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Winterizing Question

rfloyd99
Explorer
Explorer
I'm winterizing my TT for the second time, following the instructions in the TT's owner's manual. The pump is plumbed with a pipe designed to be inserted into a container of antifreeze so you can pump AF throughout the entire plumbing system. This seems to result in all the pipes being full of AF, including the part of the water pump that water (and AF) pass through. This is what I did when I first winterized it three years ago. The RV survived a very cold high-altitude Colorado winter with no problems.

This time I read the separate water pump manual. It says to disconnect both inlet and outlet pipes and run the pump until all water is expelled. This would be a PITA, and would probably result in water on the pump compartment floor. The manual doesn't seem to contemplate that I could be pumping AF throughout the system. It just suggests that AF be poured down the drains to protect the P traps.

My 1st question is, can I ignore the WP manual since it seems the pump's water-containing parts will be full of antifreeze?

2nd question: The TT manual says to open the low point drains, then close them after all water has drained out of the tank. The drain valves are cheap plastic - if they're closed isn't it possible the valves could have some water in them that would then freeze? I don't remember what I did three years ago.

Some of you must be very experienced at winterizing - any suggestions?

Thanks.
14 REPLIES 14

pianotuna
Traveler
Traveler
110 psi oiless compressor

male garden hose to compressor

first blow out drain plug in water heater; then by pass to continue blowing out lines. I do leave the plug out during the winter.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
Here is what I do. I've been known to winterize 7 times in a year.

1. drain the water heater
2. blow out the lines with compressed air, one faucet at a time.
3. by pass the water heater
4. install antifreeze
5. blow out the antifreeze catching as much as I can.


For me there are lots of missing pieces to this explanation. What kind of compressor? I have a tire inflator, nothing more. What fittings are needed? Where do you access the lines and fixtures in order to blow them out? If you drain the water heater, do you put the drain plug back so that you can blow out hw lines?

wa8yxm
Explorer
Explorer
rfloyd99 wrote:


This time I read the separate water pump manual. It says to disconnect both inlet and outlet pipes and run the pump until all water is expelled. This would be a PITA, and would probably result in water on the pump compartment floor. The manual doesn't seem to contemplate that I could be pumping AF throughout the system. It just suggests that AF be poured down the drains to protect the P traps.


Well the way you did it last time worked so why change?

The idea is to get all water out of the pump.. And using the suction hose on a bottle of Pink Stuff does the job just fine..

Myself. I used pink the first time and AIR after that. I mean if I fill the lines with air. and the air freezes.. I'm not going to worry about the RV (Breathing, That will be the problem, I rather enjoy breathing). (If my wording makes you laugh. That's ok. Laugh away. I'm not offended).
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Grit_dog
Explorer III
Explorer III
Bobbo wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Here is what I do. I've been known to winterize 7 times in a year.

1. drain the water heater
2. blow out the lines with compressed air, one faucet at a time.
3. by pass the water heater
4. install antifreeze
5. blow out the antifreeze catching as much as I can.

This is known as the belt and suspenders approach. Either 1 through 3, OR, 3 through 5 should be enough. Doing both is unnecessary, but hurts nothing. However, keep in mind that where pianotuna lives, it gets colder than, say, Florida.


But water doesn't freeze til 0 deg up there...
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
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Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
Here is what I do. I've been known to winterize 7 times in a year.

1. drain the water heater
2. blow out the lines with compressed air, one faucet at a time.
3. by pass the water heater
4. install antifreeze
5. blow out the antifreeze catching as much as I can.

This is known as the belt and suspenders approach. Either 1 through 3, OR, 3 through 5 should be enough. Doing both is unnecessary, but hurts nothing. However, keep in mind that where pianotuna lives, it gets colder than, say, Florida.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

pianotuna
Traveler
Traveler
Here is what I do. I've been known to winterize 7 times in a year.

1. drain the water heater
2. blow out the lines with compressed air, one faucet at a time.
3. by pass the water heater
4. install antifreeze
5. blow out the antifreeze catching as much as I can.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
The antifreeze method eliminates the need to unhook pipes and drain the water pump.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

mooky_stinks
Explorer
Explorer
No need to drain pump and after winterizing you can open low point drains and let any water out and antifreeze will follow. Also don’t forget to take screen off city water connection and push check valve to let water out. Do this last after winterizing. Make sure pressrin system is minimal or you’ll get an antifreeze bath.
2020 F150 XL Screw 4x4 6.5”box
3.5 ecoboost Max tow HDPP
7850 GVW. 4800 RAWR
2565 payload

2020 Cougar 29RKS 5th wheel

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
In response to enblethen‘s post, no water…no freezing. Air it out.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

BB_TX
Traveler
Traveler
With antifreeze in the pump there is no need to drain that pump.

Fizz
Explorer
Explorer
Also...
After draining the antifreeze into a container dump it in the drain P traps.

rfloyd99
Explorer
Explorer
My manual recommends both methods, I chose the AF because my son-in-law helped me and that's how he always did it. Also, he had several gallons of AF available. I do drain the WH and include the drains, outside shower and toilet in the process.

nickthehunter
Explorer
Explorer
Drain the water heater. Then bypass the water heater - open faucets to allow air in. Then open the low point drains and drain whatever water is there out; open a couple faucets furthest away to aid this draining - close the drains. Then pump antifreeze through the whole system, every faucet, both hot and cold. Then open the low point drains again and let whatever antifreeze behind them drain. Close the drains and you should be good to go.

enblethen
Traveler
Traveler
I do not run antifreeze through the system. I use my air compressor to blow out the lines. Draining the water heater before and after blowing lines. Apply air pressure through the city water connection, then open each valve in the system, outside shower and toilet.
I use a small (cup or two) amount of antifreeze in the drains and in the toilet.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker