I enclosed the underbelly of our 32' Copper Canyon using 4'X8' sheets of Corplast and the foil Mylar bubble wrap, it was a bit of work, but worth it. Paid about $11 ea. for the corplast at a local plastics dealer.
My thoughts below.
Old-Biscuit wrote:
1) Self tapping screws (same way 10000's of enclosed underbellies are secured at factory)
I used self drilling tapping hex head machine screws. Drove in with battery operated drill.
2)EnternaBond Tape....Gorilla Tape as second choice
I used Gorilla tape, works GREAT, and can be removed if needed.
3)Flat Aluminum bars OR just overlap the coroplast sheets at seams
When we enclosed our 32' 5er, the 4' sheet didn't match frame cross members, so my choice was to use metal studs. Easy to cut and bend, and held the screws ok, just need a low clutch setting on the drill.
4)Insulation & coroplast attached to each other makes it easier to work with when installing/removing
I would use spray adhesive or construction adhesive.
****5) Heat Tape????
Check RV Furnace discharge plenum for unused cut out...install a new duct and run it into underbelly area for HEAT source.
We had tank heating pads.:)
We exclusively use our fresh water tank/pump regardless if at FHU CG or Boondocking.
No need for heat tape etc. RV Furnace has maintained temps above freezing in our underbelly even when temps were -19*F
