All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Special cord for Northern Lite?When trying to figure this out a few years ago, I did a Google search and noted there was a difference between Canadian RV 7-way plug wiring and US standard trailer 7-way wiring. Check it out and use a multi-tester to confirm your setup on the truck.Re: Hitch Extension Questions for Pulling a 7 x 14 Cargo Trailer ticki2 wrote: As far as I know the lower bar on the Supertruss is a tube like the upper. IF it were solid I doubt it would be cast. Some ball mounts are cast. Here is a video of the Supertruss installation. In the vid, you see that the compression tube is solid. Honest, it really is solid. :W Torklift Supertruss InstallRe: Hitch Extension Questions for Pulling a 7 x 14 Cargo Trailer Kayteg1 wrote: OP has 3" receiver and those are rated for 21,000/2,100 lb. Derate them all you want ;). End of the story. Didn't know the OP had a 3" receiver (the Ford's year wasn't mentioned) and your description left me confused. Thanks for the clarification. The story continues......Re: Hitch Extension Questions for Pulling a 7 x 14 Cargo Trailer mkirsch wrote: I've researched this myself extensively. There doesn't seem to be an official de-rating guide for hitch extensions. I suspect that the receiver manufacturers don't want to chime in out of liability fears, "We never said it could be used with an extension, so you're on your own." Except of course Torklift... Some people will tell you that your extension is de-rated 50% no matter how long the extension is, but coming from an engineering background I know that's pure baloney. Most likely you are limited by the capacity of the extension itself rather than the de-rated receiver, but while my engineering concepts are still good, my finite element analysis skills are rusty as 20 year old truck. I personally run a homebuilt extension that IIRC gives me around 16" of extra length. It's just a 24" Curt "weldable receiver tube" with an extra cross hole drilled in it, and two 15000lb D-rings welded on to it for safety chains. Short safety chains secure the D-rings to the factory receiver, and then the trailer safety chains attach to the D-rings. I've always wondered what the rating/capacity on this extension would be. This was a site that helped with perspective. As always with engineers, use a pinch of salt. TC and hitch/weight info site.....Re: Hitch Extension Questions for Pulling a 7 x 14 Cargo Trailer Kayteg1 wrote: With 3" receiver you are fooling around using 2.5" extension with reducers. I bought 3 ft of 3" tubing for $35 and per rough calculation the 3" tubing is stronger than double bars SuperTruss. Lighter too. The only issue with 3" tubing is that it has weld along the inside, but since I was using reducer for my 2" ball mount, I just grind notch in the reducer. I don't really understand the above - The Supertruss lower truss bar is solid cast. I am no structural engineer but I cannot agree that a 3ft tube of welded steel is stronger than a trussed set with a solid lower truss..... but you are right; the Supertruss is heavy. The hitch on the truck comes only as 2.5 not 3 inch, so you are placing the 3 inch OVER the adapter and the ball mount?Re: Hitch Extension Questions for Pulling a 7 x 14 Cargo TrailerI have a 32-inch Torklift Supertruss Extension with SuperHitch on 2015 Sierra 3500 SB - Single axle. 2500# Northern Lite TC in the bed pulling a 4500# Barefoot Nautique. Few Comments: 1) The difference between the stock hitch and a Superhitch is night and day. There is no movement of the Supertruss and the trailer is rock solid at all times. (no weight distribution hitch) 2) Double check your tongue weight - the rule of thumb is 10% trailer weight if loaded properly. 3) Look up hitch extension carrying capacities online. You will see that increasing length DRASTICALLY decreases load carrying on a single receiver hitch. 4) There is a SIGNIFICANT cost but you said "want to feel and be safe when towing" - The Superhitch and Supertruss are the tickets. 5) It is fine backing a trailer with an extension. I launch and retrieve my Nautique on about any boat ramp. If there is light, I can get there (even without light at times). If you are going to traveling all over, don't fret about your hitch. You'll have trailer tires and hubs, low bridges, closed campgrounds, fuel stops and more to think about. Don't max out the hitch - it will keep you and your fellow motorists safer.Re: Fast Gun locksWe use the Fastguns and locks. We like them. Lost a single lock (fell off - perhaps not fully latched?) and Torklift was good about getting a keyed-alike replacement. Not cheap but didn't have to mess with 2 keys or buy a new set of 4. Thumbs up.Re: Northern Lite ?On mine, it's the rear porch light switch (8-11Q)Re: Need Help DecidingThe smallest is 600# (per website). Webpage even shows them on a Tundra.....(target audience)Re: Need Help DecidingCheck out Capri campers.. Many Rodeo Cowboys do what you want to do with Capris. I would imagine they are easier to get a hold of than an Australian design. Check 'em out!
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 06, 202544,025 Posts