Add Batteries to Camper
I currently have a camper set up for 120V plug in power. I'd like to add a small battery to run a few things while not plugged. Linked is a Diagram of what I'm planning; the blue stuff is already th...
Forum Discussion
Thanks for the info. I updated the diagram with voltages and the fuses you mentioned. I don’t see where I have high and low voltages crossing.
To westend’s questions:
My list is on the cheap end. I’m not above spending the extra money where needed. Are their particular items not to go cheap? I’m thinking battery and charger. Is there not much benefit in other areas, like that isolator or monitor?
The battery would be called on power a small fridge and a few LED lights. There is a microwave and air conditioning unit on the A/C side but those won’t be run off the battery. The transfer switch would run everything off shore power when available instead of routing through the charger and inverter.
There is a dedicated battery for the emergency brake but it is not nearly big enough to power anything else for long.
There are 12 volt lights powered off the truck battery. I intend to keep them separate.
There trailer is 2005 Cherokee White Cloud. Came stock so all 120V stuff was added aftermarket. The trailer is used for weekend camping so two days off power at the most. The truck would always be available to charge the batteries.
To DrewE’s questions:
I substituted hot for plus and neutral for minus on the 120V side of the diagram
There are two A/C circuits in the trailer; one for the air conditioner and one for everything else. The everything else is a fridge, a microwave, and a few lights. I would need a bigger inverter to put that circuit continually through the charger but seems like the best way.
My truck is a 2013 Silverado with a 7 pin trailer connector. I’ll have to check to see if it is already switched
What surge protector would you recommend? The A/C panel is 30 amp.
DC wire runs will be short. The whole system will be in a single cabinet. I made a new diagram with the changes noted above and more fuses. It’s on the blog.
Thanks for the help. I’m feeling better already.
To westend’s questions:
My list is on the cheap end. I’m not above spending the extra money where needed. Are their particular items not to go cheap? I’m thinking battery and charger. Is there not much benefit in other areas, like that isolator or monitor?
The battery would be called on power a small fridge and a few LED lights. There is a microwave and air conditioning unit on the A/C side but those won’t be run off the battery. The transfer switch would run everything off shore power when available instead of routing through the charger and inverter.
There is a dedicated battery for the emergency brake but it is not nearly big enough to power anything else for long.
There are 12 volt lights powered off the truck battery. I intend to keep them separate.
There trailer is 2005 Cherokee White Cloud. Came stock so all 120V stuff was added aftermarket. The trailer is used for weekend camping so two days off power at the most. The truck would always be available to charge the batteries.
To DrewE’s questions:
I substituted hot for plus and neutral for minus on the 120V side of the diagram
There are two A/C circuits in the trailer; one for the air conditioner and one for everything else. The everything else is a fridge, a microwave, and a few lights. I would need a bigger inverter to put that circuit continually through the charger but seems like the best way.
My truck is a 2013 Silverado with a 7 pin trailer connector. I’ll have to check to see if it is already switched
What surge protector would you recommend? The A/C panel is 30 amp.
DC wire runs will be short. The whole system will be in a single cabinet. I made a new diagram with the changes noted above and more fuses. It’s on the blog.
Thanks for the help. I’m feeling better already.
