Building a "tiny house"

JaxDad wrote:

swimmer_spe wrote:
I just got back from my local trailer shop.

$125 for the propane certification, and I can install it.

I need to contact the ESA for the electrical, but it should be about $500 for the certification.

You’re golden.

The only other issue, if you’re in a permanent spot it’ll be an easy fix, is that no matter what you try to do to keep the weight down you won’t match the featherweight factory build. You will need lots more support than originally used, 4 corner jacks will not cut it. You will also need to get the load off the suspension or you will never get rid of the spring.

Block the frame up perfectly flat & level BEFORE you start building or you will always have issues with doors & windows sticking.

Finally, plumbing is regulated too after the Walkerton fiasco so check ahead of time if you will be ‘plumbed in’ to the campground.

Just whistle if you have any other questions.

Best of luck.

The location I am in has no plumbing to hook up to.
When I build it, I will make sure the frame sits level before I work on the rest. In house construction, if your foundation isn't straight and level, how can the rest be?
I do plan to crib it.

Thank you for your insight.

swimmer_spe wrote:
I just got back from my local trailer shop.

$125 for the propane certification, and I can install it.

I need to contact the ESA for the electrical, but it should be about $500 for the certification.

You’re golden.

The only other issue, if you’re in a permanent spot it’ll be an easy fix, is that no matter what you try to do to keep the weight down you won’t match the featherweight factory build. You will need lots more support than originally used, 4 corner jacks will not cut it. You will also need to get the load off the suspension or you will never get rid of the spring.

Block the frame up perfectly flat & level BEFORE you start building or you will always have issues with doors & windows sticking.

Finally, plumbing is regulated too after the Walkerton fiasco so check ahead of time if you will be ‘plumbed in’ to the campground.

Just whistle if you have any other questions.

Best of luck.

Almot wrote:
Still unclear what exactly he is trying to do - using RV appliances in tiny house on the ground, or building tiny house on RV frame (and salvaging whatever appliances still work).

The first plan is a so-so, because RV appliances are poorly made.

The second plan isn't much better, because RV floor plan is terrible to live in permanently, being long and narrow.

I am building a home built RV. However, it is staying at a trailer park. The only rule there is it must be mobile at all times.
These days, this kind of build is called a tiny home.

swimmer_spe wrote:

azrving wrote:
I take this to mean that you are building an actual tiny house on the ground or do you mean rebuild the RV?

It doesn't seem that the rv appliances would work well, RV windows are usually junk, the cabinets are not like residential and are built in place.

You can buy a much better fridge for $300 to $400. The RV furnace and water heater are for thin thru the wall designs and somewhat noisy. The furnace ducting wouldn't be the same. You can buy a propane or elec 10 gallon residential water heater for $325 and a 500 watt 240 v baseboard electric unit is $35. If you had a small wood burner or fireplace it would use very little wood to heat the place. We are talking more like sticks compared to logs.

If a person wants to cut energy use, taxes, maintenance and initial cost to the bare minimum I think a TH is an excellent idea. I can see the tiny house as a very good way for a person to be far more comfortable than an RV but I dont really see much of an RV being any good for a tiny house.

Good luck to you in whatever you build.

This is for camping where there is no electricity.

The furnace is good and has no ducting. It only needs propane.
The stove is good.
Windows all are still good, an they have the second pane for winter.
Not sure on the hot water heater, or holding tanks.
Currently, the fridge does not work, but it might work again once I install a new thermocouple.
The toilet and other bathroom fixtures are gone.
Basically, the woodwork is all stating to rot away.

So you want to build exterior walls and roof mostly like a regular house,on a trailer chasis?
In your location you better use enough insulation if you plan camping in winter..

Still unclear what exactly he is trying to do - using RV appliances in tiny house on the ground, or building tiny house on RV frame (and salvaging whatever appliances still work).

The first plan is a so-so, because RV appliances are poorly made.

The second plan isn't much better, because RV floor plan is terrible to live in permanently, being long and narrow.

swimmer_spe wrote:

JaxDad wrote:
Can it be done? Sure.

Just don’t forget a ‘homemade’ camper or tiny house with plumbing, electric and propane systems won’t be legal anywhere but your own property and likely not even there.

