How do you keep power on when the voltage is 130?

Looks like i'm a bit late to the party but I thought my over voltage issue was unique. I finally sold my whole coach surge suppressor since it kept cutting my electric in the middle of the night due to over voltage. I now just run straight from the 50amp pedestal. This is at my own lot in San Felipe and I know the power/pedestal is good. I run surge suppressors on my electronic equipment where possible and have used the line conditioner that smkettner posted but they only last a couple years then die. I've tried several times to get CFE to come out and do something but you know how that goes. So my solution now is I just go enjoy myself and hope for the best with what's in place. Probably not the best solution but 10 years in and no failures.

Almot

You do not want to go below 3.1 V per cell with LFP. We have 9. kW-hrs of LFP in house bank for our 5th wheel. We now have 17 months solar autonomy with these and have been quite satisifed

To get around the problems with voltage changes, we now take all electricity through a 15 amp plug to 1.5 kW of battery charger (to 48 V) to controller, to battery bank (48 V nominal, basically 16 CALB LFP cells in series as 4 x 12 V nominal batteries) and then 12 V and 110 V AC through 4.0 kW PSW inverter.
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We had problems with electricity at the same place we spent three winters with Keelhauler. Son and family came down to visit and brought original set of battery chargers and have used this concept since. If we ever get things worked out with Mexican customs concerning cancelling our old Temporary Import Licenses from our wreck of 20 months ago, we shall return to Yucatan (John and Peggy, you have been warned LOL)
Reed and Elaine

Apologies I did not see the entire thread. Good answer !

Why are you not keeping power ? Has something tripped a breaker or relay? Is there a Surge Suppression unit in the system keeping the power off?

I think this was explained above. Some RV parks in MX are old and wiring may be insufficient for today's demands. They may only have 15amp service. Or a lower power transformer. Could be many reasons. I wrote about some of them previously in this thread and other threads about electricity in MX.

Why are you not keeping power ? Has something tripped a breaker or relay? Is there a Surge Suppression unit in the system keeping the power off?

briansue wrote:
Some RV parks in Mexico already say you cannot run your AC as it draws too much power. This has to do with their electric bills. But also because there is not enough power available to supply everyone. If everyone maxes out their pedestal then no one in the park will have enough.

When I don't run rooftop A/C, I don't need 110V AC either. Daily draw of my trailer in winter is under 0.8 KWH. Medium size solar on the roof supplies 0.5 KWH on a dark day, or 1-1.2 KWH if there is any sun at all, and this is in winter. Can't have this in the shade, though there isn't much shade in Baja anyway.

Senor Mex - forgive my ignorance, but how low voltage could blow your lithium batteries?

With regard to surge protection. Until recently I found only a couple products regularly advertised to help protect your electrical systems Surge guard and Progressive. Because of my interest in protecting my Class A Diesel pusher I located a company in Destin Florida that has been very active in surge protection for many years. Surge Suppression Inc. has products available only under special order. The difference I found with there product is 1) Warranty 2) not only does there unit have standard clamping ( major spikes) but they also have sign wave tracking and frequency response ( small continuous spike protection the two most common effects that can create havoc with your electrical components). To the best of my knowledge there are only a couple people at SSI involved with placing a special orders. iking@surgesuppression.com,mbarton@surgesuppression.com or an affiliated company CTK Specialty Services LLC t.giffordctk@gmail.com. They will build the unit to your specifications ( cable length, perminant install etc.)

If you knew the number of RV parks that use ZERO fasteners in their connections, you would faint. Twist the junctions together with lineman's pliers then wrap with Chinese electrical tape. Bury underground. Make access holes with concrete lids. And you say you demand to use 50-amp 254 volt service?

dedicated 5 volt positive and 5 volt negative required to the circuit

Yep - that is what the power supply that comes with the equipment does - changes the incoming 120VAC to a lower VDC level - usually 5VDC. The current running around inside the device can be even lower - into microvolts. By the time the current gets to the processor (CPU) it is so low it is almost immeasurable. A good power supply provides a computer with what it needs to operate even with fluctuating low voltage - or high voltage. It works but it may not like it - and the computer may slow down and die prematurely. So our laptops run off their own batteries and have a DC power supply to charge the battery. A CPU is made up of millions of microscopic transistors - sort of. When I went to Navy electronics school they were still teach tube theory with only a couple weeks on transistors - most of our equipment in the field was still tubes. Just before I got out of the Navy someone brought in a very early "chip" and we all got to look at it under a microscope. That was in 1968 - technology has come a long way since then.

briansue wrote:

most solid state circuits run at around 5 to 7 volts.

This would be DC volts - not AC. The power supply for most computers changes the incoming AC to DC. Even TVs, DVD players, sound system etc. run on DC. True - some power supplies will run on a wide range of incoming volts - but not all will.

I have a computer built into our dashboard for navigation. It runs totally off the house batteries - does not plug into AC at all. A couple years ago I completely rebuilt the computer and had a hard time finding a DC to DC power supply. The rest of the computer was just like any other computer.

A few years ago we were more or less forced to replace our exploding Norcold with a residential fridge. Many others have done this. Online research led us to a Whirlpool because it was the only one that would fit the hole the Norcold came out of. Our research showed that some people had problems with the Whirlpool if incoming voltage was not right. Other RVers who had room replaced with a Samsung fridge that had some different power requirements and had no problems with weird voltage. These fridges have circuit boards that control everything from temperature to ice maker - weird voltage can mess up the circuit board.

There are lots of other things in an RV that prefer seeing a nice clean 120 volts AC.

Like I mentioned before, You two are way beyond my knowledge so I am just having fun.
I thought all solid state circuits, made of transistors, capacitors diodes, blah. blah, blah All ran on DC. Then, from what I have seen , have dedicated 5 volt positive and 5 volt negative required to the circuit... As just an example.

As transistors were when I was playing they were NPN or PNP, that was years ago, but dedicated solid voltage was a requirement.

I think that anything that requires a clean 120 AC voltage that is made in the USA borderlines on poor quality and more profits. Rvers already pay 3 times more for products due to special sizing mostly. Another $10 per appliance would allow them to travel with less fear of an expensive repair.