Forum Discussion

missnmountains's avatar
Dec 10, 2013

Best of Alaska with 4 to 6 weeks

We are planning a trip to Alaska from Colorado late May 2014 to early July 2014.

For those of you that have gone, what would you suggest to be the best places to spend our limited time.

We are planning on leaving Colorado to Sacramento to spend a couple of days with our son. Then head up to Canada and take the Alaskan Highway.

I appreciate any advise you may offer.

Ken
  • missnmountain --

    if you have not yet checked out the 'roll call alaska 2014' thread you might want to. there is a lot of really good info there.
  • Break out the different reasons you want to go to Alaska and what do you want to see and do. Most visitors go with some specific places they want to see and other treat Alaska as a place to make a U turn to head home.

    With 6 weeks from Colorado, that gives you about 42 to 45 days overall. From Denver to Fairbanks is right at 3,100 miles so I would time budget that at about 6 to 7 driving days each way. Then I would add in a few stops such as a couple of days in Whitehorse, a day in Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park, on the way up and then come back down the Cassiar Highway, Hwy 37, from the Junction 13 miles north of Watson Lake, YT, spend a couple of days on the Cassiar, taking the side road into Stewart-Hyder on Hwy 37A, three great provincial parks on the Cassiar Hwy, and some private ones as well. I would allow about 20 to 25 days for the to and from parts of the trip. Then the remaining time in Alaska. I also really enjoy driving the Top of the World Hwy from Dawson Town to Tetlin Junction, just east of Tok. Dawson Town is worth a day or two to many of us as it is a great history lesson of the Gold Rush days.

    Doing the tourist circle will give a first or second timer a good taste of what Alaska has to offer a visitor. The Fairbanks region is my favorite as this is the part of Alaska I still consider to be home. PA12 has listed some of the stuff to do there, I would add a trip out to Chena Hot springs if time allows.
    Then go south on the Parks Highway, stopping at Denali to view Mount McKinley and on to the urban sprawl of the Anchorage Bowl area, resupply if needed and head on south to spend a few days on the Kenai, Valdez is a real nice visit, one of our favorites, it is one of the only coastal towns accessible by highway, that is not over run by residents of Anchorage on the weekends. Still somewhat quaint, a couple of great boat tours, Stephens and the Lula Belle with Capt Fred, are both outstanding, I never get tired of the trips out to see the glaciers meeting the sea.

    Then after you get off the Cassiar at Kitwanga Junction, go east to Prince George, resupply if needed, then head on east to Jasper and go south on the Ice Fields Parkway, probably not a more beautiful drive in North America, and on to the US-Canadian border, then head back to Colorado to start planning your return visit to spend more time in the places that gave you the greatest "wow" factors.

    A lot seems to depend on where a person is from and where they grew up, folks from Badwater Texas usually are very impressed with the mountains, lakes, rivers, etc. where people from the mountain states find other "wow" things to remember. As a former Ozark American (formerly referred to as an Okie) anything with water gets my attention, hot springs, rivers, waterfalls, etc. Photo opps are everywhere, wildlife, scenery, etc.
    It is a trip of a lifetime for most and one you can do over and over as many of us on the forum tend to do. The Alaska Hwy is no longer a wilderness highway, but is now a good paved secondary road through a beautiful wilderness. Drive at a speed appropriate to the road conditions and all usually will go fine.

    Here is some more verbiage from my web sit,e about what to do with 2 weeks in Alaska, primarily written for the fly and rent visitors.
    http://www.pajbcooper.com/two_weeks_in_alaska.htm
  • We made it as far as West Edmonton this past summer when I came down with a serious case of A-Fib and had to turn back. Had a real bad time trying to get past Calgary due to the flooding. Really gave my GPS a work out. Ended up spending five days in the hospital in Billings, MT. Had to get our son in law to drive our truck back pulling our TT. Want to try it again, but definitely need a better driving plan.
  • PA12DRVR wrote:
    I've got a bit different view ( I guess) than some of the others. While it always depends on your personal interests, I don't see the Kenai as a place to go to UNLESS you're using it as a jumping off spot to go fishing, flightseeing, etc.

    If I had 4 - 6 weeks to go from Colorado - Alaska - Colorado, I'd suggest:

    - Spend plenty of time in Western B.C.
    - Spend plenty of time in the Kluane and Destruction Bay area (I know all of this is in Canada, but I always found it very scenic)
    (for Alaska....)
    - My favorite area to drive is the Denali Highway. Relatively rough gravel road, but I'd take 3 days or more for this......I think this drive should be made if you can even if backtracking is required
    - Drive to Fairbanks on the Glenn/Parks Highway. Enjoy Talkeetna on the way up. Enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery before and around Cantwell and Healy.
    - Stop at Denali National Park for as long as you can put up with all the tourists. :) If you're into hiking and backpacking, take a couple of day hikes away from the buses.
    - Take a riverboat cruise in Fairbanks
    - Enjoy the various Museums in Fairbanks, including at UAF
    - Drive the old highway from Fairbanks to Glenallen. See just a touch of the real Alaska.
    - Drive from Glenallen to Valdez. Nicest (IMNSHO) pavement drive in AK.
    - Take a cruise (Stan Stephens is good) out of Valdez.
    - (Maybe) take either the fast ferry or the slow ferry from Valdez to Anchorage or backtrack Valdez - Glenallen and drive from Glenallen to Anchorage.
    - (Assuming they're still in business next year) Stop for coffee and pie at the Eureka Roadhouse
    - In Anchorage, visit the museum (Anchorage) and the Alaska Flight Museum (at Ted Stevens International Airport); view the busiest seaplane base in the world (Lake Hood) if so inclined
    - Take a sightseeing tour out of Anchorage to see McKinley.
    - Drive to Girdwood; eat dinner at 7 Glaciers or at Double Musky
    - Drive on down to either Seward or Homer (longer!); catch a charter for Halibut.
    - Head back :(


    This is a good start my list. I think once we get the key places identified we can start the routing process. We do hope to spend a little bit of time in BC. However I have been through there a couple of times up through the Okanagan Valley in BC to Penticton for Ironman Canada. Very Beautiful.

