I have always stayed at Blackwoods Campground, in the park. There are no hookups there, but you get the full Acadia experience. I would recommend Eagle Lake for kayaking. I always do the hike around the lake and often see kayakers out on the lake. It is beautiful, and almost always there are a pair of loons on the water. Acadia has so much to offer. Don't let the crowds deter you - most don't get out of their cars and miss the wonderful carriage hiking trails and the best views. If you have the energy, the hike up Cadillac Mtn. from near Blackwoods is wonderful. I also highly recommend visiting the Schoodic section of the park, an hour from Bar Harbor. There is a new campground there, with some hookups but no showers. It is a laid back area and the park road there offers great vistas. I go to Maine every other year and this summer is my year for another visit to Maine. This time, I won't be going to Bar Harbor but further up the coast to Cobscook Bay State Park. I much prefer more basic camping and Cobscook is the most beautiful place I've been on the coast. That's another whole story!