Ken, I agree with you in regards to Grand Lake; even though I lived in Estes as you know. And I think Grand Lake has come a long way in the last few years. Too bad the lodge shut down though; we stayed in a "rustic" cabin there several years back.
Estes is now - once they get truly back on their feet again - a tourist trap. But the Park facilities and adventures / opportunities make up for that. Well, kinda.