    Thanks

    Ken
  • I've got a bit different view ( I guess) than some of the others. While it always depends on your personal interests, I don't see the Kenai as a place to go to UNLESS you're using it as a jumping off spot to go fishing, flightseeing, etc.

    If I had 4 - 6 weeks to go from Colorado - Alaska - Colorado, I'd suggest:

    - Spend plenty of time in Western B.C.
    - Spend plenty of time in the Kluane and Destruction Bay area (I know all of this is in Canada, but I always found it very scenic)
    (for Alaska....)
    - My favorite area to drive is the Denali Highway. Relatively rough gravel road, but I'd take 3 days or more for this......I think this drive should be made if you can even if backtracking is required
    - Drive to Fairbanks on the Glenn/Parks Highway. Enjoy Talkeetna on the way up. Enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery before and around Cantwell and Healy.
    - Stop at Denali National Park for as long as you can put up with all the tourists. :) If you're into hiking and backpacking, take a couple of day hikes away from the buses.
    - Take a riverboat cruise in Fairbanks
    - Enjoy the various Museums in Fairbanks, including at UAF
    - Drive the old highway from Fairbanks to Glenallen. See just a touch of the real Alaska.
    - Drive from Glenallen to Valdez. Nicest (IMNSHO) pavement drive in AK.
    - Take a cruise (Stan Stephens is good) out of Valdez.
    - (Maybe) take either the fast ferry or the slow ferry from Valdez to Anchorage or backtrack Valdez - Glenallen and drive from Glenallen to Anchorage.
    - (Assuming they're still in business next year) Stop for coffee and pie at the Eureka Roadhouse
    - In Anchorage, visit the museum (Anchorage) and the Alaska Flight Museum (at Ted Stevens International Airport); view the busiest seaplane base in the world (Lake Hood) if so inclined
    - Take a sightseeing tour out of Anchorage to see McKinley.
    - Drive to Girdwood; eat dinner at 7 Glaciers or at Double Musky
    - Drive on down to either Seward or Homer (longer!); catch a charter for Halibut.
    - Head back :(
  • It is a loooong way, try if you can to spend as much time as you can. The biggest expense will be fuel, whether you spend 4 weeks or longer.
  • Definitely the Kenai Peninsula and Denali Nat'l Park. Also include if you can, Valdez & the Stan Stephens Glacier Tour (pre-buy in TourSaver book online for 1/2 price on many attractions), Haines and Skagway. But there is so much more to see along your trip north.

    Also recommended is Mike & Terri Church's book 'Alaskan Camping'. It will be your bible for RV park, public campgrounds and even great boondocking spots. You can order it online. Your time is going to go by fast. Have a good one!
  • Thanks DesertHawk. As this is our first trip to Alaska, I want to build an itinerary that will get us the biggest bank for our buck.

    Most of what you listed is on our must see list.

    Thanks

    Ken
  • The Kenai Penisula has some really near areas to visit. Such as Homer Spit, Kenai River by Soldotna, Russian River Area where it joins the Kenai, and Seward is a very neat town/area.

    Can't go wrong in going by Denali Nat'l Pk on the way to or from Anchorage to Fairbanks. One could also return by going to Valdez by taking the hwy from Palmer to Glennallen then return to the Alaska Hwy at Delta Junction. Or go to Valdez from Delta Junction first, then to Palmer/Anchorage. Return by Denali & Fairbanks. Chitina is off the Hwy to Valdez, the Copper River is kind of neat to see over by Chitina.

    Our Trip 2013 Mainly in Seward but a few days down toward Soldotna.

    What I have on Alaska. Has some information on Fairbanks & Dalton Highway.

    :C We had very delicious Burgers (Cheese Burgers), even an excellent mushroom veggie burger at Chattermark Restaurant with 1/3 lb. patties in the old town area of Seward, Alaska & Red's Burgers were equally good being made & sold out of an old bus in a gravel parking area:


    'Old Town' Seward viewed from Sea Life Center.


    School Bus is a dinning car now.

    Red's Burgers Seward, very nice selection, delicious 1/3 lb. patties. Great milk shades as well.

    Lot of Fishing going on at the Russian/Kenai Rivers when the Salmon are running. Homer has Fishing Tour Boats for Halibut, but Seward would as well as would Valdez. If wanting to fish.

    Seward and Whittier both have sight seeing tours on Prince Williams Sound. We did one from Whittier in 2010. It was very nice. Our son & family have also gone from Seward. Different Glaciers to see, etc.

    Went in 2010 to Denali after the tourist season was over, one could drive more into the park. Nice sunny day, but never got to Denali due to clouds covering it in the distance. Drove by Denali & even stay just outside the park entrance this summer. But no sign of the mountain. Returning from Anchorage 9 days later, we got to see it as driving up toward the entrance from down not far out of Anchorage. Near the Denali State Park. Got great photos at a nice pullout with lot of parking & restrooms. Between the State Park & the National Park.

    We have not made it Valdez yet.