There are more than 100 miles of perfectly paved roads within the park with many pull offs at points of interest. If you want to eat out there is a restaurant in the Chisos basin that has a great view of the sunset (combine the meal with a ranger talk later at the basin amphitheater - check the schedule). Outside the park there are small restaurants at Study Butte/Terlingua. The highlights of my visits have been the ranger walks/talks. Attend as many as you can. Stay at the Rio Grande Village area where you can dry camp or get a space with hookups. Unless you have a high clearance vehicle stay off the dirt roads. They're torn up after the fall rains this year (I was there in late October).