Add Batteries to Camper
I currently have a camper set up for 120V plug in power. I'd like to add a small battery to run a few things while not plugged. Linked is a Diagram of what I'm planning; the blue stuff is already th...
Forum Discussion
Not a very good circuit diagram of typical RV electrical. You have the 120 V side mixed in with the 12 V circuits. But, if you understand it, that's all that matters.
First, just about everything on that list except the converter I would not buy. It appears that you are buying on low price and that's not always the best choice.
Second, what are you powering and is it essential to have a transfer switch? IMO, transfer switches are problematic and if only powering a few devices, aren't essential.
Third, why do you not already have a battery? In just about all states, any trailer over a certain weight needs a battery to power a break-away emergency braking switch.
Fuses and circuit protection: You will need one circuit breaker or fuse typically mounted within 18" of the battery. Most travel trailers use a self-resetting CB of about 40 amps. You will need a fuse between the inverter and the battery. Mfg of your inverter will have a size recommended. You will need a circuit breaker or fuse between your truck battery and the isolator. This should be in the order of 50 amps or smaller, depending on load and wire size.
You don't mention any 12 V distribution. All travel trailers have a 12 V distribution panel. Each circuit on there has it's own fuse.
If you post the name, year, and model of your trailer, advice can be more specific. If you wish to know why some of the items listed are deemed less than good, ask about them particularly. Initially, that battery is not Absorbed Glass Mat construction. It is Sealed Lead Acid. There are better solutions available.
Also, any advice on some electrical installation bears on how you use your trailer. Share that with us, please.
A couple of links for education: 12 volt side of life
Golden rules (has pertinent wiring info)
First, just about everything on that list except the converter I would not buy. It appears that you are buying on low price and that's not always the best choice.
Second, what are you powering and is it essential to have a transfer switch? IMO, transfer switches are problematic and if only powering a few devices, aren't essential.
Third, why do you not already have a battery? In just about all states, any trailer over a certain weight needs a battery to power a break-away emergency braking switch.
Fuses and circuit protection: You will need one circuit breaker or fuse typically mounted within 18" of the battery. Most travel trailers use a self-resetting CB of about 40 amps. You will need a fuse between the inverter and the battery. Mfg of your inverter will have a size recommended. You will need a circuit breaker or fuse between your truck battery and the isolator. This should be in the order of 50 amps or smaller, depending on load and wire size.
You don't mention any 12 V distribution. All travel trailers have a 12 V distribution panel. Each circuit on there has it's own fuse.
If you post the name, year, and model of your trailer, advice can be more specific. If you wish to know why some of the items listed are deemed less than good, ask about them particularly. Initially, that battery is not Absorbed Glass Mat construction. It is Sealed Lead Acid. There are better solutions available.
Also, any advice on some electrical installation bears on how you use your trailer. Share that with us, please.
A couple of links for education: 12 volt side of life
Golden rules (has pertinent wiring info)
