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scout266's avatar
scout266
Explorer
Oct 27, 2014

Another digital thermostat question

Ok everybody...I'm pretty new and I know this has been covered quite a bit, but I just wanted to throw this out there.

I have a 2014 StarCraft AR-ONE 16 BH. We did some colder weather camping this spring and the furnace ran fine. However, as many mention, the "hysteresis," or furnace operation occurs with giant swings. The problem is that our TT is quite small and it will get fairly cold (several degrees below the set temp) then kick on like a blast furnace and get many degrees above set point before turning off. My wife pretty much refuses to camp when the furnace is required because she gets so uncomfortable with the super high heat blasts.

I took the TT to a local place here in PHX called RV master techs and asked if they could install a digital thermostat. They said, yeah, should be no prob. About a week later they acted hesitant to do it and that "it wouldn't make much of a difference because your TT is so small...you just need to deal with it."

I'd read all the threads on installing a battery operated digital thermostat (the Hunter model from Wal-Mart) and mentioned it...he seemed to blow that off.

So, I want to install the hunter thermostat myself. However, I'm a little worried about the wiring. I have an atwood mechanical thermostat now and the basic small atwood furnace. My AC is a totally separate system and doesn't use a thermostat.

Has anyone wired the Hunter thermostat for furnace alone, and how will I know which wire goes where once I open it up? Also, if the thermostat uses batteries, does it still have to be connected to the DC power wire (I'm assuming there is one in there). Anyway, I'm sure it isn't hard to do, but just looking for someone who has done the same and specifically with an atwood furnace/thermostat.

19 Replies

  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Red/White wire........goes to R/RC terminal
    White wire............goes to W terminal


    X 2, If you note, the R/RC has a jumper, connect to either pole, doesn't make any difference.
  • Red/White wire........goes to R/RC terminal
    White wire............goes to W terminal
  • I think the white wire will go to the W terminal and the red wire to the R/RC terminal.
  • So I went over to the trailer today and took a look at the back of the mechanical Atwood thermostat. As seen in the pic, there are just the two wires.
    I went to wal-mart and bought the honeywell heat/cool RTH111B thermostat (battery operated). Again, I only have a need for the thermostat to control the furnace.
    So, does anyone want to chime in and tell me/give me an idea on which wire might go where? I will have to go back and take a closer look, but I couldn't tell if the old thermostat showed any writing or a label for the current wires. My initial guess is that the one with red/white comes from the 12 V DC battery. But I just don't know.....
    Would like to go to the trailer tomorrow and try to wire it so any help would be appreciated!



  • No matter the circumstances, I would think you will be happier anyway. I installed a new digital thermostat last Spring. Could not be happier !!!!
    Basic furnace operation in my TT / 2-wires.
    The install was super simple, took about 5-minutes.
    Honeywell # RTH5100B
  • smkettner wrote:
    Heat only should be a slam dunk. Hunter will explain heat only connection.

    Or consider a heat only thermostat. Honeywell

    Also consider a radiator style electric heater to even out the heat some and reduce furnace run time.

    I would be inclined to get an Atwood digital replacement although it will probably cost more.


    Yeah I looked at the one they offer and it looks like it is built to do many more functions. My furnace is the most basic possible
  • Do you guys know if you have a basic mechanical thermostat like Atwood, are there just 2 or 3 wires? I have mine in storage now and can't access it.
  • Heat only should be a slam dunk. Hunter will explain heat only connection.

    Or consider a heat only thermostat. Honeywell

    Also consider a radiator style electric heater to even out the heat some and reduce furnace run time.

    I would be inclined to get an Atwood digital replacement although it will probably cost more.
  • The Hunter will be an improvement but it will still allow the heat to over shoot the set point. In my case this was by 3 degrees.This is because when the room hits the ratget temp, the stat turns off the furnace. Unfortunately the furnace has to run another 60~90 seconds in order to cool down it's heat exchanger in a manner that keeps it from cracking. This is what makes the furnace over shoot the set point. The smaller the area the worse the effect.
    If you get an Energy star rated stat (like I finally did) it will take this over-shoot issue into account and will shut the heat off just before the set point. This allows the cool down period to heat the room to its exact set point.
    The ES rated stat will keep the heat and AC much tighter and use less energy too.

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