wa8yxm
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Joined 19 years ago
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Re: Progressive RV Insurance requires you to have another car?
rk911 wrote: wa8yxm wrote: I do not think it is fraud. I think they don't want you using your rather expensive RV as a "Daily Driver" and want to be sure you have a "Daily Driver" for things like going to Church on Sunday or running to the store for a pound of hotdogs. It's fraud IF the OP claims to have a non-existing second vehicle in order to qualify for the policy and then submits a claim under that policy. Well yes.. I was addressing the Company policy. not the possibility a client would lie and say "yes I have another vehicle" Of course I always had another vehicle.. A very nice Bicycle. (Human powered type). (I also did not have progressive on the RV).2.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: advent ACM150 ac unit, seems like good price?
I posted elsewhere... I had one. and though it worked well and was indeed cheaper than the alternative. When it came time to clean the condenser it was a witch of a job.. THe cover on the condenser is sealed with tape and attached when Bent tabs so I had to cut the tape and unbend the tabe. then the cover for the evap.. Well it's all the same piece of metal. So I ended up bending it in the middle where it was not covering anyhing.. That's my major complaint. both of the other brands I had were easier to clean.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Ok to run shore power without battery?
StirCrazy wrote: looks like your converter is fried. should be 13.6 to 13.7 with no battery hooked up. so, you likely need a new converter and a new battery I'd need to haul some serious test gear into his rig to make an "Diagnosis" but. 13.6 volts DC is not the same as 13.6 RMS. The old Magnetek 6300 Well if you read on the older analog volt meters the DC out was like 12-12.6 but if you read on the type of hardware I have you saw 18 volts (Depending on the device. I have both kinds) so his 12 volts... might just be poor filtering of a supply with lots of ripple. Or it may be a very smart converter that says "Well I do not sense a battery so I'll go with the lower voltage" Some I'm told do that. never seen one but that's not the business i'm in. But if you are planning on running w/o battery by all means. If it's a trailer you need to tow.. Use a battery tender on the disconnected battery. re-connect to tow Or upgrade converter to a Progressive Dynamics 9200 series. (or 4600 if it's part of the power distribuition assembly).2.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood water heater problem
I am thinking you might have and air/fuel ratio issue.. (Air shutter on the burner may need adjustment) but... frankly check out the other stuff too... That's really about the only adjustment on the thing other than ignition spark gap spacting and since it's lighting.. that's good.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Ok to run shore power without battery?
ScottG wrote: but you don't need it to make the converter create clean power - at least not a converter from 2007. Good that you added "From 2007" as some of the older (Magnetek) you did need a battery or what they called a "Battery simulator" (Hardening capacitor is another name for it.. ONE HIGH CAPACITY Condenser like a farad or two) to clean things up.1.9KViews0likes0CommentsRe: 2005 Safari Simba Hot Water heater 120 volt Electric
dougrainer wrote: That is an Atwood. The Tstat and electric element are behind that black plastic box. Odds are from how old the W/H is, the element has burned out. Doug Atwood the T-Stat is outside comprtment and is the same T-Stat as the propane side.. Same for the ECO It's surburan that uses two pair of T_Stats. The faint light when siwtched off indicates either a mis-wired switch or a bad control board (The black thing upper right outside) or other wiring issue I'd rank the suspects in that order. On the switch there are 3 contacts. HOT-Switched-Ground HOT will have 12 volts to any solid ground. Does even if disconnected Ground will be the SAME COLOR as on the propane switch. Likely either black or white .... And switched. is the one remaining Look at the propane switch connections.. Hot and ground are the same on both and should be the same color wire.. The "Switched" lead will be.. the remaining wire. and likely different color depending on Gas or Propane. Might also be a bad switch.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Ok to run shore power without battery?
