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profdant139's avatar
profdant139
Explorer II
Jun 17, 2014

Semi-remote subalpine camping and hiking in BC?

A couple of years ago, we took the best trip of our lives to the national parks of the Canadian Rockies -- jaw-dropping scenery, day after day, for several weeks. The only drawback (and it was very minor) is that some of the campgrounds were a little busy and were located at relatively low elevations. We are used to camping in the Eastern Sierra, where the high country campgrounds are fairly empty (except on weekends and holidays). And often, we boondock way out in the middle of nothing, which is permitted in the national forests (but not in the national parks).

So, I have spent a lot of time poring through the excellent BC Provincial Parks website, looking for something that may not exist -- we are hoping to find quieter RV-accessible camping in close proximity to good day hiking in alpine terrain.

The reason that I say that this may not exist is that unlike California, where there are quite a few canyon roads that stop almost at treeline, the Canadian roads seem to stay mostly in the river valleys. That makes sense, of course -- why build a road into the mountains when you can use the valleys? But it means that there is not a lot of vehicle-accessible camping in mountainous terrain.

Apart from the campground issue, the other problem that I am finding is that once one gets away from the heavily used parks, the hiking trails get pretty sketchy, with indistinct markings and lots of bushwhacking through the willows and boulder-hopping and thousands of vertical feet to get to open alpine terrain. Again, this is not surprising -- in such remote locations with so few visitors, it is unlikely that the park personnel will spend a lot of time and money to create less-demanding trails.

No matter what, we will be heading back to BC to camp in Glacier National Park, the Kootenays, and so forth -- but it would be nice if we could experience both types of camping.

Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated!

14 Replies

  • Others have some good suggestions here like Kokanee provincial park near Nelson. You could also camp somewhere north of Kaslo like Lost Ledges campground (Provincial campground right on Kootenay lake) and then drive to a number of hikes such as Monica meadows or Kokanee park from the East side. Another suggestion would be to camp in one of the forestry sites along the Horsethief creek road west of Radium and then do one of the many hikes up that drainage. Lake of the Hanging glaciers is a beauty and there are many others in the trail guides. The idea of Whiteswan lake and then day hikes in the Top of the World park is a good one though the 1 hour drive then a 1-2 hour hike to the start of the day hikes would make your days fairly long unless you pack a tent in and camp at Fish Lake. The hike to Fish lake is an easy one on an excellent trail and there are 4 really nice day hikes from the lake.

    You and others are correct in concluding that the roads and campgrounds are all at low elevation so you are faced either with a long hike to the alpine or a drive up roads which often are rough followed by a pretty long hike.

    Let me know if you need more advice re: the East Kootenays as I hike a lot around here.
  • There are a ton of logging roads and some mining roads that will lead up close to the high alpine, however the campgrounds as you said are in the valley bottoms. The reason is the length of time the winter snow stays around here. Just last week we had a cool low front come through and the hills just above our campsite were covered in fresh snow, and there is still snow up there left over form last winter.
    Couple of places that you may want to check into for hiking but not camping at the same location are:
    Kokanee Glacier, you can drive up from the Kootenay lake side and hike in to the Glacier and back to the parking lot in a day hike. Today I couldn't do it but we did it in high school and my friends do it often.
    Valhalla provincial park, this hike is longer and I haven't done it before but those friends of mine have note sure of the site, but when we are driving up the Slocan valley We can see the New Denver glacier from the hwy, however it is a bit of a drive to the trail head.
    Cody Caves are a really easy hike .
    There is also the hike up Old Glory near Rossland BC another day hike. You cam camp at Nancey Greene lake provincial park and drive the 15 or 20 km to the trail head.
    Here are a couple of wed site to check out.
    Soup.
    Old Glory
    Around New Denver
    Valhalla
    Kokanee Glacier
  • One area that comes to mind is the Top of the World provincial park.
    Take the White Swan Lake road off 93/95 between Canal Flats and Skookumchuk. Stop for a dip in the Lussier Hot Springs (natural pools) and continue on to the Lake where there is a nice little campground with some sites backing right on the lake.
    The road to the provincial park branches off this road to the south. It is quite remote and best for good weather so be careful. A day trip would probably be best to explore at least at first.
    I don't recommend continuing on the White Swan road past the lake as there are blind corners and logging trucks.It is OK up to the lake, just be aware of the potential of trucks.
    There was a miracle rescue last year of a little boy, strapped in a submerged vehicle in that lake, so be careful.
  • The vast majority of BC backroads were industrial roads, created by logging and mining companies. The logging roads stay more to the valley bottoms where the big timber was, the much-less-common mining roads head into the high country. One of the finest high country spots I've ever mostly-driven into in my life is south of Lillooet - Molybdenum Lake. If you have a little 4x4 toad, Google Earth is a great tool for finding possibilities like this.