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colliehauler's avatar
colliehauler
Explorer III
Apr 28, 2015

Did the LED replacement lights (round two update)

I changed out all the regular bulbs with 48 LED panels. I bought 7000k LED's and it was bright white. I took them all out and will order the warm white 4000k. When I had the regular bulbs lit up the converter fan would kick on they used so much power. Hope to avoid the heat as well.

I put the 7000k LED'S in a older trailer that had a dark interior and they don't seem to be as harsh. The older RV has blue interior and the colors don't seem as washed out with the 7000K LED's.

14 Replies

  • A word of warning here. LED's get a lot hooter then one would think. Stay away from cheap ones as they are a fire risk. We had some, 36 leds with only 4 current limiting resistors. The leds were encased in epoxey. After a few hours of use the resistors started over heating and smoking.

    SMD's are better as they usually have a thin aluminum heat sink in the board.
    If you go with the raised LED's look for a heat sink on one leg of each LED lead. We have one of this style that is 5 years old now. It was also $70 as a double with 72 LED's

    For us two 24 SMD bright white give plenty of light for reading and less heat then the 5 year old one.
  • colliehauler wrote:
    I changed out all the regular bulbs with 48 LED panels. I bought 7000k LED's and it was bright white. I took them all out and will order the warm white 4000k.


    4000K is hardly "warm white". Incandescent bulbs are in the 2600K to 2800K range, a "warm white" LED equivalent should be no colder than ~ 3200K if you want to avoid that "daylight" look. I swapped all my 921 incandescent bulbs with these equivalent 921 LED bulbs, sourced here.



    Each bulb has 24 5050 SMD chips rated at ~ 15 lumens apiece so they're nice and bright, relatively warm compared to the incandescent bulbs they replaced, and don't interfere with the radio. I've been using these for a year now and have had zero issues with any of them. JMO, but I sure wouldn't be using wafers that have to somehow be secured to the fixture as they'll eventually fall out of position, just as many who have used them have discovered.