Do I need an RV specific generator?

lots of us use Champion 3500 generators. They aren't terribly loud, inexpensive, and will run air.

Guysaker, I think you've seen the answer but I wanted to spell it out as a workflow. This is the same regarding what generator or air conditioner you buy.

If you want to use the AC you have to start the generator, then turn on the air conditioning. The generator will stay running the entire time the air conditioner is turned on. The air conditioner itself might cycle on and off, but the generator has to stay running the entire time.

As for the Honda eu2000i and 3000i they have an economy switch (eco throttle) that when the air conditioner cycles off the generator will return to idle. This will save fuel and noise. When the air conditioner turns on again the generator will rev up to meet the demand.

At least this should work for your suggested small AC unit. A larger unit such as a 13.5k rooftop would require the generator to run full throttle all the time. If you buy a cheap generator they all typically run full throttle the entire time they are on, and will be quite a bit louder than the Honda/Yamaha.

Guysakar wrote:

westend wrote:
If I was planning on cooling a 10-16 ft. WELL insulated box van, I'd use an AC with the lowest power draw, a 5K or 6K unit. I have an 8K unit in a tent trailer and it will freeze you out in the summer in the Midwest. I ran it at night for comfortable sleeping and would turn it off during the wee hours. With a lower power draw, you'd be entering the realm of solar power use for that and the money not spent on a generator could be spent on solar, inverter, and batteries.

You think I could get away with solar on a 5K BTU and get away with a 5K BTU in a 16 ft box van? I'm definitely going to insulate (going to try and find something not too thick as I'm working with limited room as it is; if anyone has any ideas).

Solar sounds really nice, but when available, I'm going to be parking in heavily wooded areas.

The only other thing I'm really going to be running is possibly a propane fridge, but I'm not even 100% sure on that. I'll have a laptop, phone, etc... but I'm not concerned about those at all. I have to go into town 4 times a week or so to access high speed wifi for work anyway, so I'll charge up then.



What I'm not liking is...I was assuming that for every hour of AC I would only need to run the generator for about 30-45 minutes, but it is looking like it is common place to just leave the gen running the entire time.

I wonder how bad that would be, if I had a remote start, to turn the gen on and off a couple/few times an hour.



The Honda 2k says it uses about 1/4 gallon an hour under half load. So if the AC is off and gen is running, I wonder if that is still going to be about 1/4 gallon an hour?

Edit. OK, it says that it (Honda 2k) runs 4 - 9.6 hours in a single tank, so I assume that when the AC is running, 1/4 gallon per hour or so, and when AC kicks off, 1/8 per gallon or so. So if AC runs for 30 minutes an hour, that would be 1/5-1/6 a gallon an hour.

Yeah, most RV users that have generators and use AC, run them non-stop.

The van body or straight truck build is something that interests me, mostly from the chassis' available. If I was proceeding and had a healthy budget, I'd be aiming for one of the newer Sprinter type chassis' because of the potential fuel savings. Using my past mantra's (cheap), choice might revolve around 1 ton chassis. FWIW, they recycle ambulances at low mileage points and they have a kick-a** alternator with, usually, battery isolators and a heavy duty electrical scheme.

About the insulation: I would use 2" foam board, sealing over and offering thermal break from any of the steel box. With 2' board, as opposed to 1", you are only giving up an inch on each side and the comfort/economy involved is worth the space.

I have that 8K AC mounted on the forward wall of the popup, directly over the tongue. It is in the path of road debris and needs to be cleaned every few years. I'd put a screen over the vent openings if I was going to do a lot of off-road travel.

Just one caveat about truck conversions: If you are buying all the appliances, fixtures, and rest new, allow for a hefty budget. It is surprising how much $$$ one can throw at the mechanical systems to get everything right.

Honda or Yamaha generators lead the pack for RV use, with Champion coming in a close third. It is about decibel level and economy of use.

FWIW, I installed solar, batteries, and an inverter to keep the 120v dorm fridge powered when boondocking. If using solar for AC, there will be considerable expense and installation but no generator noise. If you always park in the shade, a generator is probably a good choice. You may want to check RV salvage vendors for an RV, roof mounted AC.

The AC unit sticks out of my sidewall about 4". Many cargo trailers are narrower than 8' but even 8'4" is within the legal limit of 8'6". Since most cargo trailers have the tires/fenders outside the cargo box, the AC unit will stick out less than the fenders. I have only met one person that ever suffered damage of the sidewall AC unit. They hit a pole in a parking lot.

Window AC unit - $150
small cube heater - $25

compare that to a roof top heat pump at $650

Factor in also that the window AC unit can operate from a single small portable generator. Not so with the roof top unit. That is a savings of another $500 - $1,000 for a second generator.

Options are a wonderful thing.

beemerphile1 wrote:

Matt_Colie wrote:

...Window air conditioners are a poor application in an RV because the have to protrude through the structure to get effective air flow. This means that to install in a side, they have to be withdrawn for travel....

Not true, some manufacturers including Aliner use window units from the factory. A cover can be made or purchased to cover the unit while traveling but many simply don't bother. Look closely at my signature picture, the AC unit is forward of the door.

