All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Rubber roof repair with limited supplies Joe417 wrote: I wouldn't put the Eternabond on first and then put the strip on top. You would be putting holes in the backing of the tape. If I wanted to put it back the way it was, I would put Dicor across the joint temporarily. If you aren't pulling it around it will keep the water out until there was time to get the Butyl tape and re-seal it like it came from the factory. One tube should seal the rubber to the front cap temporarily. I would call putting a bead of the Dicor across it, bedding the termination strip in it and screwing it down and then covering it with the eternabond tape a permanent fix. If you clean it "real good" where the eternabond can stick to both the front cap and the rubber it wont leak. You said you have 40 ft. of tape which should be enough to make overlapping runs across the termination joint. As long as it is real clean it will seal it. I don't want a quick fix ora temporary solution. I am going for a permanent repair with the supplies I have on hand, because I will have to move. I don't have butyl tape, so I was mainly looking for a substitute there. Since Eternabond seals around screws drilled through it, I didn't think it would be a problem to do that. Basically, instead of having butyl tape, I would have Eternabond. I wasn't wild about the bed of caulk/overlap tape idea because I'm not sure there is enough caulk to make a good bed and if I taped over the termination bar, I would prefer it to be with the 4 inch tape, not the 2. Which is when I thought of reversing the layers. I have plenty of tape to tape down the edge, and enough sealant for the edges and screws of the termination bar.Re: Rubber roof repair with limited supplies BFL13 wrote: I am not clear on the "termination bar" but if it is the moulding piece across the roof at the cap, usually that is Dicored down original, so a repair would be to cover the whole thing with wide Eternabond. (at least that is one way). I have never seen anything but butyl tape under the termination bar or anything else on the roof.Re: Rubber roof repair with limited suppliesGood lord, I'd be lucky to keep six inches of that stuff from sticking to itself without backing.Re: Rubber roof repair with limited supplies BFL13 wrote: Normally you use 4 inch Eternabond over the whole thing between the roof and the cap. For a quick fix using what you have, you can put the "termination bar" back on and put your 2 inch Eternabond along it with 1 inch overlap, so with 40 feet and 8 ft to do, you could do two 8 ft, with one overlap making 3 inches. Or even three and get 4 inches. It is hard to do all 8 ft with one length --it gets twisted up in the wind and turns into a nightmare, so shorter lengths overlapping end to end is more practical. Your 40 ft leaves enough for overlapping the end to end and for the lengths. You might not need the Dicor at all. Purists put Dicor along the edges of the Eternabond, but how long is this for, before you get some 4 inch and do it over top of this one? Idon't understand what you mean about overlapping shorter lengths. That seems like there would be more opportunity for leaks that way. Are you saying put the tape over the termination bar?Rubber roof repair with limited suppliesI had to make a repair to the rubber on the roof which involved removing the front termination bar. I have one tube of dicor self leveling sealant and about 40 feet of 2" wide Eternabond tape. I have no butyl tape and no way to get any before the next rainfall. Is there a reason I couldn't/shouldn't use the eternabond to tape the metal edge of the front to the rubber roof, then put the termination bar over that?Re: converter and start capacitor replacement Old-Biscuit wrote: NanHenson wrote: The old converter died. It was original equipment. I replaced it with a WFCO. I do not monitor my voltage. How should I do that? Simple plug in monitor OR install a surge protector with voltage protection and remote display Progressive Industries.....30A or 50A LINK The surge protector will test AC power, shutdown/reset on low & high voltages plus protect from surge and remote will display voltage Next time you need to replace converter...check with these folks about upgraded converter to replace that WFCO....Best Converter Thanks for that monitoring info. The WFCO was the one I just replaced this year. I did talk to Randy as everyone here recommended and he put me on to Progressive Dynamics model.Re: converter and start capacitor replacement j-d wrote: I was buying a RUN capacitor for our home A/C and went to a different shop than I got the failed one from. I mentioned the failed one didn't last very long. Counter person showed me the labeling and said it was a very low-rated part according to some spec that was on it. Showed me the rating on what they were selling and pointed out that it was higher. Ratings were in operating hours, like light bulbs. I like this new shop. Higher rated cap was half the price I'd paid before... I'll have to check that out. The one I just installed was more expensive. I bought it at Camping World. The one that failed was from an A/C place, not a camper place. I went to CW with the failed one clutched in my hot little hand and they wouldn't replace it without the model number of the A/C. There was another 30 mile round trip I didn't want to make! But it was 95 out, so that's what I did.Re: converter and start capacitor replacement smkettner wrote: WFCO has a two year warranty if that helps. I would get a different brand. What was the original or what is the model distribution center? Can't help on start capacitor but I would be tempted to replace the entire unit at 17 years old. Yeah, I was a couple months past the warranty date, sadly. I replaced it with a progressive dynamics. You'd replace the A/C? That would hurt.Re: converter and start capacitor replacementThe old converter died. It was original equipment. I replaced it with a WFCO. I do not monitor my voltage. How should I do that?converter and start capacitor replacementI bought my '96 Coachmen fifth wheel in 2007. In '09, maybe '10, I replaced the start capacitor. In '11, I replaced the converter. In '13, I replaced both the capacitor and converter again. Do I have something specific going on? Bad timing? Bad luck?