I half agree with the person who said something is wrong with the converter. The reason it's only half is there is a "Suspect #2" (or perhaps #1) and that is the battery. Either the converter is putting out high voltage (your lights will be super bright and likely not last long story follows) or the battery MIGHT have one or more cells shorted (your volt meter is your friend.. Resting should be 12.6 Put a small load on it (I like automotive test lights.. Look like an ice pick with a bulb in the handle and a wire with clip lead.> Add 25-50 feet of say 18 or 20 ga wire (with a clip on one end and a ring terminal on the other) and you have a very useful tool.... Test fuses swiftly.. Find broken wires (12 volt side of life only) and more very fast and very easy) If the light goes dim after a few seconds.. Shorted cell (you don't need the extension ground lead for battery testing) Oh the extension lead.. Like I said put a ring terminal on one end or strip back an inch or two twist loop and solder This is so you can clamp the test lights clip on and a clip on the other.. Then Fold in half and re-roll on the spool it came on (or put one end through the center holes and move it to the middle and re-roll. That way you only need to unroll enough when you need it. But use a volt meter even if it's a 10 buck horrible frieight special to measure battery and House voltages with the battery disconnected.... Post results.654Views1like0CommentsRe: how delicate and fussy are LFP batteries
time2roll wrote: My set of GC2 were far more maintenance and care than the current LFP. And much lower cost, Heavier per watt hour And have a totaly diferent "Run down" profile. IN short. there are advantages and disadvantages to both. I have a LI powered flashlight... One time it worked perfectly next time no light... Inspiration struck and I dropped the battery in the x-Charger (Smart device that says "OH. LI pack. OK I know what to do with that) and sure enough the light worked again. The battery went from near full voltage to zero in dang near nothing flat. Lead acid (and standard flashlight) it gets dim. and dimmer, and dimmest and then it fails.... But with the LI it was ON/OFF just like that. This is actually a good thing.863Views0likes0CommentsRe: how delicate and fussy are LFP batteries
pianotuna wrote: not much data. Too bad. outdoor winter in Las Vegas would be long sleeved shirt for me. How does that saying go... Been there..... Done that. Yup. Some companies (Battle born I think) Build heaters into the battery case so if it's Co-Co-Co-Cold out the heater kicks in and once it's up to temp the charger charges... Some companies CLAIM they do that. (I should end it there but alas on another forum I have an agonizer who would point out that I should not assume you can figure out what I did not say so I will restate) Some companies CLAIM they do.. but they don't and you can end up with damage. Many companies do not make that claim at all. The LiFePO4's I have do not have heaters.. But they are small and easily brought into warmth. The Battery Management system (Built into the battery's case) is very important for it prevents over charging. over heating and one hopes. Too cold charging. Beyond that I understand those batteries are rather rugged.863Views0likes0CommentsRe: Inverter Output Power Question
KenS999 wrote: Hello, If for example, an RV pure sine wave inverter is rated at 2,000W continuous output power and is equipped with three electrical outlets, would each individual outlet be limited to only 1/3 of the available 2000W or... can a single outlet draw the entire 2000 Watts of available output power, if the remaining two outlets are not used? Thanks, Ken Most outlets are only rated for 15 amps short term 12.5 long or 1500 watts if you like RV outlets about 2/3 of that safely due to the way they are built. But if you have upgraded to 12 ga wire or bigger feeding 15/20 amp outlets then you can plug a 2,000 watt load into a single outlet and it will be OK. NOTE: If they are daisy chained like this. Inverter=====Outlet1=====Outlet2=====Outlet3 Then the first outlet (Outlet1) carries the FULL load of all 3 thorough it's punch down connector.. at 2,000 watts this can start a fire. Also note that where the inverter puts out Watts. the wires and outlets deliver amps.. Most folks think watts/volts = amps that is not correct for inductive loads like motors IS for resistive loads like heaters. but not for motors (The fan in a forced air heater is not big enough to make a serious difference) Watts = Volts * Amps * Power factor I've seen some seriously LOW power factors.1.7KViews0likes0Comments
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