Guysakar, I power my 5,000 BTU window shaker with a little Harbor Freight 800/900 watt generator. The Honda is much quieter though and better quality.

Beemer,

The Alines I have seen have the A/C protruding from the side when parked, but if not withdrawn during travel, are very damage prone (bugs being the least of the problem). Guy is planning to work with a cube van as a start. They are all at least 8' wide so there is no room to leave it protruding when underway without risk. They can be inside, but as they require large areas on both side for condenser air intake, this will kill a lot of his interior volume. If he elects to install it condenser forward, he will take damage from bugs and road debris that the unit was not designed to accommodate. He could add such accommodation, but he isn't through examining is options yet.

In his case, the suggestion of a heat pump roof top unit makes even more sense if he plans to heat - ever.

Matt

AS DETAILED in previous posts, you assume a lot of things that are wrong

1.. A/C does not turn the generator on off
2.. generator does not turn on..off multiple times per hour

Batteries are the major source of power
Genset is used for the big items mw a/c coffee pot etc..and stays on until done
Genset is also used to charge the batteries
If there is an auto start, it is usually triggered by battery charge level

Guysakar wrote:
I am considering building my own rig (a 10-16 foot box van)and just trying to factor some costs.

I see highly rated generators on Amazon, etc... for a few/several hundred dollars.

I am going to be running the AC frequently in the summer, and I assume the generator will be off and on many times during the day. I assume likely multiple times per hour? I assume most RV's have the generator kick on and off with the AC.

So I am wondering if something like this Amazon Link will suffice.

If not, is my only option to shell out thousands for an Onan? The AC unit I am considering is 8K BTU, maybe more depending on size of box van I choose. The only thing the gen will be running will be AC, heat, and for charging battery.

Is there a cheaper option? I know I could go used, but those Onans are still well over a grand used and I would prefer new.



Also, I have been researching battery charging times, etc... I assume most rigs are set up to charge the battery every time the gen kicks on. Will these short duration times (while powering AC multiple times an hour) be harmful to my batteries?



Additional question if anyone is up for it: I am looking to just get an A/C AC wall unit. Is that recommended or should I be looking for something specifically for an RV as well?


Thank you very much in advance for any help.

Matt_Colie wrote:

...Window air conditioners are a poor application in an RV because the have to protrude through the structure to get effective air flow. This means that to install in a side, they have to be withdrawn for travel....

Not true, some manufacturers including Aliner use window units from the factory. A cover can be made or purchased to cover the unit while traveling but many simply don't bother. Look closely at my signature picture, the AC unit is forward of the door.

Guysakar, I power my 5,000 BTU window shaker with a little Harbor Freight 800/900 watt generator. The Honda is much quieter though and better quality.

Hi,

Since you plan to heat electrically, too, a roof top unit that is a heat pump might be worth considering.

The cost to add the amenities most people want in a an RV they expect to spend very much time in will be higher than buying a used RV.

If you are just looking at some weekend camping with little in the way of the things that make an RV self sufficient you might be better off with a pop up tent trailer.

Some of the things to be added are: Sinks,toilet, refrigerator, furnace, water heater, waste tanks and drain valves, fresh water tank and pump, house batteries, converter to charge them and supply DC power for lights and appliance control boards, propane tank and plumbing.

westend wrote:
If I was planning on cooling a 10-16 ft. WELL insulated box van, I'd use an AC with the lowest power draw, a 5K or 6K unit. I have an 8K unit in a tent trailer and it will freeze you out in the summer in the Midwest. I ran it at night for comfortable sleeping and would turn it off during the wee hours. With a lower power draw, you'd be entering the realm of solar power use for that and the money not spent on a generator could be spent on solar, inverter, and batteries.

You think I could get away with solar on a 5K BTU and get away with a 5K BTU in a 16 ft box van? I'm definitely going to insulate (going to try and find something not too thick as I'm working with limited room as it is; if anyone has any ideas).

Solar sounds really nice, but when available, I'm going to be parking in heavily wooded areas.

The only other thing I'm really going to be running is possibly a propane fridge, but I'm not even 100% sure on that. I'll have a laptop, phone, etc... but I'm not concerned about those at all. I have to go into town 4 times a week or so to access high speed wifi for work anyway, so I'll charge up then.



What I'm not liking is...I was assuming that for every hour of AC I would only need to run the generator for about 30-45 minutes, but it is looking like it is common place to just leave the gen running the entire time.

I wonder how bad that would be, if I had a remote start, to turn the gen on and off a couple/few times an hour.



The Honda 2k says it uses about 1/4 gallon an hour under half load. So if the AC is off and gen is running, I wonder if that is still going to be about 1/4 gallon an hour?

Edit. OK, it says that it (Honda 2k) runs 4 - 9.6 hours in a single tank, so I assume that when the AC is running, 1/4 gallon per hour or so, and when AC kicks off, 1/8 per gallon or so. So if AC runs for 30 minutes an hour, that would be 1/5-1/6 a gallon an hour.