I've seen this before on other trailers, some of the "teardrop" forums I frequent show some BEAUTIFUL wood trailers that seem to do fine with a wood exterior. It would take some work of course, but if your in a situation where you are going to have to redo the exterior of your trailer - like the delamination issue I'm facing - it becomes an option. So of course I have questions. What kind of exterior wood is best? Also I imagine it would NOT be good to try and just put the wood over existing fiberglass, so what would be the best procedure for removing it from the existing paneling? Or just take the paneling off as well? Then of course there will be the decision whether to paint or or clearcoat the wood. I'm anxious to hear your thoughts!

Well, it would probably be best to use a wood like cedar or redwood (not very plentiful in your area), since it would have natural benefits that other soft-woods wouldn't have. Hardwood would probably add to much weight to the trailer, unless you were going with a veneer or very thin planking.It would be a shame to do all the work, to get the beauty of wood, and then paint it. (just my opinion)......so I'd go with either a stain or clear-coat.My guess (haven't done this before), would be that you would be stripping the sides off the RV. This has a benefit, in that you can use them as templates, if you are going with a veneer panel to replace it.Question: Have you considered taking the TT to a body shop, and asking them what they think about repairs to the fiberglass? You may find that you can get away with a good sanding, then a painting, with a clear-coat.May not be as "jazzy" as a wooden TT, but could probably be a whole lot easier, and cheaper (just how much to you really want to invest in this old TT???)Just my $0.02:)

kamperdog wrote:I've seen this before on other trailers, some of the "teardrop" forums I frequent show some BEAUTIFUL wood trailers that seem to do fine with a wood exterior. … snip …Then of course there will be the decision whether to paint or or clearcoat the wood. I'm anxious to hear your thoughts!First is your choice of woods. Use 'marine grade' plywood with a veneer covering.Finish it with a good stain in your choice of colors, followed by at least four coats of polyurethane marine varnish sanded with 600 grit waterproof paper between coats. Wet sanding prevents clogging the grit.

Wood paneling would probably add alot of weight to the trailer???I'd like to have a log cabin appearance - inside and outside hehe...

Thanks for the tips so far guys. I really like this idea. I imagine it won't be cheap. But its probably on par with taking it somewhere and having them "repair" the damaged section. I've heard horror stories that its never right afterward. I am thinking of taking it down to the nearby RV dealership and seeing what they say about it.

Wood on a teardrop is cute. Teardrops are cute. So it is a good fit, and the total cash in play is not that much.If you convert to wood siding you will have a very unique hybrid trailer. The problem with being totally unique is it kills your resale value. So, if plan on keeping this rig forever, or until it dies of natural causes, then go for it.On the other hand, if you think you will probably get something else in 3 to 5 years, and want some amount of residual value from your old trailer, look hard at your other options.Just my humble opinion.

Crazy idea here - re-surfacing EXTERIOR with wood?

JRS___B
Explorer
Jul 16, 2013
Just for grins, you might want to check out You Tube on these types of DIY projects.

There are some good ones on building a teardrop trailer out of wood. One guy appears to be building a teardrop trailer outdoors while staying at a campground in an RV.

On rebuilding old trailers, there seems to be a common theme. That is, people take on DIY rebuilds on MUCH OLDER trailers than yours (they have less to lose if the project fails). The goal seems to be to try an squeeze another 5 years out of trailer or to make it into a dear camp kind of rig.

I have to wonder if converting from fiberglass to aluminum would be doable, instead of wood.
btcruzer
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
Yep, that's crazy. I've seen sculptures made of ice which is probably about as durable as the wood idea. But do as you wish, none of my bidness.
BrianinMichigan
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
Pole barn siding sideways? Some places will run whatever length you want.
htowners
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
I doubt EIFS (Exterior Insulating Finish System)aka synthetic stucco would be a direction to go in.
It has to be installed properly, we had multiple buildings which used it and you could tell within 2-3 years the ones that had the "cheap labor" install.
I'm not sure it would stand up to the rigors of a trailer, unless it was permantly parked. Most fiberglass clad trailers are similar in concept to an EIFS structure in that it is a form of styro foam made strong with a substrate layer and then finished. Like a camper that has foam, then luan covered with a think fiberglass like cover.
As the outer layer is part of the entire structure, I don't see many other options. If you had a stick built with the aluminum siding, you could probably do what ever your wallet could handle.
Just my $.02 worth, wish I could add $.20 tax like the gov.
ecoast
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
from a former trawler owner, wood is a maintenance nightmare.

however, if you were to use 5/6 coats of sikkens cetol annually, and cover when not in use, you might have a looker there...
kamperdog
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
Well I just rode down to the big RV dealer near me (Driftwood RV) and they referred me the body shop they use for that kind of thing. I shot them an email describing the issue and will see what they say.
Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
In my opinion, it would be very expensive to side with any wood that's going to look good. Plywood, whether painted or stained, is going to look like exactly what it is. And in outdoor grades it's very heavy, as pointed out earlier. I can't even visualize how one would hang such sheets on the rig, to tell you the truth. And what to do about the seams-?

Even the (perhaps) cheapest/lightest/most rot resistant "lapped" siding solution, 1/4" redwood benderboard, will cost a minimum of thirty cents a foot or so...and since it's only four inches wide you'd have to have a lot of it. Means of attachment is a whole different question.
kamperdog
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
RayJayco wrote:
I don't believe that I would use wood as it has weight and absorbs water.

I haven't put much thought into it ...yet... however E.I.F.S. may be something to ponder...

Tell me more....
RayJayco
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
I don't believe that I would use wood as it has weight and absorbs water.

I haven't put much thought into it ...yet... however E.I.F.S. may be something to ponder...
kamperdog
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
I think it has... :(