where the soft outside came loose from the inside steel core,506Views0likes0CommentsRe: 10/3 Wire split
Which description? It is the factory wire that runs from the back of the inlet (drivers side) across the back of the RV (inside) then down through the floor for about 12ft only to come back up from under the floor to the power box. I just see it as a "pain" to replace since I'll have to pull the bottom of the RV apart to get to the wire if I was to replace it. If I have to cut it then I was hoping to just put it in a junction box and wire it up normally with wire nuts but I don't have experience with 10 gauge wire and concerned if cutting the wire would cause it to get hot at the wire nuts. I'm not having any problems with it as it is but like another poster said, "It is ugly" :) rhagfo wrote: icodeintx wrote: Oh my... I was hoping not to hear "replace" :( That wire goes under the floor, under the door and through the kitchen to the power box. That description scares me worst than the picture!!!235Views0likes0CommentsRe: 10/3 Wire split
Yes it is ugly. It wasn't as ugly but I removed the orange insulation to see what damage was done. It was basically scratched from wood hitting it and I didn't want to leave it that way so my investigation turned into surgery which left me with this mess. Gdetrailer wrote: That is ugly. splice NEEDS to be in a work box. Better yet, can you trace back to where both ends of this wire goes and replace entire length? Might want to consider finding better path to protect the cable from future damage..235Views0likes0CommentsRe: 10/3 Wire split
unfortunately there is a small section of the insulation missing on both the hot and the neurtral. About 2mm but the copper isn't damaged. time2roll wrote: Not sure what is under the black tape but I would just tape that up unless a portion of the hot/neutral insulation was actually removed or the copper was damaged.235Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Fifth Wheel Group
Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 29, 202519,006 Posts