I’ve built several over the years, mostly as deer camps on wheels kind of setups. The above folks are right, it’s VERY easy to get it waaaay overweight.

If you look up the videos on YouTube or such of the construction of a travel trailer you’ll see why they deteriorate or blow apart in a minor accident. Most of the ‘structures’ is 2” x 2” pine, the panelling and siding are structural elements.

The plan is, if I go with this, to have all those things that make it illegal to be rectified so it is legal.

For example, the propane and electrical will be inspected/done by a licensed person.

I am thinking of 2x2s for the structure. Then stick foam in the walls for insulation.

I'm thinking JaxDad was maybe referencing zoning rather than the construction as there are many tiny house builders that run into local zoning restrictions with a small house.

From your statement about the 2x2's and foam, it appears you're not aiming for the typical tiny house where energy efficiency and amenities are all de riguer. That entails at least 2x4 walls and more weight for the amenities.

FWIW, when I restored my old Starcraft which has 1 3/4" stud framing I used extruded foam board in the cavities. I also added in a 1/4" fanfold insulation board that covers the inside of the studs. I also have a 4 mil vapor barrier. Combined with the LOW-e residential slider windows, I can heat the trailer with a 1500 W heater from 25f ambient to 75f inside in a half hour. Trailer is 22' registered but is 19'6" from interior front to back.

Good luck on your project.

I just got back from my local trailer shop.

$125 for the propane certification, and I can install it.

I need to contact the ESA for the electrical, but it should be about $500 for the certification.

JaxDad wrote:
Can it be done? Sure.

Just don’t forget a ‘homemade’ camper or tiny house with plumbing, electric and propane systems won’t be legal anywhere but your own property and likely not even there.

I’ve built several over the years, mostly as deer camps on wheels kind of setups. The above folks are right, it’s VERY easy to get it waaaay overweight.

If you look up the videos on YouTube or such of the construction of a travel trailer you’ll see why they deteriorate or blow apart in a minor accident. Most of the ‘structures’ is 2” x 2” pine, the panelling and siding are structural elements.

The plan is, if I go with this, to have all those things that make it illegal to be rectified so it is legal.

For example, the propane and electrical will be inspected/done by a licensed person.

I am thinking of 2x2s for the structure. Then stick foam in the walls for insulation.

azrving wrote:
I take this to mean that you are building an actual tiny house on the ground or do you mean rebuild the RV?

It doesn't seem that the rv appliances would work well, RV windows are usually junk, the cabinets are not like residential and are built in place.

You can buy a much better fridge for $300 to $400. The RV furnace and water heater are for thin thru the wall designs and somewhat noisy. The furnace ducting wouldn't be the same. You can buy a propane or elec 10 gallon residential water heater for $325 and a 500 watt 240 v baseboard electric unit is $35. If you had a small wood burner or fireplace it would use very little wood to heat the place. We are talking more like sticks compared to logs.

If a person wants to cut energy use, taxes, maintenance and initial cost to the bare minimum I think a TH is an excellent idea. I can see the tiny house as a very good way for a person to be far more comfortable than an RV but I dont really see much of an RV being any good for a tiny house.

Good luck to you in whatever you build.

This is for camping where there is no electricity.

The furnace is good and has no ducting. It only needs propane.
The stove is good.
Windows all are still good, an they have the second pane for winter.

Not sure on the hot water heater, or holding tanks.

Currently, the fridge does not work, but it might work again once I install a new thermocouple.

The toilet and other bathroom fixtures are gone.

Basically, the woodwork is all stating to rot away.

newman fulltimer wrote:

donn0128 wrote:

swimmer_spe wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
I dont think you have a strong enough frame to build much of a tiny house.

It's a 1975 21 foot camper with tandem axles and a 2 5/16 hitch.

And single or dual axles? Axle capacity is what? 3500 pounds each. Can it be done? Sure, anything can be done. Will you possibly overload the frame/axles? Very possibly unless your extremely careful with weight of stuff.

If I was a betting person those axles are small seeing a 21' trailer average was under 4k so more like 2,500 lb and are probably half rotted by now

It has a registered weight of 2100kg. that is over 4600 lbs.